Reliability and simplicity build, electric P/S & A/C compressor

The Nissan 300ZX (Z32) general community discussion forum
Roman1
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Sep 22, 2019 8:26 am
Car: 1989 Z32 2+0 Turbo

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New guy here. 1989 JDM RHD Z32 TT 2+0 in Trinidad.

Have had vehicle for about 12 years and have now embarked on a reliability and simplification build for my Z due to the inherent access issues we know and "love" about our cars. Vehicle is currently being gutted and shall list current and future works/mods below. Any thoughts or advise would be appreciated.

JDM Right hand drive Z32 2+0 A/T. T-TOP. Started out as NA but is now TT. (No Hicas)
Custom one piece aluminum balanced drive shaft from Driveshaft Shop. Required a custom unit since i maintained the NA differential which has a different bolt pattern and size to the TT.

Works below were done 12 years ago. Very short list. Is my first Z and at the time did not really know all the ins and outs.
Glowshift gauges
Full energy suspension bushing kit.
Stoptech rotors and pads all around.
Greddy high performance timing belt
all belts, water pump etc changed
Tomei 320KPH Z32 gauge cluster.
new fuel pump (old one was rotten due to age)
18 inch staggered rims
Changed to FMIC (did not realize the SMICS are better unless doing huge boost.
Full body job etc etc.


The current build below will be much more intensive specifically designed to make the vehicle much more reliable, simple to work on by creating engine bay room and neater in the engine bay. Works listed below.

Battery relocation to trunk with all required venting.

Trunk area will most likely be isolated from the cabin area using 3/4 inch lexan due to the items being installed in the area. Again trunk most likely will be force ventilated. with a small high cfm 12V fan.

Swapping out the mechanical belt driven power steering pump to a hydro electric Power steering pump. this would crate space as belt driven pump and associated piping would be removed. most likely from a 2000-2005 MR2 spyder since the steering ECU for it is on board the pump speed sensor can be wired in to remove P/S pressure at higher speeds. This unit "might" be relocated to the trunk but may be placed where the battery used to be.

Removing belt driven A/C compressor for either a pro air 3 speed 12V electric A/C compressor or a Jegs unit. this may also go in trunk or where the battery used to be. this gets rid of the belt driven compressor and piping and creates more room in the bay.

Belt driven radiator fan being changed for an electronic unit.

Swapping to an electric Water pump from CZP so the only belts the motor will have is the timing and alternator.

Alternator swapping to 200A CZP unit to run the increased electrical load.

ESS racing paddle shift kit for A/T transmission. (this is just for the fun of it)

Motor only has 45000 miles on it so am not opening it up but shall change all seals on motor and tranny.

All plenum deletes to be done including EGR, throttle water lines, etc.

Researching PCV and AIV deletes

Would love to delete AICV etc but am still researching if can be done properly.

Cabin heater to be deleted. (no snow in the tropics)

Basic cable tucks to be done.

New engine harness by wiring specialties to be installed. (old one brittle and corroded)

Relocation of igniter to be done and conversion to new model unit.

Rebuild steering rack with new seals.

Selin dual MAF intake

Reverting to CZP side mount intercoolers.

Larger oil cooler and possible external transmission oil cooler. ( Still in debate but the paddle shift kit is suggested to be used with larger transmission oil cooler)

All new fuel injectors, coil packs etc.

All new belts, thermostat etc.

All new hoses. Everything, water, vacuum, P/S A/C. brake rubber lines etc..

Vacuum line bridge units to be used to avoid the myriad of tubes everywhere.

Debating a CZP brake booster delete with the wilwood master cylinder but am still researching how this affects drive-ability.

Manual boost controller for minor boost gain up to 15lbs or so max on stock turbos.

Tein coilovers since original unit are 30 years old.

Long and short is i would prefer to not have to remove the motor for a long long time and would like as much access as possible to get at things if needed without motor removal.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

That's what i can remember for now! Wish me luck!

Thanks
Roman1.


97 fairlady z
Posts: 49
Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2016 9:52 pm
Car: 97 Fairlady 300ZX RHD from Japan

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Wow good luck, pictures?


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