Reebuild question help

[aaronscomp]

Ok i have a ka24de with 65,000 original miles on it. the rings are bad because of boost i was wondering if i had to get the rings and new bearings machined or can i get buy without machine work. There no lip on the walls like this motor is clean it just has bad rings.

[Cone Junky]

If the rings are "bad" after 65K, I would seriously look into further diagnoses/machining. That is way too soon for wear and you could only expect the same or worse results if put in the same situation (boost).

[aaronscomp]

well the wastegate got messrd up and it was over boosting and before i new boom im going to run it na after the rebuild so i highly doubt it will happen again

[tyrodtom]

If the bearing journals and cylinder walls mike out straight,and close to dimensions, then you can get by without any machine work. but the new rings will never seat if you don't at least have the cylinder walls honed.

[aaronscomp]

o alright sunds good do they justhave to have the same measure ments or really close anyways

[liquid_cool]

If the bearing journals and cylinder walls mike out straight,and close to dimensions, then you can get by without any machine work. but the new rings will never seat if you don't at least have the cylinder walls honed.

this is correct...i sugest you read the book by S/A...."How to Blue Print An Engine"

this will give you a better understanding of whats and why's for NA and boosted power..you will refer to it often..

you can qwick hone once you double check your tolorances..(the book will show you how)...after you check, and if everything is cool...then you need to remember to have a crossed hatch'd pattern thats 35deg. to 45deg. from the level of the deck...allot of guys hone to make the lines from honing strait in the cylinder walls...when you do this..the rings dont spin properly and dont break in and seal properly..hence ..loss of power to to lack of proper seal...if you cross hatch lines as you hone..it helps the ring to spin and break in faster creating a better seal..its the proper way..hard to explain without pic instructions....

to do this....you slow...slow the rotation or your drill or machine...but you go faster in and out of the cylinder...after a few try's...you will get the hang of it...the book says use a ball style hone..but you can use the bar type allso..it actually works better (IMO) for this...

good luck