Redline ATF vs Mobil 1 ATF
Re: (PoorManQ45)
uh,AMSOIL is SYNTHETIC oil,and as far as 10-20000 oil changes coming out as chunks with synthetic,tell that to the engineers who specify these long drain intervals on synthetic oil,such as porsche,bmw,mercedes-benz,& VW.
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elwesso
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Re: (qship96)
Listen, I would close this thread but I simply refuse to close my own thread. I think everyone will see who is wrong, and who is right, and make their decision upon the evidence....
Quote » I have to call BS again. My father had a 351W in a Fastback 'stang that he had for ~160k miles. He used nothing but AmsOil Motor Oil in it from the day he built it. He tore it down after 100k miles and rebuilt it. He was saying to me how clean everything in the engine was. Almost like new. He had a 4500~6000 mile Oil Change interval[/quote]Yes, a superior oil like amsoil, will outperform even the worst synthetics... but saying that a high quailty dino or BLEND will pe equal or outperform a high quailty synthetic (ATF or oil, doesnt matter now) is simply ignorant and ludacris....
Your also using a stacked example.. A high quailty dino will go along way, espcially if the car is used on longer trips (always gets up to operating temperature) and use high quailty filters. Also, the engine is lower mileage, so theres less blowby than on most of our higher mileage engines... Less blowby=less diry oil, and ultimately engine.... Have you maybe considered thats why this person had to rebuild the engine at 100k? or is that just from poor engineering!
I can *assure* you, and Id bet my Q45, that if you took a VH45DE, brand new, and we ran equal EVERYTHING, running a high quality dino (your choice, castrol GTX is a good dino), and a high quality synthetic (redline, amsoil, M1) that at least the one on synthetic would be less worn... Probably cleaner too, but thats up to speculation I think.... Consider Gregs 95 Q. At 107k (or whenever it was torn down), LOOK AT THE PICS... They spec'd the cam lobes, and there is NO WEAR. They are AS NEW specs, you could take them out, put them in a box, and resell them as new.... Tell me your dino will do that!!!!!
Quote » I have to call BS again. My father had a 351W in a Fastback 'stang that he had for ~160k miles. He used nothing but AmsOil Motor Oil in it from the day he built it. He tore it down after 100k miles and rebuilt it. He was saying to me how clean everything in the engine was. Almost like new. He had a 4500~6000 mile Oil Change interval[/quote]Yes, a superior oil like amsoil, will outperform even the worst synthetics... but saying that a high quailty dino or BLEND will pe equal or outperform a high quailty synthetic (ATF or oil, doesnt matter now) is simply ignorant and ludacris....
Your also using a stacked example.. A high quailty dino will go along way, espcially if the car is used on longer trips (always gets up to operating temperature) and use high quailty filters. Also, the engine is lower mileage, so theres less blowby than on most of our higher mileage engines... Less blowby=less diry oil, and ultimately engine.... Have you maybe considered thats why this person had to rebuild the engine at 100k? or is that just from poor engineering!
I can *assure* you, and Id bet my Q45, that if you took a VH45DE, brand new, and we ran equal EVERYTHING, running a high quality dino (your choice, castrol GTX is a good dino), and a high quality synthetic (redline, amsoil, M1) that at least the one on synthetic would be less worn... Probably cleaner too, but thats up to speculation I think.... Consider Gregs 95 Q. At 107k (or whenever it was torn down), LOOK AT THE PICS... They spec'd the cam lobes, and there is NO WEAR. They are AS NEW specs, you could take them out, put them in a box, and resell them as new.... Tell me your dino will do that!!!!!
elwesso wrote:Quote, originally posted by elwesso »
The reason we use sythetic fluids is because they keep our engine and transmission cleaner, and they last longer....
DO you realize you just proved my point with your post! It does not break down as quickly, THUS It does not varnish as easy, THUS it leaves it cleaner....PMQ wrote: Wrong The reason you should use Synthetic oil is because it does not break down as quickly as Standard Motor Oil.
Please dont tell me your serious! "oh it looks just as good, and its about as thick, so dino is just as good as synthetic"... Come on man, I know your smarter than that.... Get an oil analysis done!! Blackstone labs does them for $20 and they send the test kits free.. Im getting one!PMQ wrote: I've done that. They came out of the pan looking the same. There was no noticable difference in color and/or viscosity.
Go ahead, get your cheap fluids... Remember we are deailing with an INFINITI Q45.. A FLAGSHIP SEDAN! 50k new.... This isnt a honda! But I have a well maintained Q45, and I intend on keeping it for a long time....
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texasoil
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People let their emotions and 'legends' get in the way of scientific fact. PROPERLY formulated , high quality conventional engine oil, changed at 3000 mile intervals, will protect against wear, varnish and sludge in normal operation completely equivalent to the heavily advertised 'synthetic' engine oil. Many (most all) NASCAR and INDY racing engines run conventional engine oils. I guarantee you if synthetics offered either a power performance advantage, or better protection against lubricant related engine failure, ALL the racers would run the 'best' synthetic. --But they don't!! 'CHEAP' oil, whether 'synthetic' or 'conventional' is very unlikely to afford good wear or varnish/sldge protection. The additive package costs far more than the difference in cost of the base oil. Scrimping on the additive package to 'just pass' the certification tests is the way the cheapo's do it.
Buy good oil and filters, change them regularly, and buy good gasoline and good fuel filters. Lube oil is one of the lowest cost parts of an automobile maintenance program.
And THERE IS a BIG difference between group 2,3, & 5 manual transmission/rear axle lubricants! Use a group 2 in a group 5 requirement and the gears will disappear in short order from extreme scuffing. Use a group 5 in a group 2 unit and critical thrust bearings will corrode away in short order.
Buy good oil and filters, change them regularly, and buy good gasoline and good fuel filters. Lube oil is one of the lowest cost parts of an automobile maintenance program.
And THERE IS a BIG difference between group 2,3, & 5 manual transmission/rear axle lubricants! Use a group 2 in a group 5 requirement and the gears will disappear in short order from extreme scuffing. Use a group 5 in a group 2 unit and critical thrust bearings will corrode away in short order.
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PoorManQ45
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Re: (texasoil)
texasoil wrote:People let their emotions and 'legends' get in the way of scientific fact. PROPERLY formulated , high quality conventional engine oil, changed at 3000 mile intervals, will protect against wear, varnish and sludge in normal operation completely equivalent to the heavily advertised 'synthetic' engine oil. Many (most all) NASCAR and INDY racing engines run conventional engine oils. I guarantee you if synthetics offered either a power performance advantage, or better protection against lubricant related engine failure, ALL the racers would run the 'best' synthetic. --But they don't!! 'CHEAP' oil, whether 'synthetic' or 'conventional' is very unlikely to afford good wear or varnish/sldge protection. The additive package costs far more than the difference in cost of the base oil. Scrimping on the additive package to 'just pass' the certification tests is the way the cheapo's do it.
That gets the double werd.