red top
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farm240sxboy
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Tue Jul 30, 2002 3:44 pm
red top
Hey guys I'm kind of excited, I jsut found that there is a guy like a mile away from my house that imports from Japan. I went there and he had a black top from a silvia with an auto transmission, but he said that he had a manuel trans to go with it. and he had a red top from a 180sx already removed from the front clip but with everything included. 2500 each. Do you guys know if the ecu or wiring is anydifferent for the auto transmission? Like if the ecu controlls it at all? I was jsut wondering if it would be extra wireing to get that frony clip? It was cool though it was my first viewing of a sr20. He had a Skyline front clip and lots of honda stuff too. I've acually worked on his car at the Honda dealer I work at.
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Nismo_Freak
- Posts: 10314
- Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 10:42 pm
- Car: 89 Nissan 240SX
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sr20meplease
- Posts: 178
- Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2002 1:06 pm
- Car: cars
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Nismo_Freak
- Posts: 10314
- Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 10:42 pm
- Car: 89 Nissan 240SX
the biggest problem from getting they motors form Dauntless, HT or unstable-hybridz is that they are located in the midwest/ east coast. Shipping be expensive ($500-700?). I want a front clip, not just the engine and transmission (and associated parts). So, if I can find a place locally that imports the clips, that's where I'm going. I'd also prefer looking at a selection of clips and pick what I think is the best or at least look at the clip before I purchase it.
We are in Washington State, not D.C. (make sure no mix-ups)
We are in Washington State, not D.C. (make sure no mix-ups)
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Daunttless
- Posts: 3890
- Joined: Sun May 12, 2002 7:20 am
actually shipping from me won't be any higher than 300 dollars, probably closer to 200-250. Unfortunately, I don't deal in frontclips. : ) However, my engines are guaranteed complete with everything, which makes them no different than a front clip without the wasted weight of a frame. May I ask why you want a front clip?
: )
: )
dauntless, its nothing against you. I see from the board that you're a great guy. Very informative, cool-headed, all around great guy. I know that if I lived in Iowa or a neighboring state that I'd buy from you.
But here's my reasonings for the clip.....
1) you get all the bolts/nuts/clips/antivibration studs2) Its a lot easier to reassemble the parts into your car if you've taken out all of the clip yourself (I'll be doing the swap myself) and its easier to make sure I'll use the right bolt (or whatever) in the right place.3) almost guranteed that the oil pan isn't smashed (in shipping or anything) or any other parts of the engine.4) less chance of the having cut wiring. I've heard that wires are run up into the dash that are normally cut (3-4 wires for speedo, i think). I prefer it not to be. Not a must. Just one of my quirks.5) some spare parts afterwards, never know what'll be broken or will break or needs to be changed on my car.6) I should know what the exact "mileage" of the engine. It should come with the instrument cluster.7) I'll have a JDM tach with 7500 redline, i don't have to go to ebay to buy one.8) the car I'm buying is a 91. Its an auto, not a stick. So I'll need to do a 5-spd conversion in the process of swapping motors. I don't know how complete the trannies from you or any one else will be. (you know bezels, stick itself, shift knob, transmission crossmemeber, mounts, whatever else.)
that's all i think. Concerning reasons 1 and 2. It wouldn't bother me as much if I'm familiar with the car. IE my current car. You could literally disassemble my Mazda and scatter the piece in a stadium, lets say and I can put it back together. I've had 3 of those cars and have put in a engine or did major work on each. After going through all that work, I have lots of spare nuts/bolts/whatever. Now take the 240. I know probably 10-20% about the car itself (its sitting in a garage 30 miles away and I don't have the key to the house or the car). How its put together, 5%. If you disassembled it and scattered it, I doubt it would be put together 100% correctly and I'd have a real hard time do it. I remember how to do thing much better when I do it myself. Although Im sure I can do it without taking it part, it just takes time, time that I will not have (when the swap comes around, i'll have to have the car back together in a week at the max. I can't keep the car in the garage disabled forever either.)
I think HT said for a clip it would have been $500ish, but regardless, even if its $250 to get all the parts from you, that's $250 extra that could be used for the exhaust or guages or getting S14 seats or tires or towards a LSD. $250 vs $40 for a flatbed trailer (my dad has a suburban and I can tow)
I understand quality parts cost extra money. I get a gurantee for initial startup, engine looks clean. I'm a poor guy. I'm in college. I'll cut corners and take a chance. I'm pretty confident on fixing cars, as I;ve done for others and myself. I've never taken my car into a dealer or repair shop. If the engine knocks, has low compression, or something, I can b**** at the guy, in person, that sold it to me. Over the internet and phone, its harder to do. If all else fails I can stick the KA back in and rebuild the "dead" motor to different specs.
long post sorry, but one other reason, it that I was wondering how easy it would be to do a LHD to RHD conversion. Looking at the clip and having the parts to do it would be nice.
I'm not buying the stuff anytime soon, I'm just collecting info right now. After I sell my three cars (should be by next year), I'll have close to $7000 to spend. Not to mention cheaper insurance. I still don't know if I want a SR or a CA. Thus far I'm pretty impressed with the CA....but SR is sooo well known and aftermarket parts seem to be more abundant.
*edit*buying locally has another advantage. If what i want is in stock, I hand over the cash and get it that day. Any other case, I'd have to wait a week or two.
But here's my reasonings for the clip.....
1) you get all the bolts/nuts/clips/antivibration studs2) Its a lot easier to reassemble the parts into your car if you've taken out all of the clip yourself (I'll be doing the swap myself) and its easier to make sure I'll use the right bolt (or whatever) in the right place.3) almost guranteed that the oil pan isn't smashed (in shipping or anything) or any other parts of the engine.4) less chance of the having cut wiring. I've heard that wires are run up into the dash that are normally cut (3-4 wires for speedo, i think). I prefer it not to be. Not a must. Just one of my quirks.5) some spare parts afterwards, never know what'll be broken or will break or needs to be changed on my car.6) I should know what the exact "mileage" of the engine. It should come with the instrument cluster.7) I'll have a JDM tach with 7500 redline, i don't have to go to ebay to buy one.8) the car I'm buying is a 91. Its an auto, not a stick. So I'll need to do a 5-spd conversion in the process of swapping motors. I don't know how complete the trannies from you or any one else will be. (you know bezels, stick itself, shift knob, transmission crossmemeber, mounts, whatever else.)
that's all i think. Concerning reasons 1 and 2. It wouldn't bother me as much if I'm familiar with the car. IE my current car. You could literally disassemble my Mazda and scatter the piece in a stadium, lets say and I can put it back together. I've had 3 of those cars and have put in a engine or did major work on each. After going through all that work, I have lots of spare nuts/bolts/whatever. Now take the 240. I know probably 10-20% about the car itself (its sitting in a garage 30 miles away and I don't have the key to the house or the car). How its put together, 5%. If you disassembled it and scattered it, I doubt it would be put together 100% correctly and I'd have a real hard time do it. I remember how to do thing much better when I do it myself. Although Im sure I can do it without taking it part, it just takes time, time that I will not have (when the swap comes around, i'll have to have the car back together in a week at the max. I can't keep the car in the garage disabled forever either.)
I think HT said for a clip it would have been $500ish, but regardless, even if its $250 to get all the parts from you, that's $250 extra that could be used for the exhaust or guages or getting S14 seats or tires or towards a LSD. $250 vs $40 for a flatbed trailer (my dad has a suburban and I can tow)
I understand quality parts cost extra money. I get a gurantee for initial startup, engine looks clean. I'm a poor guy. I'm in college. I'll cut corners and take a chance. I'm pretty confident on fixing cars, as I;ve done for others and myself. I've never taken my car into a dealer or repair shop. If the engine knocks, has low compression, or something, I can b**** at the guy, in person, that sold it to me. Over the internet and phone, its harder to do. If all else fails I can stick the KA back in and rebuild the "dead" motor to different specs.
long post sorry, but one other reason, it that I was wondering how easy it would be to do a LHD to RHD conversion. Looking at the clip and having the parts to do it would be nice.
I'm not buying the stuff anytime soon, I'm just collecting info right now. After I sell my three cars (should be by next year), I'll have close to $7000 to spend. Not to mention cheaper insurance. I still don't know if I want a SR or a CA. Thus far I'm pretty impressed with the CA....but SR is sooo well known and aftermarket parts seem to be more abundant.
*edit*buying locally has another advantage. If what i want is in stock, I hand over the cash and get it that day. Any other case, I'd have to wait a week or two.
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SpeedRacer1
- Posts: 3144
- Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2002 7:44 pm
- Car: 1990 240SX, G35
I do know that if you install an Auto SR into a manual chassis and use the auto engine wiring harness you will have alot of sensors and other parts that are unplugged. The Throttle position sensor also has some problems going from a manual onto an auto wiring harness, not that it matters to you because you dont live in an emission regulated county like me (king county). So you dont even need the TPS.
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Daunttless
- Posts: 3890
- Joined: Sun May 12, 2002 7:20 am
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CiscoKidRB
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 3:39 pm
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Daunttless
- Posts: 3890
- Joined: Sun May 12, 2002 7:20 am
Well, I've read thru your post, and you have very valid points, the only thing that I can point out to you is...
1) No argument. : )2) No argument.3) I guarantee my oil pan won't be smashed. : )4) Whil you can remove them from the front clip, it'd probably be easier to cut them anyways.5) A lot of these cars have sat for a long time, no matter who you buy them through, and little pieces aren't there a lot of times, also, due to the nature of frontclips sometimes little parts are missing anyways, that were stripped by someone before it became a clip, its harder to check when its still in the car.6) If its important to you, I can get the exact "mileage" of the engine with the compression papers.7) If you want a Silvia Cluster, I can get one thrown in for no charge with enough notice to put it in my next shipment.8) It comes with the stick, you'll need the swap parts out of a normal 240SX as well though. : (
As far as the 250 from me that could be used for other stuff, lets count it out. : )
Heavythrottle Front Clip + Shipping = 2650 + 500 = 3150Me Engine + shipping = 2200 + 250 = 2450, maybe 2500.Savings with me = 650 dollars. : )Cost of other parts that you'd get with the frontclip = Under 100.Total Savings = around 500.
If you did the RHD conversion, the front clip would be the way to go, I can't do anything about that.
Also, as far as bitching at the guy, Heavy throttle is even farther away than me....
Thats it, anything I'm missing? : )
1) No argument. : )2) No argument.3) I guarantee my oil pan won't be smashed. : )4) Whil you can remove them from the front clip, it'd probably be easier to cut them anyways.5) A lot of these cars have sat for a long time, no matter who you buy them through, and little pieces aren't there a lot of times, also, due to the nature of frontclips sometimes little parts are missing anyways, that were stripped by someone before it became a clip, its harder to check when its still in the car.6) If its important to you, I can get the exact "mileage" of the engine with the compression papers.7) If you want a Silvia Cluster, I can get one thrown in for no charge with enough notice to put it in my next shipment.8) It comes with the stick, you'll need the swap parts out of a normal 240SX as well though. : (
As far as the 250 from me that could be used for other stuff, lets count it out. : )
Heavythrottle Front Clip + Shipping = 2650 + 500 = 3150Me Engine + shipping = 2200 + 250 = 2450, maybe 2500.Savings with me = 650 dollars. : )Cost of other parts that you'd get with the frontclip = Under 100.Total Savings = around 500.
If you did the RHD conversion, the front clip would be the way to go, I can't do anything about that.
Also, as far as bitching at the guy, Heavy throttle is even farther away than me....
Thats it, anything I'm missing? : )
But using Farmboy's quote from the local guy, it was $2500...before tax and flatbed. I didn't think about it until now.
2500+(2500/8.5) + 40 = $2835
So a savings of $335, if i buy from you.
let's say i for go the RHD thing (dunno if its even possible to do a RHD easily anyway). You are cheaper even with shipping, seem pretty trustworthy, and would seem to offer great customer service. Financially speaking you have the upper-hand (a very good thing, as I said I can't be frugal with funds). What I'm really concerned with at the moment is all the bolts, nuts that I'll need. Will anything come with the engine? or will I need to source the stuff I need through a hardware store? How many more bolts/nuts does the SR or CA have than the KA? just a few or a bucket load?
For clarification, what you are selling is a complete swap (SMIC, IC piping, engine accesories, ecu harness, etc), right? I don't need anything else to do the swap and make it run?
also to be honest bitching at you for a crapped out engine doesn't sounds like something that will happen.
You don't happen to do leak-down tests instead of compression tests do you?
Also is there any gurantee on the transmission itself? What if the synchros are out or the transmission is stuffed? Would I get a replacement?
i couldn't believe there isn't a whole lot more bolts required for the swap and I can save myself $300+ bucks going through you, so I think I'll buy from you. RHD would be cool (lived in Japan for a long time), but I should be practical...for now.
Probably, if all goes well, I'll order in Spring of next year.
thanks for the post!
2500+(2500/8.5) + 40 = $2835
So a savings of $335, if i buy from you.
let's say i for go the RHD thing (dunno if its even possible to do a RHD easily anyway). You are cheaper even with shipping, seem pretty trustworthy, and would seem to offer great customer service. Financially speaking you have the upper-hand (a very good thing, as I said I can't be frugal with funds). What I'm really concerned with at the moment is all the bolts, nuts that I'll need. Will anything come with the engine? or will I need to source the stuff I need through a hardware store? How many more bolts/nuts does the SR or CA have than the KA? just a few or a bucket load?
For clarification, what you are selling is a complete swap (SMIC, IC piping, engine accesories, ecu harness, etc), right? I don't need anything else to do the swap and make it run?
also to be honest bitching at you for a crapped out engine doesn't sounds like something that will happen.
You don't happen to do leak-down tests instead of compression tests do you?Also is there any gurantee on the transmission itself? What if the synchros are out or the transmission is stuffed? Would I get a replacement?
i couldn't believe there isn't a whole lot more bolts required for the swap and I can save myself $300+ bucks going through you, so I think I'll buy from you. RHD would be cool (lived in Japan for a long time), but I should be practical...for now.
Probably, if all goes well, I'll order in Spring of next year.thanks for the post!
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I H8 UR DSM
- Posts: 3196
- Joined: Fri May 24, 2002 8:06 am
- Contact:
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Daunttless
- Posts: 3890
- Joined: Sun May 12, 2002 7:20 am
Well, it wouldn't just be a straight swap with the RHD, it would be significantly easier with a frontclip that had an intact dash though. However, usually the dash and what not takes a lot of abuse in the clip.
As far as nuts and bolts, it uses the same as the KA. : ) Motor mounts will come with the engine, but I would suggest putting in stiffer ones while you have the whole thing out of there.
The only thing you'll need to source is the parts for your transmission swap, the automatic uses shorter trans bolts, you'll also need a manual trans driveshaft, theres a few other parts you'll need as well, but I'm sure you've checked all that.
My engine is complete block, complete head, manifolds and turbo, most accessories ( it generally doesn't come with AC ) complete harness, usuall fuse box if you really want it, all ic piping and smic. The only thing you ACTUALLY need is a downpipe, I usually suggest at least a new intake/exhaust and fuel pump, as well as motor mounts.
I only have compression testing done, its easy to get done, but the problems uncovered by a leakdown test are covered by my startup guarantee.
The transmission is considered part of my engine package, and if its fubar'd it will get taken care of wholly at my expense.
Not a problem, let me know if theres anything else you'd like to know. : )
As far as nuts and bolts, it uses the same as the KA. : ) Motor mounts will come with the engine, but I would suggest putting in stiffer ones while you have the whole thing out of there.
The only thing you'll need to source is the parts for your transmission swap, the automatic uses shorter trans bolts, you'll also need a manual trans driveshaft, theres a few other parts you'll need as well, but I'm sure you've checked all that.
My engine is complete block, complete head, manifolds and turbo, most accessories ( it generally doesn't come with AC ) complete harness, usuall fuse box if you really want it, all ic piping and smic. The only thing you ACTUALLY need is a downpipe, I usually suggest at least a new intake/exhaust and fuel pump, as well as motor mounts.
I only have compression testing done, its easy to get done, but the problems uncovered by a leakdown test are covered by my startup guarantee.
The transmission is considered part of my engine package, and if its fubar'd it will get taken care of wholly at my expense.
Not a problem, let me know if theres anything else you'd like to know. : )
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CiscoKidRB
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 3:39 pm
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Daunttless
- Posts: 3890
- Joined: Sun May 12, 2002 7:20 am
that IS a good deal. It's like buying a clip, but not . I figured that the downpipe wouldn't come with it anyway. But who wants the stock unit anyway? That's awesome about the SMIC coming with the engine!!
I was planning on getting the nismo mounts when I do the swap along with a new clutch and flywheel.
Too bad about the A/C, but I'm not complaining. My car doesn't have A/C now anyway. Its a super-base-model SE.
Well, all of my paranoid excuses are expelled!
thanks again!
p.s. i know this is off topic, but were you still planning on importing the strawberry face conversion kits for the S13?
. I figured that the downpipe wouldn't come with it anyway. But who wants the stock unit anyway? That's awesome about the SMIC coming with the engine!!I was planning on getting the nismo mounts when I do the swap along with a new clutch and flywheel.
Too bad about the A/C, but I'm not complaining. My car doesn't have A/C now anyway. Its a super-base-model SE.
Well, all of my paranoid excuses are expelled!
thanks again!
p.s. i know this is off topic, but were you still planning on importing the strawberry face conversion kits for the S13?
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Daunttless
- Posts: 3890
- Joined: Sun May 12, 2002 7:20 am
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Daunttless
- Posts: 3890
- Joined: Sun May 12, 2002 7:20 am