Recommendations for repair shops, used car testing

[Bcarter5115]

I am looking for any recommendations you might have to a reputable repair shop in Florida. I am looking at picking up my friends 1993 300zx in Delaware and trailering it down to its new home in Florida. The car has not been started in over a year so I know all new fluids will need to be put in. It also has been left outside to the elements the whole time.

I don’t know much about this car maintenance wise, however it was my best friends before he passed away. I don’t wanna see it left outside anymore and I want to ultimately take it to a place I know will care for it to bring it back to how he had it.

EDIT- PO, I added to your title given the excellent info below, hopefully it helps you determine the viability of your buddy's Z32. DCaff

[Ace2cool]

If you're going from Delaware to Florida, drop it off at Z1 along the way, lol. They're in Atlanta and pretty much sacred ground as far as Z's and G's go in the southeast. But otherwise I don't know of any real Z specific shops in Florida. Most dealers charge an arm and a leg, and their master mechanics aren't even certified on the z32 anymore. You'd be far better learning the ropes and doing it yourself on these cars, cause they're touchy and you know it's being done right. We are always here to help too.

[macgiver]

mac here with some pre-buy tips, this would sound "Goofy" unless I preface it: this helps avoid issues from "whereby I've lately seen - heard - a friend of a friend's experienced it" type info and similar "bad" info that commonly gets passed around by those who are not truly "up" on cars and car assessment...most people who don't work on their cars a lot, or care to know much more than operating and where to take their car to get fixed.
Scenario goes that the "New" used car is obtained (sight unseen; no pre-test of any kind), and very soon it is attempted to start which results in an assessment of FUBAR'ed engine, and potentially a lot of wasted money plus the monies it will take to fix the car For those who are looking at a car that may not start or run but the owner claims it will, here's some tests to help determine the engine's current viability.
In a nutshell, you (or helper) want to as best possible:
1) Rotate the crank by hand with a breaker bar or wrench at least 3 full turns, testing for collision noises, non-operation, or catches. If any present stop immediatly and do not force things, just walk away right now unless you already expect the belt is bad and engine is toast...because it is if these things happen.
2) If moving freely, try to determine Timing belt backlash is not "Severe" by SLOWLY hand turn backwards, same procedure as above but reversed - it takes almost a "Safecracker's feel" feeling for catches or obstructions, or evidence the tensioners are/aren't still operational as it's common the studs break or bearings seize. If possible (you have time/tools to remove right side timing belt cover, or it's already off), get a visual on the belt's condition as well as the tensioners (down low) if possible.
3) That checking out, next is the cam clocking...best test is #1 spark plug removal to determine if the piston is moving with the cams, and if TDC is achieved at the correct timing positions. A skipped tooth or two on a new TC is a very common mistake for those not "up" on the procedure and will cause the engine to not run correctly, and if off more than 1 tooth can actually damage the valves via collision.
4) Next if above all passes, a thorough inspection of all connectors (looking for corrosion), battery age and connectors, belts and hoses looking for wear also helps indicate the engine's life history and chance of starting up for you. You also definitely want to be SURE the stock clutch fan is in place and spins correctly: not freely unless VERY hot, but as if it's in light oil or something...just a little bit of resistance but spins easily once moving. If notchy or bound up, you have a major cooling issue waiting for you. Same with the radiator, ANY damage or leakage is a huge problem and the cooling system needs a rebuild.
5) If all checks to this point, a compression test is in order (check OSM for proper procedure, which is unlike many other cars BTW) and if that passes, go for the actual 1st time cranking.

This should be the final hurdle, and if it starts and runs well you can move on to other checks such as rust/mold, further needed maintenance, etc.
Now you'll have good baseline on the whole rest of your renovate vs. sell strategy. Avoid this type of scenario: Buddy in Jan bought van, turns out it has a seized motor. The ad/previous owner masked this critical problem by stating in the ad it came with a "bad fuel pump", "starter bad", ignition starter solenoid disconnected, etc. This and the good old "car needs this and that, have the parts but just not installed" are warnings that quite possibly a far larger problem exists, since most likely if all the car needed was the parts installed, the PO would have done it and be using the car.
I know this all may not be your type scenario, but it's the "Principal " here that many people are not honest or carefully leave out critical info hoping you will ignore that missing info, or worse (for you), hope you do not know to ask/look for it.
Glen 11/7/2017

Edit- Just a note to the PO that I cleaned this up (and added a few things I know) as it is very good test info, but was very hard to read and comprehend. Thanks for the good info, Glen.
DCaff

[macgiver]

Thank you, good cleanup !!! Glen

[Bcarter5115]

Thanks for the feedback. I am doing everything in my power to get this car regardless of if the motor is seized or it’s a complete wreck and overhaul is needed. It’s more of a sentimental thing since this was my friends vehicle before he passed away and his dad took it. His dad has passed now and we are trying to keep it within the “family” through all of his friends.

I will give the shop in ATL a call and see if I might be able to work something out with them.

Thanks again

[NolimitZ32]

Bcarter, there are not many more noble things than what you are doing. I would have done the same for my best friend but he didn't have a dear car at the time of his passing and actually took my previous Z32 with him into the next world. If there is any info or help otherwise that you need that I can provide from Houston please don't hesitate to post or PM me. Also I have TONS of parts, basically enough to build 1.5 Z32s so if there is anything you need let me know, It's yours for the cost of shipping. Good luck with the car.

[zxFarside]

Premier Z is around Tampa.

[DCaff300ZX]

Bcarter, there are not many more noble things than what you are doing. I would have done the same for my best friend but he didn't have a dear car at the time of his passing and actually took my previous Z32 with him into the next world. If there is any info or help otherwise that you need that I can provide from Houston please don't hesitate to post or PM me. Also I have TONS of parts, basically enough to build 1.5 Z32s so if there is anything you need let me know, It's yours for the cost of shipping. Good luck with the car.

Totally agreed, you are doing a great thing here.
When my brother was killed awhile back I kept some of his most often used and treasured items, and keep them about the house as if he's still around which makes things a little better so I hope that you get the same results with your efforts!

[Bcarter5115]

Thanks for the support. I am working on setting up a place to store the car as well as a garage. If i could figure out how to upload a picture i have saved i'd show you.

[NolimitZ32]

You have to host them on a site like imgur or imgbb and then embed (use the "img" button in the full editor below or copy the embedded img text from the host site)