Well, its done after MANY and MANY of u guys kept insisting that it was my open bov. I went out and spend $30 on parts and did it.I have it recirculated back to the turbo intake side AFTER the maf sensor.. NO changes, the motor continue's to stall out at stop lights and stop signs..
SO much for that theory..!!
And if u guys wana ask the SAME questions again..I have a greddy type S bov and its mounted on the cold pipe about 14 inches away from the throttle body.My maf is about 8 inches away from the turbo..
Any more suggestions..??
Recirculated the BOV, still stalling out at lights and stop signs..!!!
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Structure240sx
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rn240sx
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Re: (Structure240sx)
The wideband was ordered and its on the way..!!
Re: (rn240sx)
Mine was doing that and it turned out to be a poor MAF wire connection
just a thought
just a thought
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rn240sx
- Posts: 891
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98 240sx ka-t (fully built)
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OK, i was informed by a guy on freshalloy that the only way to cure my problem was to either raise up the idle to 1000 or more OR recirculate the bov... If i raise it to 1000 or more, the idle will still drop down low, but it will raise back up, but it still might stall out simply cause u just dumped out all the air...
When i did recirculate the bov, it didnt help, why..?? Simply cause the Greddy Type S bov will only work properly if it is used as an OPEN atmosphere bov. Once it is recirculated, it will not work properly UNLESS it is INTERNALLY modified. To modify it, the bov needs to be physically OPENED up via hex screws on the top portion of it. Once the screws are removed the bov will separate into 2 pieces. Inside there are (2) springs. An inner spring (smaller one) and the outer spring (larger one). The smaller spring needs to be removed and the larger spring needs to stay where it is. Put it back together and it should now work in a recirculation setup.If u plan on running open bov, then that smaller spring that u removed needs to be put back in.Its really nice of GREDDY to NOT mention this. But 99% of the people out there that buy this bov run it as open bov..
So i went and fixed the bov as he instructed, went out and hit 5 lights and about 4 stop signs... NO STALLING at all...!!!!! I was amazed...
The rpm's dropped and made a sudden STOP at about 800 rpm and maintained solid... I even reved to 6 k rpm and released the gas pedal, and still did NOT stall out..!!
What i also noticed while test driving is that while i shifted to N to test it, i noticed that the rpm's did not drop as fast as b4.. It kinda dropped a bit slower.
Oh well, im happy that it was fixed and lets see how long this will hold for.....
When i did recirculate the bov, it didnt help, why..?? Simply cause the Greddy Type S bov will only work properly if it is used as an OPEN atmosphere bov. Once it is recirculated, it will not work properly UNLESS it is INTERNALLY modified. To modify it, the bov needs to be physically OPENED up via hex screws on the top portion of it. Once the screws are removed the bov will separate into 2 pieces. Inside there are (2) springs. An inner spring (smaller one) and the outer spring (larger one). The smaller spring needs to be removed and the larger spring needs to stay where it is. Put it back together and it should now work in a recirculation setup.If u plan on running open bov, then that smaller spring that u removed needs to be put back in.Its really nice of GREDDY to NOT mention this. But 99% of the people out there that buy this bov run it as open bov..
So i went and fixed the bov as he instructed, went out and hit 5 lights and about 4 stop signs... NO STALLING at all...!!!!! I was amazed...
The rpm's dropped and made a sudden STOP at about 800 rpm and maintained solid... I even reved to 6 k rpm and released the gas pedal, and still did NOT stall out..!!
What i also noticed while test driving is that while i shifted to N to test it, i noticed that the rpm's did not drop as fast as b4.. It kinda dropped a bit slower.
Oh well, im happy that it was fixed and lets see how long this will hold for.....