recent valve job, now injectors arent working?

[eliterit]

Ok, so i recently purchased a s13 pignose with a ca18det that was happily running, but the timing belt snapped, which is why i bought the car.

anyway. I took the head to the machine shop to get a valve job, put everything back together and the engine cranks over, gets spark, but im pretty sure the injectors aren't firing. and I do get fuel pressure.

My question is, for the ca18det , what is the best way to go about diagnosing this issue?

I smell no fuel from the spark plugs, and i am definitly getting spark.

I'm trying to figure out this problem on my own sorta with a volt meter. if i unplug one of the injector connectors, the solid colored wires that go to each injector are getting 1.4ish volts, and on the other wire for each injector(the ground?) i get no resistence. This testing was done while the ignition is in the on position.

I looked at the wiring diagram for the injector harness and the solid color wire for each injector goes to a "dropping resister" which then leads down to one red colored wire to pin 58 on the ecu and also the power transistor (ignitor). And i have tested at these points and get 12v.

I'm assuming the the term "dropping resistor" means that it drops the voltage down on purpose as the injectors probably don't require a full 12v? correct?

I'm starting to belive that my problem is from a grounding issue? If so, I have double checked both ground wires that go from the fuel injector harness to the intake manifold.

Any advice anyone has to offer is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[float_6969]

Turn ignition to Run position.

At the dropping resistor you should have 5 wires. Red - 12V +White - Injector #1Green - Injector #3Blue - Injector #4Yellow - Injector #2

All of these wires should have voltage, I'm not sure how much, but I would think less than what you've got on the Red wire.

Follow those same wires over and they match up with the injectors. Make sure that you've got the right plugs on the right injectors.

With the plugs attached to the injectors, from the backside of the plug, check the voltage again on the solid colored wires. It should be the same, or close to the same as what you read at the dropping resistor.

Now check the striped wire (White w/black, Yellow w/black, Green w/black, and Blue w/black) Still leave it plugged into the injector and check it from the back side of the plug. It should read even less voltage than the feeding side.

If all of that checks out then unplug the ECU and turn the ignition switch back into the run position and use a small peice of wire with both ends bared and short the stripped wires to ground momentarily. (still leave them plugged into the injector.) You should hear the injector click when you do this. If they don't click, then you've got a bad connection/bad injector. If they do click, then make sure that you've got continuity between the striped wires and the ECU. You can DL a copy of the FSM to find where the wires plug into the ECU. The page you want is on the last page of the ECU generally.

[eliterit]

thank you very much for your help.

I hadn't had a chance to tackle this issue again until today. and before i even hooked up a voltmeter to the injectors, i relooked over my harness and noticed there was this one connector not plugged in which runs all the way around to the driver side strut tower ( a six pin connector). Well i plugged that in for ****s and giggles, and then tested for voltage on each wire on the injectors and got a consistent 11.72v.

So with that, i decided to try and start it and it started right up. Sounds great by the way with a slight exhaust leak

but im just glad it runs.

Thanks once again!