Recent Stalling and Idle Problems: I Already Searched...

[Thoughtful_One]

****FIXED****

The problem first started a few weeks ago. The car is a 1992 240SX that is stock except for an intake. The car would first start, then the idle would flucuate then die. Sometimes it would initially seem to run perfectly, but then die on me when driving! I fixed it the first time by cleaning up the ground on the ignition coil.

The problem then happened again a few days later. I wiggled the MAF connecter and found that the idle would fluctuate. I took the MAF off, cleaned it with brake parts cleaner and put a little dielectric grease on the harness connector and the car ran well. I also bent the connectors a little so that the connection between the male and female would be a little tighter. While I was at it, since the CTS readings were a little out of spec., I replaced that as well.

Today I went to start the car and, yet again, I am having problems. Within 10 seconds, the car died. I started it again and it lasted longer, but I couldn't give it any throttle. 30 minutes later I go to start it and it runs normally. As a full-time college student, I can't be bothered with having to worry if my car is going to start or not in the morning, especially when midterms are around the corner. I followed the procedures in the FSM as well with a voltmeter. Can anybody help me with this?
Modified by Thoughtful_One at 8:57 AM 3/10/2007

[jaytv1019]

Your maf is bad.

Never ever clean your maf with brake cleaner! I always thought that is how to clean it but I ruined mine, and everyone else who has done the same ruined theirs.

Unfortunately you need a new one. To test, unplug the maf and start the car. If the maf is bad, the car will start and idle smooth but a little higher (maybe around ~1100 ish) but will not rev past 3500 - 4000 very well. Test it and let us all know.

If you end up needing one I can help, I think I have a couple laying around here from swaps.

Later,

[Thoughtful_One]

Your maf is bad.

Never ever clean your maf with brake cleaner! I always thought that is how to clean it but I ruined mine, and everyone else who has done the same ruined theirs.

Unfortunately you need a new one. To test, unplug the maf and start the car. If the maf is bad, the car will start and idle smooth but a little higher (maybe around ~1100 ish) but will not rev past 3500 - 4000 very well. Test it and let us all know.

If you end up needing one I can help, I think I have a couple laying around here from swaps.

Later,

Thanks for the help. But doesn't it make sense that if the MAF is GOOD, unplugging it and revving it will result in poor performance?

[vancouverbc]

he is just telling you how a normal car runs without a maf. you can alsounplug the o2 sensor to see if conditions improve.

[Thoughtful_One]

Your maf is bad.

Never ever clean your maf with brake cleaner! I always thought that is how to clean it but I ruined mine, and everyone else who has done the same ruined theirs.

Unfortunately you need a new one. To test, unplug the maf and start the car. If the maf is bad, the car will start and idle smooth but a little higher (maybe around ~1100 ish) but will not rev past 3500 - 4000 very well. Test it and let us all know.

If you end up needing one I can help, I think I have a couple laying around here from swaps.

Later,

I just checked my MAF. I unplugged it and started it. The idle was smooth and revving was a disaster. When I **** the car off and plugged it back in, the it would not allow me to rev past 2500. I then disconnected the battery for two hours to reset the ECU, but now it is even worse, not holding idle. It starts up and fluctuates between 100 and 700, but when I clutch out, the car just dies.

**This means that I need a new MAF? If so, how much? It needs to come ASAP, unless I find a local guy to buy from. Please get back to me.

[Thoughtful_One]

I had the symptoms that the other members described. I went down to the junkyard and purchased another one for $50. After I put it in, along with a new distributor cap, the car did not hesitate at all. At operating temperature, the idle was also much smoother than before. Hopefully it stays this way...

[Thoughtful_One]

It's been a few weeks and the car has not stalled once. The new MAF fixed the problem.

[vancouverbc]

thanks for getting back with the outcome.

[jinjinweiwei]

Hi i am new, and my car have almost the same problem. but i can rev up pass 3000rpm without problem. i unplugged the MAF connection to test it, i cant rev over 3000 without the connection, so my question is what can it be? i already changed the entire distributor, distributor connection to the spark plugs, gasket cover. now the check engine light is on, the code is for MAF, but i dont have the sytoms of the bad MAF. i am kinda confused now. please help me guys! i love my s14 =(

[jinjinweiwei]

can someone help me out please?

[donnie89240sx]

well this is my problem i think its my mafs but not sure. wont idle worth a crud but if i rev it up or while im driving it runs fine. burns rich but runs. wont run good under 2000 rpms. every now and then can get it to idle but runs really bad and idle jumps around. i need to find out if it is the mafs before i go and spend 269 on one and that not be the problem.

[Thoughtful_One]

well this is my problem i think its my mafs but not sure. wont idle worth a crud but if i rev it up or while im driving it runs fine. burns rich but runs. wont run good under 2000 rpms. every now and then can get it to idle but runs really bad and idle jumps around. i need to find out if it is the mafs before i go and spend 269 on one and that not be the problem.

First, check your ECU to see if it's throwing any codes.

Why would you spend $269 on an MAF? Find a junkyard and purchase it for much less.

Or, you can buy a can of CRC Maf Cleaner and give the element a few quick sprays. DO NOT try brake cleaner or carb. cleaner. I tried it and it made the situation worse.

[donnie89240sx]

well i cant find any mafs on ebay. and i can not find any in any junk yards around here for under 100 dollars. if i am going to spend that much on one in a junk yard. then imma just put in the rest and get it brand new so it was a warrenty and garentee it will work. my ecu isnt throwing any codes. i recently did a check with another ecu from a junk yard and it wanted to run better but it missed on one cylinder.

[Thoughtful_One]

well i cant find any mafs on ebay. and i can not find any in any junk yards around here for under 100 dollars. if i am going to spend that much on one in a junk yard. then imma just put in the rest and get it brand new so it was a warrenty and garentee it will work. my ecu isnt throwing any codes. i recently did a check with another ecu from a junk yard and it wanted to run better but it missed on one cylinder.

You should check the forums then... No need to spend that much on a KA-E MAF.

After you replaced it with another one, did the idle still flucuate?

A new one may be in order, but $269 is a lot, unless you really need it.

A quick search on eBay;http://search.ebay.com/ka24e-m...mZR40

Good luck.

[donnie89240sx]

well when i put the other computer in the idle didnt go up and down but she still wouldnt idle worth a crud.she been sitting in my driveway since i havent done anything else if i cant figure it out soon imma suck it up and just put a forsale sign on it.

[Thoughtful_One]

You put a new ECU in?

Why don't you download the FSM?

I'm sure you haven't tried several things. Timing, injectors, bad gas, fuel filter, ignition, grounding wire for MAF, MAF, bad grounds in general, IACV can all cause a bad idle.

[donnie89240sx]

well this is what all i had changed to fix my car. i changed the iaa,ecu, still have the same maf same injectors and i know it wasnt bad gas. now all i have to do is adjust the idle and changed the chts because its a little hard to stay running when its cold. but once it warms up runs perfect even idle wise. i still havent put in a thermostat in yet,lmao i drove it today a total of around 50 miles and not a single problem.