Rebuilt KA24E already dead?won't idle?violent shake?

[xKnownShadowX]

I recently swapped a rebuilt KA24E in my car and everything was fine until one day on the freeway doing 60MPH the car just felt like it lost power when I putt the depressed the throttle more.I ignored it and the car ran fine then again it did it.As I exited the car started running rough and choking out.I made it to a parking lot and there was some clear smoking coming from under the car and intake manifold side.Got it towed and did research.None relate to mine and I dunno what it can be.New head gasket and bolts too engine probably went for like 100miles or less before this happened.I can start the car up but it idles up to 3k as if the maf was disconnected and also if I WOT the car dies or takes a minute then catches but if I slowly depress it it'll go up to 3k and just bounce off.I disconnected the MAF and engine dies asap and also cuts off at 3k.I cleaned the MAF also took off my valve cover air breather and removed the cat to make sure the cat is not clogged.Oil looks new and compression was 190PSI and went up to 200PSI all across as it warmed up.Any idea?Timing is on the dot but one thing I did notice is my plugs are super super black.I'm guessing Im running very rich and I also removed my emissions.I kept the butter flies and hooked it up to the intake vacuum and split in the FPR.At idle it'll stay around 500rpm and engine will wobble and shake a lot.Please give me ideas because I've checked all I can as to the info I found.

[OutToWinPAHC]

clear smoke, how did you see it? I would lean towards a fuel miscalculation from a bad reading, unmetered air, or a bad sensor.

Can you check codes?

[xKnownShadowX]

went to pull codes and none the ECU lights turn on.Dash warning lights are all off.IDK whats going on now.

[1KleenS13]

No check engine light means no power or ground to the ecm...................since the car runs I would say its lack of ground. I would look at the wiring. Also why did you take the emissions off? I'm going with outtowin on unmetered air for part of the problem, the other part could be a loose connection.

[xKnownShadowX]

I removed emissions because I didn't wanna deal with vacuum lines and wanted a cleaner look.

Couldn't pull codes because my Alarm kept putting the car in shut down.Fixed it and only code I got was 13 Temp sensor but they car still won't rev past 3000rpm.It also chokes out when I hit the throttle all the way to the floor.I go in 1st gear car acts is it dies when I try to move forward then studders as it moves.It can't be HG can it?

I also swapped MAF and it did no difference.Like I said this happened running the car not that hard so I'm completely lost.

[zachattack_5491]

If the plugs are black you're most likely having a problem with fuel. Test the injectors and the wiring. Maybe they are stuck open or otherwise not operating correctly. I guess you might also be having an issue with spark which compounds the problem. Test the usual suspects: spark, fuel, and air.

You might want to be careful once you get it fixed, too much fuel seeps past the rings and into your oil which will thin it out. You don't want to blow that fresh engine because of that.

[xKnownShadowX]

Good looking.I'm gonna see how injectors squirt and maybe swap out FPR I got a spare.I will replace spark plugs since they are black or perhaps any type of test you recommend doing?

For the air IONNO where to look or what to look for?

[zachattack_5491]

Actually, you just reminded me of this. I had similar issues when my FPR went bad. Swap out the FPR first since it's easy, then test injectors. Might as well just swap out the plugs anyways, but I think the proper test is to ground the metal prong to something and see if there's a spark when you crank it. I don't know why I put air, that was stupid lol

[xKnownShadowX]

I'm in the worst mood and this engine is really pissing me off.I replaced FPR, TPS, MAF, and the car still choking out.It idles then acts like its gonna die.Then I hit throttle and it chokes if WOT or it just dies.This is annoying me so bad its really really ruining my days.I searched and search but nobody has the same issue.I got a Intake by the way I have a feeling maybe its sucking too much air?IDK its getting on my last nerve.

[xKnownShadowX]

any idea?I'm getting really impatient with this the fact that it's rebuilt and messed up.

[zachattack_5491]

Did you test the MAF wiring? Make sure it gets voltage, test ground, and make sure the wire goes all the way to the ECU. You might also want to try a friend's ECU.

When you replaced the TPS did you set it correctly?

You should take a video of it when you're trying to rev it up.

[xKnownShadowX]

I will take a video if I can.My car is open header right now cause I needed to eliminate the Clogged cat and got lazy.I've ran my car open header before and ran fine so that can't be the issue.I have a feeling the cone intake is giving too much air perhaps?I will test MAF wiring today.I have two ecus tried both and both do the same.Ones auto the other 5spd.I tried setting it correctly but nothing the car still did the same.

If you can bro give me a call sometime 925 493 1807 but not tonight cause I'm going to a Rave so LMK.Thanks for the help I appreciate it alot.

[benarovi561]

put your exhaust back on ka's need back pressure. check if its misfiring which it probbly is. check if the fuels going in right and coming out the return line good. make shure you connected all the vaccum lines when you put your intake on.

[moso]

KA series motors benifit from no back pressure thats why almost everyone that owns one buys the biggest exhaust they can find, if you dont believe me just google "ka24de no backpressure in exhaust system". i would be more inclined to say the fuel pump is failing and your not getting adequate pressure. its also possible that you have your intake runner butterflys(swirl controll??) hooked up incorrectly and they are choking you out, i say pin em open.

[xKnownShadowX]

I got a vacuum line goin from intake to FRP to a T and going to the SCV or whatever it's called.Wrong hook up?

I got all my intake lines blocked so theres no need to hook em up.FP is kinda buzzing weird now but still does.Like I said car will idle but won't rev past 1500RPM and stalls out alot.

I was thinking maybe MAF wires are done.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Back pressure is bad, big exhaust can also be bad. Its about flow velocity, not size.

[xKnownShadowX]

In all honesty I understand the back pressure issue but I highly doubt that won't let me rev past 1500rpm

[moso]

i dont think thats the correct way to hook that system up, however i dont really know. i do know if you have it hooked up wrong and those butterflys close it will choke out your motor. that being said its easy enough to tie the little arm open with some mechanics wire just to find out. personally i removed mine when i striped off my emiss, i have a ka24de tho. as far as the mafs is concerned usually when it craps out you can get it to about 3500 before it chokes up, that dosent mean its good.

[xKnownShadowX]

The car ran before though the way I had it setup.

[zachattack_5491]

Just test the MAFS. Random observations about things aren't going to help you. Start testing things until you find the problem.

[xKnownShadowX]

man this POS is pissing me off.I tested everything and it just chokes out when I give it throttle.It wont rev past 2k now.

Like it'll idle coo and then ilde hell rough like it has mood swings.Once I hit the throttle it starts to idle hella bad and dies at times.No leaks that I can find what so ever.I'm putting my cat back on today.

[xKnownShadowX]

Update.

Cleaned all plugs from corrosion now car drives but if I WOT it'll bog out and if I hold it at WOT it'll wanna go but won't then light press the throttle and it'll keep going.It's super slow though the car maybe because I have open header.IDK what can be causing it to bog I guess more things to clean/fix/repair fml.

update.

MAF
Car dies when unpluged.
engine off key on position it reads .0797v but drops really slow
engine idling it reads 1.67v-1.7v

Put exhaust on car does the same thing.It chokes.

[zachattack_5491]

No 4 stroke engine benefits from back pressure. That's a fact.

Set your tps. Retest MAF. Maf should have .8- 1.5v at idle, and 1.4- 2v at 3k rpm.

If you unplug the MAF and it dies, your car is not entering fail-safe mode correctly. With maf unplugged it should fall back on the tps to meter fuel and air up to 2500rpm.

[xKnownShadowX]

Well then if it's not entering fail-safe mode correctly what can it be?I'll retest maf tomorrow but I got a video finally.

here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-s63Zq5O-_8

I was looking for vacuum leaks too and one did kinda made the car rev up higher but I sprayed it a bit more times and it did nothing so I said oh well.

As you can see when I hit throttle WOT in the inside car view it goes up to 3.5k I think and no further and when outside I hit the throttle WOT and car dies/bogs.

If I did anything wrong in the vid LMK he he

[xKnownShadowX]

I've also noticed my battery keeps draining out.I can't find no shorts on the Coolant temp sensor harness or maf.I don't understand.Could it be a blown head gasket?

Bad alternator?I got it tested not to long after i started driving the car again and it was fine.

[Armstec_S13]

on your intake, the part that you bolt to the MAF and put the air filter on does it have that hole that runs the hose to that lil black box under the ign coil? i was having similar issues with idling and random stalling finding out i forgot to connect the hose back when i took my intake off to replace my radiator, also have you tried switching your tps out with another and you might also want to check the coolant temp sensor i remember when mine went out and my car was running so weird

[xKnownShadowX]

I blocked off that hole you speak of and also a mechanic that's worked on my car and has years of experience came and looked at it.He said the car idles fine but sounds like it's a timing problem cause it to give too much fuel and choke the car.Basically what I understood from him is at idle timings okay or is off but doesn't affect much but when you hit the throttle the timing jumps off.Sounds like my chain got loose and it started to skip teeth which make sense cause when I first drove the car it was bad I fixed it and it started getting worse duning the days.I'l replacing the timing chain and hopefully that fixes the problem.I will also triple check my timing when I put the chain on I ave a feeling maybe I was one tooth off.Will update asap.

[xKnownShadowX]

car's fixed.What had happened was the crank shaft sprocket chipped two teeth causing the cam gear to skip teeth.Thanks for the help but no I'm running really rich.FACEPALM.One after anther.