rebuild questions....

[emperor_lunchbox]

Hello,I just got another KA to rebuild. My question is what constitutes a new motor?I would like to build upi the motor for boost, and I would like to know what parts should be replaced? As far as I know everything works on the motor, it has less than 90 K on it and was running great when pulled. I have a budget of about 400-500 for the rebuild. What would be the best route for about 300 HP.My only goal really is 12.9 in the 1/4Any suggestions?

[emperor_lunchbox]

one more pic

[TrueSlide]

Well for the $$ of your budget on the rebuild is feasible. I am assuming you plan on running boost. The thing is though, you want your motor to be able to withstand the beating so you defiently want to use some high quality parts. I consider it a new motor when you replace things such as bearings, rings, all gaskets, all seals and a good cleaning. Majority of guys running in the 12s are using forged pistons as a minimum. That alone is $400. Honestly to get your motor for a reliable 12 sec car I would at least invest 1k into the motor prep.

Ya defiently get that motor cleaned.

[emperor_lunchbox]

I guess a grand isnt too bad.What do you recommend for cleaning the motor?I have started on the valve cover and some of the peripherals. But I have been using a bleach cleanser. I am worried about getting this solution in the eletrical connections and in the spark plug holes. I dont really think it will hurt anything, but I would rather err on the side of caution. I was thinking about forged pistons, I dont really know what to buy tho. This is my first attempt at boost. thanks.

[TrueSlide]

Hot tank the block and cylinder head and stuff. Makes that stuff look great! Fiznat wrote a FAQ on his manifold(He is a KAT guy) its somewhere on here but he bought a certain paint for intake manifold and plenum and it looks showroom new. Hot tanking and maybe spray painting or powdercoating the block goes along ways. The KA-T guys will know alot of good places to source pistons. Since this is your first attempt at going boost, invest a extra 20 bucks and pick up Maximum Boost by Corkey Bell. The book is a turbo bible, I bought and Iam EXtREMELY happy with it.

Grease Lighting is A+ cleaning stuff.

[emperor_lunchbox]

I picked up an engine stand I began cleaning it, I purchased the greased lightning and a degreaser, and the motor is starting to look great. Very different. Next is taking off the things I broke during the transport.Like the distributor capI also need to source a gasket kit.

[emperor_lunchbox]

Does anyone know where I can find this:

[aquaman]

I believe that you should be able to find that at the local auto parts store. Just ask for a cap and rotor. The cap is the plastic thing that the spart plug wires connect to, and the rotor is the little arm on the inside that distributes electricty to the sparkplug wires (you don't necessarily need to replace this piece unless the one in there is showing signs of corrosion). I think these parts are pretty cheap (< $25) Anyone correct me if I'm not seeing it right in the picture. If you haven't already done so, pick up a factory service manual for your car (FSM). I'm just starting work on my car and its and invaluable resource. Sometimes you can find them cheap on ebay, regardless it's money well spent.

[emperor_lunchbox]

thanks for your help. I am in the process of gathering a FSM. I have several PDF ones but none for the KA.

anyway, I ran into another snag....How the hell do I remove this. I think its the FPR, I want to know if I can cut these lines?Are they hard to replace (meaning do places stock them?)Or is there some sort of trick to getting these damn things off, my fingers will thank you.

[InsanityInc]

that's the EGRC-BPT, or the Backpressure Transducer valve. It controls exhaust flow to the EGR valve. Two bolts hold it down, and it's connected to the EGR by a little rubber hose.

[emperor_lunchbox]

ok, its off. The lines came off easily after I let them set for a few minutes in some WD-40.Now for the next problemGetting them motor on the stand....Man this thing is heavy....

[240DRFT]

when removing little hoses use pliers and wiggle it off

[Bigvinnie]

thanks for your help. I am in the process of gathering a FSM. I have several PDF ones but none for the KA.

If you are still looking for the FSM http://www.zeroyon.com has it. You can download the FSD for either SOHC or DOHC engines.

[TrueSlide]

Getting it on the engine stand is easy. Pull the engine apart, complelty. Bare block and bolt it to the engine stand bracket thingy, pick it up and put it in. The block bare is still heavy but very doable.

[emperor_lunchbox]

I figured getting it on the stand would be easier than it is. There are several roadblocks in the way.1. Location: apartment patio2. I am not really equipped with the proper tool a. I took off what I could and all I could get off was the exh. mani, fuel rail, starter, transmission, and some misc. peripherals.3. Brute strength. I dont think I am weak but the Effer is heavy.

Anyway, I will work out a solution, That is what I do.I could use a reccommendation on where to get a rebuild kit for a good price. I found one somewhere for 460 that came with everything except the timing kit, which IIRC I found for 135 on some website.

[OldmanPurdy]

I believe that you should be able to find that at the local auto parts store. Just ask for a cap and rotor. The cap is the plastic thing that the spart plug wires connect to, and the rotor is the little arm on the inside that distributes electricty to the sparkplug wires (you don't necessarily need to replace this piece unless the one in there is showing signs of corrosion). I think these parts are pretty cheap (< $25) Anyone correct me if I'm not seeing it right in the picture. If you haven't already done so, pick up a factory service manual for your car (FSM). I'm just starting work on my car and its and invaluable resource. Sometimes you can find them cheap on ebay, regardless it's money well spent.

One thing to know when replacing the cap and rotor on a KA24DE is that there are actually 2 different distributors, one is Hitachi (sp?) and the the other is made by mitsubushi. The cap and rotor from the hitachi won't fit the mitsubushi and vice versa. This totaly confused me when first got this car because I have the mitus one. (which i believe is the rare one?), Take your cap to the dealer when you go and show it to them they will know which one you have

[ArcadeMod]

http://www.ka24de.com/

has some forged pistons you might wanna look at