Rebuild kit came, got some questions...

[Touchdown038]

My engine kit came today! I got it from autopartsgiant.com when they were having their 10% off special, so the price was about $220. Includes pistons and rings, bearings, oil pump, expansion plugs, and lower gasket kit. (I still need the head kit, getting it from the machine shop.)

So I went to put the rings on the pistons and I realized I have no idea how to install the oil ring. It's a 3-piece ring, but there are no markings on the rails or the expander. In fact, none of the rings have any markings on them, when I thought they had to go in a certain way.

So my first question is how do I install the oil ring? And are there supposed to be markings on each ring? Please!

[s13sr20chris]

honestly, if you got it for $220, it prob does not matter. just make sure the ruffly ring goes in the middle of the other two and space out the ring gaps by thirds.

[Touchdown038]

Alright cool, got them installed.

Next question: in my gasket kit, there are two gaskets of which I am unsure about. One looks to be for the oil pan (which I thought required RTV alone to seal) and another one, which looks pretty similar to the oil pan gasket. I have attached a picture.

Can anybody identify these?

[NISTECH]

Yea I know what both of them are. The top one I believe is the oil pan gasket for a 240 and the bottom one is an oil pan gasket for a D21 truck.

Tp install them properly, grab both of them head over to the corner of you garage, place them in the round reciprical for delievery to your local landfill. Gaskets are not required for the oil pan. Most aftermarket generic kits include the unneccesary pan gasket.

[Touchdown038]

Haha can do, into the trash can they go.

Next question: does it matter which way the rod bearing caps are installed? If so, do you align the slits in the cap with the slits in the rod or align the slits on opposite sides?

[NISTECH]

Use RTV to seal the pan.

I am not sure what slits you are refferring to??

[zero_gripS13]

both the slits on the rod bearings and the rod cap bearing are ment to be on the same side..

also make sure u use the right caps for the right rod..id put that rod in the cylinder it came out of but since ur using new pistons thats not really a problem..

[s13sr20chris]

yeah, all rod caps are one way. the rod is actually line bored as one piece and mixing rod caps or turning them around is no good. the slits are locking tangs and they are supposed to sit on each other so the bearing wont want to spin either way.

[Touchdown038]

Alright, aligned properly.

Next question: how do I remove the rear seal from the carrier? A hammer and a screwdriver wouldn't budge it. Is there a trick or something to make it a bit easier?

[s13sr20chris]

i use the hammer and screwdriver method.

[Touchdown038]

Alright, got that done. Vice grips were my friend this time.

Next question: there are currently no studs on the exhaust ports of my engine head. I had the machine shop drill out any (possible) broken studs and helicoil the threads. So my question is can I use hardware store bolts on all 8 holes, or do I need to go to the dealer and pick up 4 studs and nuts, as well as 4 new bolts?

I just got the idea that this type of Q and A might be too random for one thread; if this is the case, let me know, and I'll make new threads with different titles.

[NISTECH]

Actually I think your posting method is ok as it involves the same job. When its all said and done its kind of a Q&A on engine rebuilding.

As far as the bolts go I wouldn't use standard hareware store bolts unless it clearly states its "hardened steel" other wise go to the dealer and pick up the hardware. You dont have to use the studs if you dont want you can go all bolts if you like.

[s13sr20chris]

i reccomend the stockers.

[Touchdown038]

Alright, I need to take a trip to the dealer tomorrow anyways so I'll add those on. I was also thinking about new nuts for the rod bolts too... necessary?

Next question: I'm sure that when I took the rear main seal housing out, there was RTV on it. Well my gasket kit contains a seal for it. Should I toss it and use RTV?

Opposite thing for the EGR to mounting bracket. I could have sworn there was a gasket in there, but there isn't one in my gasket kit. Should I check at the dealer while I'm there?

[NISTECH]

Alright, I need to take a trip to the dealer tomorrow anyways so I'll add those on. I was also thinking about new nuts for the rod bolts too... necessary?

Not a bad idea

Next question: I'm sure that when I took the rear main seal housing out, there was RTV on it. Well my gasket kit contains a seal for it. Should I toss it and use RTV?

This depends on what seal your talking about. There may or may not be a gasket between the engine block and the plate. It depends on the design or the main seal plate. I dont think the 240 has a pan lip seal as I think it rests flat against the pan. But if the pan has a half moon drop that allows the rear main retainer plate to sit in, then there is a rubber lip seal that goes there.

Opposite thing for the EGR to mounting bracket. I could have sworn there was a gasket in there, but there isn't one in my gasket kit. Should I check at the dealer while I'm there?

on your egr it is a 2 peice deal. the egr base plat mounts to the intake manifold and has a geasket between it and the manifold. The egr mounts to the base plate there is also a gasket there.

[s13sr20chris]

btw on rear mains...i goop those suckers up with the orange goodness.

[Touchdown038]

Alright I've finally gotten around to building the motor after two awesome weeks of vacation. I've gotten all four pistons installed, and I realized the crank is pretty damn hard to turn by hand, ie grabbing the slanted gear on the crank with my hand and turning it.

Is this normal? I would think that the rings would account for most of this, but I wouldn't think this much...

[180fan]

My guess is your bearings. Pull your pistons/rods off from the crank and turn it. If it's still difficult to turn (assuming you did put motor oil or assembly lube) then your main bearings are too tight.

If the crank spins freely, check your rod bearings. They are too tight.

Your rings, did you just cram them on the piston and shove them into the block without checking the gap? If so, you're looking for premature wear on your cylinder walls. Check them with feeler gauges before putting them onto the pistons. Put the ring into the bore, make it straight in the bore and check the gap.

[Touchdown038]

The main bearings I checked with Plastigage awhile back, turned out to be .0015". Before the pistons/rods were installed on the crank it turned fine, so those aren't a problem. The rod bearings had similar results with the Plastigage, so I'd like to say the bearings are fine.

I did not check the ring end gaps, I just assumed that since they were standard size rings with a standard size bore that they would be fine.

I did install the bolt with washer into the end of the crank and it turns fine that way, requiring very little effort on the end of the ratchet to turn it however much I need, it's just when I grab it with my hand that it is hard.

[s13sr20chris]

it's just when I grab it with my hand that it is hard.

thats normal. if you can turn it by hand at all you are ok. still a good idea to go back and check those end gaps(but i have skipped it before-warranty). put some marvel mystery oil on those cyl walls. that is the best lube(imho) for ring seating on a rebuild.

[Touchdown038]

Alright, hopefully close to last question here.

So the engine (and transmission) is out of the car. I've swapped everything over that I want to keep from the pulled motor, and now I'm having trouble lining up the transmission mounting plate to the block. On the motor that was in my car there was an unthreaded stud that held the plate on, but on the rebuilt motor there isn't one.

Also, the transmission mounting plates that make up the bottom of the circle, the bolt holes for those don't line up quite right.

Is there something I'm missing here? Any tips?

[180fan]

is the hole for that pin on the new block? If so, pull it from the old and hammer it into the new one.

[Touchdown038]

Bump... got the engine installed and filled with fluids; not long afterwards I looked under and found a very slow drip of oil from the pan. It looks like it's coming from the seal between the pan and the block, although the pan does look a little bit bent.

What to do? Hammer out the dent, or apply some sealant on the outside of the pan, or what?

[180fan]

Use a rubber mallet and wood block (something thin to fit in that small space that's between the pan and that small bent lip like thing). Pop off the pan and reapply RTV