Post by
fbodtrek »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/fbodtrek-u30171.html
Sun Sep 11, 2005 8:10 pm
WEll, coming from a mechanic in Texas (me), you're prolly looking at prolly 600 in labor to rebuild, prolly 200 for R&R, adn maybe 200 for machine cost. The required bearings, headgasket, and new rings will all together run you about 250. Buy some forged slugs for the KAE motor, don't use OEM replacements, they have minor design flaws counterproductive to a H.O. motor. Get that C.R. around 10.9-11.3, and run pump gas with a set of s13 cams. Port match the intake manifold the the head for a few extra CFM. If you are gonna go all out, replace the valvetrain (pay a machine shop to do it, get a warranty too). HAve them knife edge the intake port "splitter" as well (the venturi effect it will assist in will increase intake cahrge velocity=more torque). With a fresh motor, 11:1 compression, some minor clean up on the head, and the early KADE cams, you could prolly put 175-190 at the wheels, assuming you have the bolton stuff, and a bit of A/F calibration done. Expect a reliable, STURDY build like I described to run no less than 2K (again, this is in Texas). I plan on doing this with my current motor after the ring lands let go (I run dope on my KADE). WHen/if you do this buildup, be sure to take it to a chassis dyno and let everybody know what kinda numebrs it makes... there's a lot of debate about the NA potential of these motors, and no solid evidence to prove one way or another.