rear toe adjustment assistance needed

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jp86
Posts: 15
Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2005 7:41 am
Car: 89 s13 black hb
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ok folks..here'e the deal..i dropped my car on coilovers and got rear camber arms, and got an alignment. and found my rear toe to be -0.42" left rear and -.34" right rear.

now I just got my adjustable rear toe arms and need to know how much to adjust them, I know they need to be longer then my oem toe arms but by how much exactly?

what i need to know is how my rear toe is measured??

-is the 0.42" the difference between the most frontward edge of the rim and the most rearward edge of the rim??

-or is it the difference between the center of the rim to the most frontward edge..

-or is adjustment gonna be a ratio of the measured toe because the rear toe arm is 2/3 the way fron the rim centerline to the most rearward edge of the rim?

or is the 0.42" exactly the amount I need to lengthen the toe arm to get 0 toe

the reason why i'm asking this is that I need to install these myself because the nearest alingment shop is 2 hours drive away, and with that kinda rear toe I don't wanna drive on my brand new rubber that far again.

jp


Q45tech
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Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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When you lower the static ride height, the rear toe curve just like the front toe curve SHAPE changes.

The front creates bump steer* as does the rear because the curve is no longer symetrical..........due to the no longer optimal pick up points of where the toe arms connect. to subframes!

Static alignment is MISALIGNMENT to compensate for THRUST as the forces [traveling 60 mph] deform the rubber isolation bushings.

* tie rod steering arms no longer level [rack lower than hub attachment point]..............samething with rear toe arms. So that when body moves up by amount lower over a bump the toe/steering goes more positive [back to orginal position.

Nissan oem has an "automatic" toe in under braking or deceleration as forces deform rear toe arm bushings to increase deceleration stability........also toe out on acceleration.........lowering will distrupt the fine tuning of this function.

Lowering often causes severe problems and upsets fine tuning

Q45tech
Moderator
Posts: 14296
Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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The abovve is camber but it should get the point across. Here is toe curve

Q45tech
Moderator
Posts: 14296
Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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Things sellers of lowering springs don't want you to know.Many times lowering causes so many problems compare to the tiny gains.

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corn322
Posts: 1572
Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2003 10:11 am
Car: 1993 240sx
Location: Austin, TX

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how far would you have to drop the car for this to be a serious issue?

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Red coupe
Posts: 12216
Joined: Wed Sep 15, 2004 6:51 pm
Car: 92 Nissan 240sx Coupe

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Q45 have I told you lately that I love you? Seriously though nice graphs you post are always appreciated.

Corn I have heard a few people say 1.5" as a rule of thumb but Is stock optimal? or are there gains for the first bit of lowering before the negitives start to outweigh them

jp86
Posts: 15
Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2005 7:41 am
Car: 89 s13 black hb
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ok well that is all great info with fancy graphs and such, but it's all stuff I knew, my car is low and yes it's not optimal but that's the way i like it. what i was asking was how much to adjust my toe arms but I already got the answer in the mech forum.

thanks anyway

jp

Q45tech
Moderator
Posts: 14296
Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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Unless you measure and graph your rear toe steer, how do you know were to start............where to mis set toe [statically sitting still] so that at a steady speed you have zero toe.

This is a serious problem when people replace oem bushings with solid or even harder bushings..............don't need toe in if the toe doesn't change [doesn't go more positive from negative] under load.

Same with bushing wear how much MORE/Less toe in than published does one need?


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