You guys might want to check if this has happened to you as well.

I had my car on jack stands and noticed the rear subframe was loose.

How'd you fix it or what is the fix? Are we looking at the gap between the cylinder/disk?

Ilya wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 28, 2021 8:28 am

How'd you fix it or what is the fix? Are we looking at the gap between the cylinder/disk?

I didn't yet. I'll do it after i receive my Z1 bushing collars so i can install it and tighten up at the same time.

Well this sucks. I was prepping the rear to install the bushing collars that will be delivered later today and see the nuts holding the subframe are tight so that just means the bushings are shot. Anyone know where they sell just the bushings?

This is a dead bushing

Well, I'm going to spend $100 to try and save $1500. Picked up some poly bushings that I hope will fit. I can't seem to find an aftermarket poly diff bushing
those q50 folks need to start breaking their subframe bushings

This looks promising. The poly bushings i bought looks like they'll fit with a slight modification. The front looks like it'll fit up as is, but the rear looks like it'll need two 3/16" spacers to fit up properly.

I'll swap them out after I get my prop shaft recall completed.





I was thinking of just cutting off that top flange and using the stock isolation ring since it's 3/8" thick, but the bushing would protrude a bit on the top and i didn't want the subframe to have that extra amount of movement so I'm looking at finding either aluminum spacers or delrin spacers.

Yoda's Master wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 13, 2021 6:09 pm

i didn't want the subframe to have that extra amount of movement so I'm looking at finding either aluminum spacers or delrin spacers.

Try McMaster-Carr and not the parts store, they have more kinds of offbeat washers and spacers than anyplace else in the western world.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 13, 2021 6:15 pm

Yoda's Master wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 13, 2021 6:09 pm

i didn't want the subframe to have that extra amount of movement so I'm looking at finding either aluminum spacers or delrin spacers.

Try McMaster-Carr and not the parts store, they have more kinds of offbeat washers and spacers than anyplace else in the western world.

Their checkout process sucks and shipping isn't as cheap to me than it is to you so I'm scouring the internets and local places for material. I think i might just cut off that flange and got with a 3/8" thick spacer instead of two 3/16" spacers.

Teaser

What do you guys think about the diff bushing? It hasn't blown yet, but also doesn't look too good.



I think I'm going to pop it.

Looks like it's dried out and fixing to tear, I'd say replace it while you have it off the car anyway.

I wish there's aftermarket solution out there, but there's not. Gonna just pop it and poly fill the cavity.

Yoda's Master wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 05, 2021 12:12 pm

I wish there's aftermarket solution out there, but there's not. Gonna just pop it and poly fill the cavity.

Better than nothin'.

Yoda - Measure the diameter of the Diff bushing....I have a solid bushing (g37) sitting on my desk as a paper weight. Would love to know if it is the same diameter. I could even send you it to see if it fits (Its solid aluminum so I'm not sure you'd want that for NVH)

ken in az wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 07, 2021 9:51 am

Yoda - Measure the diameter of the Diff bushing....I have a solid bushing (g37) sitting on my desk as a paper weight. Would love to know if it is the same diameter. I could even send you it to see if it fits (Its solid aluminum so I'm not sure you'd want that for NVH)

Thanks Ken, but it doesn't. I checked that already and the M diff bushing diameter is about double at 90mm diameter x 66mm long.
I cleaned off the surface rust, gave it a coat of paint, popped the the silly-cone sacs, and washed it as best as i could. My poly is on the fedex truck out for delivery. The 1 week cure time sucks.

I think it looks a lot better now

That looks amazing! What poly did you used for the repair?

C6Joe1957 wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 09, 2021 9:36 am

That looks amazing! What poly did you used for the repair?

I used this https://www.suspension.com/diymmi
Shore 84A HP. You could probably do with shore 60A.
I used less than half the can so lots of waste. Down side is the 1 week cure time.

Yoda's Master wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 09, 2021 2:48 pm

I used this https://www.suspension.com/diymmi
Shore 84A HP. You could probably do with shore 60A.
I used less than half the can so lots of waste. Down side is the 1 week cure time.

Thanks for the link! It's states that you can cure it faster (18 hours @ 150°F). If you have a big enough oven.

I'm having a bit of a rattle/groaning in the rear and thinking of doing it with the 80A which is a compromise of being a little quieter with some medium stiffness versus the 80A-HP or 94A.

C6Joe1957 wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 09, 2021 6:23 pm

Yoda's Master wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 09, 2021 2:48 pm

I used this https://www.suspension.com/diymmi
Shore 84A HP. You could probably do with shore 60A.
I used less than half the can so lots of waste. Down side is the 1 week cure time.

Thanks for the link! It's states that you can cure it faster (18 hours @ 150°F). If you have a big enough oven.

I'm having a bit of a rattle/groaning in the rear and thinking of doing it with the 80A which is a compromise of being a little quieter with some medium stiffness versus the 80A-HP or 94A.

That's a fine choice as well. You do need to drop the subframe to do the work. You might as well go all the way and replace the other four

Front diff bushing


The gaps looks much better

BTW if your subframe is loose, then you'll want to get that addressed asap. I had to finagle the driver side stay to get it to bolt back up.

Everything is done and the rear end feels very responsive. Acceleration feels quicker and I haven't noticed any additional noise or vibrations.