Rear rotor replacement...how hard???

Post by **ned4spd8874** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

Okay, I finally got my front rotors replaced. It was an interesting experience. Between going through 3 wrenches to break the rusted bolts loose, locking my keys in the car and then getting the slim jim stuck in the door I finally got the fronts replaced!

Now for the back. Now, so long as I keep my keys in hand, would it be as easy to replace the rears? Are they similar to the fronts? Remove the calipers and caliper brackets then just slip it off?

Thanks for the help!

Post by **yeswepromise** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

yes. simple stuff. caliper>rotor>the end.

Post by **sixxdeuce** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

you need a special tool to turn the piston back into the caliper

Post by **Scott McLellan** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

Yeah, I used vice-grips. Just be careful not to grip the part of the piston that is the smooth part. Lightly grip the part that pushes against the brake pad and turn it back in clockwise. Or, you can buy the tool which would be way smarter and safer.

Post by **Scott McLellan** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

As far as getting those bolts loose, I used a 4 foot piece of steel tubing and put a rachet in the end which made it super easy. Also, another way to get a little more torque if you are using combination wrenches is to put another wrench the next size bigger or smaller on the end of the wrench that is on the bolt by putting the open end on the closed end of the other one or vise versa, if that made any sense at all...

Post by **BadMojo** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

Scott McLellan wrote:As far as getting those bolts loose, I used a 4 foot piece of steel tubing and put a rachet in the end which made it super easy.

Or...get a nice breaker bar and some PB Blaster (best stuff ever...just don't injest any of it). At least that's what I do to take car of rusty nuts. Hmmm...that sounds like a good alias. Rusty Nuts.

Post by **ned4spd8874** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

Thanks for the great info guys!

By the way...

I have tried PB Blaster, didn't seem to do too much for me earlier. Maybe I didn't wait long enough or use enough, I don't know.

The wreches that broke were about 2-2 1/2' long, so I had enough leverage, just rusted on!

Also, a friend of mine discouraged me about using a pipe extension like that. That was one of my first thoughts, but he said I could break the bolt doing that.

Anyway...so long as the weather is good and the parts aren't too expensive and in stock, I will be changing them this weekend. Wish me luck!

Post by **LE240** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

I can't remember exactly, but you may need to use a 30mm ?? socket to get the rear rotors off. Also, instead of wrenches, sockets may work much better for what you are doing. Also, try a shorter piece of tubing for leverage. I use one approx. 10 in. long and it works for most bolts etc...I need to loosen. Bill

Post by **LE240** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

Don't foget to use new cotter pins when re-installing......

Post by **ned4spd8874** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

Does it need cotter pins? The front didn't have any.

P.S. Sorry, misspoke, I was using a socket wrench. I used a regular 10" socket wrench, and two 2-2 1/2' socket wreches for the fronts. The 3' breaker bar is what finally got the bolts loose. Oh, yeah, before I forget again...I was thinking that since these are back brakes, I won't be able to turn the wheels. So, would I even be able to get a 2-3' handle in there?

Website · Post by **lbrowne** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

for help easing the pressure of trying to drive the caliper piston back, take the cap off the brake master cylinder...

I've done this on my explorer when I had it and the 240.

Post by **ned4spd8874** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

One more question. I called about the rotor yesturday and they said there was no difference for the se model vs the regular 240sx model. But when I bought the front rotors, there were two different kinds. One for the 240SX model, and the other for the 240SX/SE model. Is there no difference in the rear rotors?

Website · Post by **lbrowne** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

As far as I know they're all the same. I know when i called about my rotors when I was doing the fronts they asked me abs or non abs, either way they were the same.

Post by **bendychicken** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

just to clear some things up. No, no cotter pins are needed, the socket sizes needed are 12mm and 14mm I think. when using PB, you have to spary it on, give the nut/bolt some good taps from different angles to work it in, let it sit for 5 mins, spray and tap again, then brake the bolt loose. It works, trust me. when your retracting the rear caliper pistons, use a set of needle nose pliers to grip those notches on the rim of the face of the piston. push and turn clockwise. you did take the cap off the brake fluid canister right?.........right? you did wipe the rotor down with brake parts cleaner befor you put it on right?

Post by **JuJuBeeee** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

ned4spd8874 wrote:One more question. I called about the rotor yesturday and they said there was no difference for the se model vs the regular 240sx model. But when I bought the front rotors, there were two different kinds. One for the 240SX model, and the other for the 240SX/SE model. Is there no difference in the rear rotors?

reason being is brakes are not different but regular model is 4 lug while SE is 5 lug

thats why....rotors size and dimensions are exactly the same, juss drilled differently

hope that helps

Post by **deftdrummer** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

yeah, all auto parts stores usually ask you "SE" or "base"?

Post by **Hijacker** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

I'm not sure if this applies to the S14, but with my SE, I still have to buy ABS pads even though I don't have ABS. The SE models came with the larger brakes that were included with cars with the ABS package

Post by **ned4spd8874** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

Well, I never got to change the brakes this weekend...long story. Anyway, went to order the rotors and pads and stuff from NAPA on my lunch hour yesturday.

Going back to work and my rear brakes are really loud and not sounding good. Long story short, turns out my pad fell off my caliper somehow! Bought some cheap pads and threw them on. But now my caliper's boot is messed up and worn down on the piston from where it was rubbing on the rotor. OUCH!

Now I gotta buy calipers. UGH! And of course no one has them in stock and it will be weeks until they can get some. So, I turn to the internet. Found some last night for a decent price and ordered them for 2nd day air so I should get them in time for this weekend.

So, has anyone had any experiences ordering online? The only car parts I had ordered online in the past was like spark plugs I think. Nothing of this caliber. So I'm a bit nervous that I will get the wrong part or that they will be some cheap things that won't last very long. I need some reassurace!

Oh yeah, I bought them from: http://www.speedycarparts.com. They say their parts are guaranteed and it was a secure purchase and all that. I'm still a bit nervous though.

Post by **book-ends** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

Hello,

You know, this sounds like a situation where you have to rely on my outlook on life: Always plan for the absolute worst thing that can happen! For instance, you ordered the rear calipers, but "speedyparts" sent you the front for a Blazer......or they're the right parts, but you end up breaking the end of your spindle off some how. Whatever.......... As long as none of that happens, you should be pleasantly surprised!

I have loved working on my car ever since I switched up to that philosophy. Just out of curiosity, are the calipers factory new or rebuilds? I was thinking about going the "rebuild" route on front calipers from a 300ZX......... just wondering about the quality.

Good luck!

Post by **ned4spd8874** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

LOL....I'll have to try that philosophy. Actually, I have no idea if they are new or rebuilds. They are $115.00 each, but that's about normal for the stores around here for rebuilds. Would be nice if they were new, but at this point, I want to have them in my hands to get this nightmare done and over with!

Post by **f8sjester** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

on a side note:

roll your windows down before working on the car so you don't have to worry about getting locked out. . .

it's the simple things that make life easier. . .

Post by **Scott McLellan** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

I don't know it this would have worked in your case, but I ordered a rebuild kit from a parts store for my back calipers for $15 or something because my rubber dust seals (outside ones) were cracked. Getting rebuilt calipers isn't a bad idea though. I purchased rebuilt 300zx calipers from the parts store and they work just fine. Make sure you replace those washers that go on either side of the banjo fitting on the brake line, too. I'm not sure where you can get those though. Probly parts store? Good luck.

Post by **ned4spd8874** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 3:05 pm

Thanks for the info on the keys! GREAT IDEA!!!

Just rub it in!

Anyway. I got the calipers today (quick!!!!!). They are rebuilds, but they are also loaded which is a nice bonus. And they also come with everything. And by everything, I mean everything. Pads, those slider bolts and even a bracket. More than expected so that's cool. (So long as they're good parts.)

One question though. They don't look the same. On one the emergency brake part is really long. Like 6" longer than the other one. I don't remember that. But then again, they weren't off the car so that may be why. Just checking.

Thanks again for all your help!

Rear rotor replacement...how hard???

Rear rotor replacement...how hard???

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