Rear rotor removal

[Kornkidz]

I searched but god im lost. i need to change my hub bolts but i cant get my rotor off. i dont even know what im doinG! do i have to remove this bolt in the middle? i've been at this since 8:am all day i've been chasing extended bolts and buying tools i dont have. please help me!
Modified by Kornkidz at 4:28 PM 10/10/2006

[adrianfromthecastle]

rotors should just come right off once the wheel and caliper is off. just pull it off hard. haha.. maybe try kickin the rotor a couple times to loosen it up.

[adrianfromthecastle]

also, it might help if you cut off the dust pan thingy behind the rotor, so that way after you pound off the stock lugs, you can hammer the extended lugs from the back.

p.s. automotive grease is your friend when pounding in the extended lugs

[Kornkidz]

Thanks for the response,should i pull off the whole rotor? or just smack those wheel studs? i appreciate your help

Long beach, i stay off the 605 and firestone you stay around this area? have you every heard of JDM mondays?
Modified by Kornkidz at 4:54 PM 10/10/2006

[adrianfromthecastle]

Thanks for the response,should i pull off the whole rotor? or just smack those wheel studs? i appreciate your help

Long beach, i stay off the 605 and firestone you stay around this area? have you every heard of JDM mondays?

Modified by Kornkidz at 4:44 PM 10/10/2006

JDM mondays? umm.. i know about the meets on mondays, is that what your talking about? my gf lives off of florence and 605, pretty close. yeah, you need to take off the rotors anyways.

[Kornkidz]

alright man, yeah its a meet on woodruff ave in between ipmerial and firestone. its called friscos its a car hop or something. lots of cars on monday its pretty neat.

i got everything off and i took a trip to sears got the mallet and the studs are off. my new dilema is that i cant get those ext studs on all the way. i cant even hammer those suckers.

[adrianfromthecastle]

try it with a hammer and a chizzle or like some other thing to contact the lug. use automotive grease too. you wanna make sure you get it in all the way.. or else your gonna regret it. if you want, you should get some kind of metal cutter and cut off the pan behind the rotor to get some leverage

[nismoracingsx]

can't you just screw on a lug nut (w/o wheel on) and tighten it to pull the stud through the rotor?? Thats what i did when i had to replace mine and it worked fine (i made the mistake of lettin my gf drive my car >.> lol)

[Kornkidz]

alright, now i got my back two wheels done so far. my brakes are on. my new problem is that when i installed everything and test drove it. its seems my rear e-brake works for NOTHING, and when i had my brother look at my tires lock up he said only the fronts lock. Im assuming that the back brakes are not working.

- i did not bleed them. i dont really know how to either..-maybe i can just adjust them or somehthing?

Anyone please help!
Modified by Kornkidz at 11:13 PM 10/10/2006

[180fan]

Rear rotors - you see those two holes in the rotor, those are for some bolts you can thread through there and effectively press the rotor off if it's stuck on there.

No ebrake action - did you make sure the ebrake was hooked to the bottom of the rear calipers? also you will need to adjust them ala the hole at the under side of the ebrake handle. It's a 10mm sized nut under there you can use to adjust the ebrake.

bleed the ebrake? it's from a cable. Did you disconnect any of the hydraulic lines when you worked on your brakes?

[Kornkidz]

did you make sure the ebrake was hooked to the bottom of the rear calipers??

I never un hooked them, should i have?

Did you disconnect any of the hydraulic lines when you worked on your brakes?

I dont think i did i just took some bolts off to get the caliper off.

i was asking about just bleeding the brakes. cause it seems like the rear are not working. maybe air in the lines or something?

[180fan]

you're not supposed to unless you want to fiddle with your ebrake stuff. It's a pita to get back on right if you did pull it. So yeah I'm glad you didn't.

The brakes or the ebrake? If the rear calipers aint working, I'd give the lines a good ol' fashioned bleeding. Start from the drivers rear, pass rear, pass front then lastly the drivers front for bleeding order.

[Kornkidz]

you're not supposed to unless you want to fiddle with your ebrake stuff. It's a pita to get back on right if you did pull it. So yeah I'm glad you didn't.

The brakes or the ebrake? If the rear calipers aint working, I'd give the lines a good ol' fashioned bleeding. Start from the drivers rear, pass rear, pass front then lastly the drivers front for bleeding order.

Yea!! alright, todays my day off so im going at this head on. Thanks for that tip and the bleeding order! i will start working on it right now,

[ricebike]

soo how'd it go?

if you still wanna take the rusted-on rotor from the hub... besides trying to find the right thread-pitched bolts to go into the 2 holes to "push" the rotor off the hub...

after you got the caliper carrier member off, like in the pic, there's enough room to bang it off w/ a hammer from the inside out...

you've got enough room from the dust-shield cutout area (towards the front of the car) to bang it a few~ then turn the whole hub/rotor assembly ~ bang it again ~ turn~ repeat until it gets "loose" & finally pull it off.

I wire brush the rust off the mating surfaces & used some grease between the hub surface & inside rotor hat to prevent further rusting/seizure~ heck u can coat it w/ anti-seize if you want.



how'd the bleeding process worked out for ya?

i did this last weekend (rehab my whole system) except for taking out the rear hoses; the fitting between the metal line-hose were on there, even w/ an overnight-soaking of PBblaster... & i didn't wanna strip it so I let it be for now.

i also used "gravity bleeding" & it worked out for me! since i had no one else to help me do the 2-person bleeding.

don't over-torque those little bleeders! only like 5.5 ft lbs is needed...