Rear right brake get hot

[infobloke]

Hi everyone,

Having installed new brakes and made a bed-in procedure, I took the car for a test drive.
I drove my EX35 for about 10 minutes on a highway without applying brakes at all. After I pulled over, I checked the rear rotors’ temperature. While the driver side rotor was cool to touch, the passenger side one was definitively hot.
I repeated the test after a while, and got the same result. Eventually, I took the car to a mechanic. He checked if everything was proper: the caliper is not seized up (I could even push the piston in with my bare fingers, not tools needed!), the guide pins are properly lubed, measured the rotor runout. I did the test drive again. Same result, in fact, I measured the temperature with a meat thermometer. The left one read 34C, the right one was above 100C!
The mechanic says he is puzzled and doesn't know what could it be. I even took the car to a dealership. I talked with a guy in the service, described the situation, and he said, in his opinion, that is still the caliper to blame.

Oh, by the way, the rotor shows some scraping marks, but only on the inner side.

What do you guys think?

Thanks!

[themadscientist]

Make sure the stack of plates on the pads is correct and/or something didn't shift around during install and wedge itself. The force that pulls the pads back when you release the brake is incredibly slight. Any sort of binding will leave it dragging enough to see what you are seeing.

[NJGuy]

A few questions:
Did you use OEM or aftermarket parts?
Did you check, clean and lube the metal clips that the pad ears sit in?

I still think you might have a caliper issue, or maybe something is wrong with the brake line. I hope you get to the bottom of this. Good luck.

[infobloke]

A few questions:
Did you use OEM or aftermarket parts?
Did you check, clean and lube the metal clips that the pad ears sit in?

I still think you might have a caliper issue, or maybe something is wrong with the brake line. I hope you get to the bottom of this. Good luck.

I used aftermarket parts. However, being desperate, I swapped back first, the pads, then the rotor. All the same still. And yes, I did clean everything, etc. Pads slide from a light touch, the caliper glides on guide pins with little resistance, etc.

Essentially, I'm torn between two possibilities: the caliper is still sticking because the piston maybe sliding at a very light angle, or the issue is much more complicated, such as a valve in the ABS actuator is sticking, or something is wrong with VDC/LDP, which can pump the brakes without my intervention. I'm leaning towards the simpler of the two.

[NJGuy]

I used aftermarket parts. However, being desperate, I swapped back first, the pads, then the rotor. All the same still. And yes, I did clean everything, etc. Pads slide from a light touch, the caliper glides on guide pins with little resistance, etc.

Essentially, I'm torn between two possibilities: the caliper is still sticking because the piston maybe sliding at a very light angle, or the issue is much more complicated, such as a valve in the ABS actuator is sticking, or something is wrong with VDC/LDP, which can pump the brakes without my intervention. I'm leaning towards the simpler of the two.

To rule out the VDC and LDP, have you tried driving with the systems disabled?

I agree that it might be the caliper. I don't like the idea of throwing parts at an issue in the hope of getting it resolved, but I don't know if there's a way to be sure without replacing the caliper.

[infobloke]

I used aftermarket parts. However, being desperate, I swapped back first, the pads, then the rotor. All the same still. And yes, I did clean everything, etc. Pads slide from a light touch, the caliper glides on guide pins with little resistance, etc.

Essentially, I'm torn between two possibilities: the caliper is still sticking because the piston maybe sliding at a very light angle, or the issue is much more complicated, such as a valve in the ABS actuator is sticking, or something is wrong with VDC/LDP, which can pump the brakes without my intervention. I'm leaning towards the simpler of the two.

To rule out the VDC and LDP, have you tried driving with the systems disabled?

I agree that it might be the caliper. I don't like the idea of throwing parts at an issue in the hope of getting it resolved, but I don't know if there's a way to be sure without replacing the caliper.

Yes, I did. All the same. What I meant is that the brakes get pumped somehow regardless of what the control system is doing. Such as when some valve is leaking. But that would be the last thing to check. I'll start with getting a new caliper.

[NJGuy]

Yes, I did. All the same. What I meant is that the brakes get pumped somehow regardless of what the control system is doing. Such as when some valve is leaking. But that would be the last thing to check. I'll start with getting a new caliper.

Gotcha.

Hopefully it's just a simple problem that'll get fixed with the caliper change. Please update us after it's done.