Rear Passenger wheel hit curb while turning. Now have lots of codes

[darylzero]

I was making a right turn and the street I was driving on was at a 45 degree angle. Not really important but during that turn my right rear passenger wheel hit the curb pretty good. I pulled over a couple blocks later and looked and didn't see any damage.

No lights on the dash at this time. I then drove about 5 miles. Few hours later drove back home and getting off the highway the off ramp had like a 10 degree up slope. Weirdly enough going up the ramp I thought is the transmission not shifting...didn't 'feel' right. Then I get to the top and all these lights on the dash light up. ABS, AWD, VDC, Brake, and something else.

So long story short now I have these codes: C1105, C1210, C1203

Did I break a speed senor or something else?

Thanks.

[VStar650CL]

C1105 is definitely the wheel sensor. The C1203 is definitely derivative, the AWD is yapping because the ABS quit transmitting the vehicle speed. The C1210 also looks likely to be derivative, it may be from the ECM reacting to the ABS being offline, then the AWD reacting to that. I'd change the wheel sensor and check the reluctor ring, see if that makes it all go away. I think it will.

[darylzero]

C1105 is definitely the wheel sensor. The C1203 is definitely derivative, the AWD is yapping because the ABS quit transmitting the vehicle speed. The C1210 also looks likely to be derivative, it may be from the ECM reacting to the ABS being offline, then the AWD reacting to that. I'd change the wheel sensor and check the reluctor ring, see if that makes it all go away. I think it will.

Thanks Vstar!

I haven't looked at any diagrams yet because I didn't want to deal with this tonight. Is the speed sensor relatively easy to change? Also, where would the reluctor ring be? behind the hub? Take off the brake caliper and caliper bracket to see this?
I live in the rust belt so I'm guessing this will be kind of a pain in the @ss.

[VStar650CL]

They're easy if they come out clean. Since it took a whack, it's possible the bearing and hub are screwed, but you try a sensor first because they can and do fail from shock and it's the cheapest out. If that doesn't resolve it, then you start looking at other stuff.

[VStar650CL]

PS - The reluctor ring (tone ring if you like) is inside the hub, the sensor points at it. That's why a screwed wheel bearing can also cause sensor codes.

[darylzero]

PS - The reluctor ring (tone ring if you like) is inside the hub, the sensor points at it. That's why a screwed wheel bearing can also cause sensor codes.

Got it. Thanks again.

The price range I'm seeing for the speed sensor is crazy anywhere from $16 - $170 damn

[darylzero]

Oddly enough drove it today and no lights on the dash. I ordered a cheap speed sensor on Amazon for about $36.

I guess I'll wait and see what happens. Probably will light up the dash tomorrow.

[darylzero]

OK, this is crazy.

So I never did anything about this because the lights never came back ON.

Now, a few days ago all the lights came on, VDC off / AWD / ABS / and BRAKE a few times.

I cleared the codes at least 3 different times and they always came right back.

I took the wheel off and inspected everything and it looked fine. Tried to take the speed sensor out to check it, but it wouldn't budge and I didn't want to break it without having a new speed sensor ready. So put the tire back on and figured I would order a speed sensor. (My local dealer wanted $265 for one! I told him to get the F out of here.

It snowed a week ago or so and my black car has been pretty much white. lol. A lot of salt. So I go to the car wash today and I get back in my car once they are done and all the lights are OFF! LOL what the hell? Was there a giant piece of salt stuck in the tone ring or something?

[VStar650CL]

Was there a giant piece of salt stuck in the tone ring or something?

That's entirely possible. Not the tone ring, but if the sensor insulation is compromised then salty water will definitely screw it up and clean water will probably unscrew it. In fact, spraying a 5% salt solution and looking for signal changes with a scope is a pretty common way to test electrical circuits for intrusion. Most people think water is electrically conductive, but that's a myth. Distilled water has a resistance around 180K ohms per meter, for practical purposes it's an insulator. It's the impurities which render it conductive. Drinking water is 2~200 ohms/m, depending largely on the chlorine and mineral content. Seawater is generally 0.2 ohms/m, which is about 4 times more conductive than a typical spark coil primary. In a salt state, that's pretty much what was underneath your car.

[darylzero]

Well it was to good to be true, came back the next day.

Got 2 different speed senors and will hopefully change this weekend. One of them looks to be too short, but we'll see.

Sanity check, one of the codes is: C1105 RR RH Sensor-2. That is Passenger rear correct?

[VStar650CL]

Correct.

[darylzero]

Thanks vstar.

Got some time last night to replace the speed sensor. Wasn't much fun in a 15 degree garage. I had douched the speed sensor in PB Blaster a week before and again the day before. That did nothing. This thing wouldn't budge. Ended up having to drill it all out. Kinda nervous because it was hard to tell how far down to drill. It was rusted the entire way down on all sides. Ended up nicking the tone ring. Everything seems ok so far though. Turned the car on and all the lights were gone on the dash.

I used this one, $19 on Amazon, we'll see how long it lasts: A-Premium Rear Left or Right ABS Wheel Speed Sensor - Compatible with Nissan Models - Rogue 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013, AWD - Rear Driver or Passenger Side, Replaces 47900-1DC1A

[VStar650CL]