Rear Main Seal.
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00_Altima MD
- Posts: 289
- Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 6:58 am
- Car: 2004 Sentra SE-R Spec V
Rear Main Seal.
I was just wondering if anyone on here has done this before? Replaced the rear main seal, b/c i am going to be doing that here in the next couple of days. Just something to talk about since this forum is so dead it seems like.
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Nismo_Freak
- Posts: 10314
- Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 10:42 pm
- Car: 89 Nissan 240SX
It's not that difficult, no real specialty tools required just a little labor.
Basically start with the front wheels and work your way down through the drive axles. You will want a prybar and an 1/2" impact if possible to make life easy. Once you get that all remove you need to pull the transmission, unbolt the mounts, you will need to support the engine. Remove the transmission, then it's time to remove the clutch and flywheel to get down to the rear main housing. I would suggest putting threadlocker on the flywheel (or flexplate) bolts when they go back on. Reassemble everything with the correct torque specs as alot of these smaller bolts on the clutch and flywheel have a tendency to snap if not torqued properly and that is a VERY big safety hazard.
Feel free to ask more questions if needed. I'm just giving you a broad idea of what you are getting into.
Some things you might also want to replace and/or check while you are there.
- Clutch Job (pilot bushing, TO bearing, etc.)- Flywheel (aftermarket)- Clutch Line (www.splparts.com has a stainless one for the Altimas)- Drain and Refill clutch line fluid (helps to refresh the pedal feel)- Check Master and Slave for leaks- Axle CV Boots (repair / replace / inspect)- Axle Seals- Trans fluid (suggest Redline GL4 fluid)
Basically start with the front wheels and work your way down through the drive axles. You will want a prybar and an 1/2" impact if possible to make life easy. Once you get that all remove you need to pull the transmission, unbolt the mounts, you will need to support the engine. Remove the transmission, then it's time to remove the clutch and flywheel to get down to the rear main housing. I would suggest putting threadlocker on the flywheel (or flexplate) bolts when they go back on. Reassemble everything with the correct torque specs as alot of these smaller bolts on the clutch and flywheel have a tendency to snap if not torqued properly and that is a VERY big safety hazard.
Feel free to ask more questions if needed. I'm just giving you a broad idea of what you are getting into.
Some things you might also want to replace and/or check while you are there.
- Clutch Job (pilot bushing, TO bearing, etc.)- Flywheel (aftermarket)- Clutch Line (www.splparts.com has a stainless one for the Altimas)- Drain and Refill clutch line fluid (helps to refresh the pedal feel)- Check Master and Slave for leaks- Axle CV Boots (repair / replace / inspect)- Axle Seals- Trans fluid (suggest Redline GL4 fluid)
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00_Altima MD
- Posts: 289
- Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 6:58 am
- Car: 2004 Sentra SE-R Spec V
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s13sr20chris
- Posts: 4148
- Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 9:32 am
- Car: '89 Nissan S13 w/redtop running 13psi and not leaking fuel anymore
- Contact:
Re: (00_Altima MD)
if you cant get the trans back up in the car(real problem with autos) dont dispair. you can get a low lift trans jack for $100 if you search around on the internet. on altimas the biggest problem to get trans out is the transmission mount. it can be tough to get to and you have to get all the bolts out to wiggle that transmission out. if you dont feel like supporting the engine you can keep the crossmember in the car to hold the motor up with just the 3 motor mounts.