Rear drum brakes

[VG33QX4]

160,000 miles. Rear drums squeaking at slow speeds. Almost grinding sounds. I inspected an they do not seem severly worn. I plan on replacing the shoes due to squeaks and age, however I am unsure if I should replace the drums. I just wanted an opinion on this.

[Chuck Tribolet]

Did you lube per the FSM?

[VG33QX4]

I did not. The system looks brand new but ibuave been in possession of this car since new and know the shies have never been replaced. It only squeaks or at least I can only hear it at very low speeds

[Buzzman]

I have my rear brakes checked and cleaned/serviced on a regular basis, and have yet to replace the shoes or drums. Still all original, and only half worn. That amazes me really. And they are still in the proper adjustment.
My parking/hand brake (which I use all the time), has never needed adjusting either.
2002 Pathy with 240,000 Kms.

[VG33QX4]

mine look a little less than half left.

[ARKQX33V6]

At 1/2 left it is more than time to clean up. These brakes will last a very long time if you care for them. EG is the mileage above and 250,000km on mine.

To start with the fiber friction material must be cleaned from glaze, a sanding with sand paper will do nicely, just be clean, even pressure and also knock off barbs and material at leading and trailing edges of the shoes.

Clean up the drums, sand paper is OK, then clean out with brake cleaner then measure the drum diameter with an accurate depth gauge and see that they are still within spec. Inspect the drum inside and outside, remove rust build up.

You need to lubricate the shoes at 3 points, the manual will show where, but you do not need to take apart.

After sanding the surfaces, use a flat blade large screwdriver to lift the shoes separately at the point of lubrication and with another smaller flat screwdriver and high temperature anti-seize, place a dab at the location specifies then drop the shoe back into place, do all 6 spots, then lubricate the E brake spring and cable at the wheel assembly entrance.

After cleaning and lubricating, now spray brake cleaner on a clean rag and wipe the brake shoes friction surface and the 6 areas clean and clear of any lube, the lube should only be between the shoe metal and metal backing plate.

Clean all brake dust off (wear a dust mask) clean the brake cylinders, inspect the cylinders for leaks, inspect the axle seals for leaks.

With no leaks any where of oil, hypoid oil, brake fluid and all is clean, use a hammer handle to slightly bang on the shoes to confirm movement then put the shoes in square with the wheel so that the dram can be put back.

Keep hands away from friction surfaces, place drum over shoes. If drum has a worn down section where shoes run you may have to use a lathe to clean up the brake surface. With the drum over the shoes turn and push until it seats. It should go on easily but if it is too difficult remove the adjuster plug rubber on the back side of the brake wheel assemble and use either a large flat bladed short screwdriver or adjusting tool to retract the star wheel adjuster to make smaller the shoes diameter and when the drum goes on verify it is all the way on, then readjust the star wheel with both rear wheels raised and feel how tight the drum turns by hand.

A raised rear end with Limited Slip differential will turn both wheels the same direction but will take more effort. Use a wooden stick and the studs as leverage to turn the drum while testing as you adjust the rear brakes. They need to be adjusted fairly snug but not tight you must be able to turn the drum by hand with little effort. Too tight will cause the rear brakes to drag, lock up the diff, eat too much gas. Be very cautious because both sides are working and turning, but you will have free play on each side to feel if the shoes are too tight or too loose.

When done and lowered the e brake should tighten up and hold the car in D or R at about 5 notches. Check the cables and lubrication points for the e brake there is also a nut and bolt adjustment under the handle.

This service is done every 3-6 months and when done regularly becomes easier and not much adjusting but if not done often will be a longer job and you must check your brake fluid reservoir before and after the job, do not fill until after the adjustments.

Brake bleeding should be done on a regular basis and if not be careful not to bust the bleeders from rusting.

[Towncivilian]

I had a "rear brake service" done at Nissan today. The invoice states "NRBS REAR BRAKE SERVICE INSPECTION, INCLUDES CLEAN, ADJUST AS NEEDED INSPECT AND ROAD TEST", cost $39.95 before misc. fees and tax.

It took about an hour, but I also had them visually inspect some other things (suspension, axle, steering components, driveshaft, brake components, rad hoses, drive belts). As for what's actually done during the rear brake service, I'm not sure. For all I know they could have just hosed the drums down with some brake cleaner, adjusted them, and called them done. But it definitely helped; the brake pedal is firmer now and there's a quicker "bite". Parking brake also seems improved. I was having no major issues with the drums though. Service adviser said I had about 50% life left on both front and rear brakes, and at 125,500 miles that seems reasonable for the rear drums. Next time they need servicing I'll probably try it out myself, maybe once I hit 150k or in 2 years when I do a brake flush - or is that too long?

[Chuck Tribolet]

A brake flush every couple of years is fine. Most people never do it, but it's a good idea. Brake fluid absorbs water vapor and that reduces the boiling point. Boiled fluid is no fun. It happened to me in one of Bondurant's 240Z school cars. Fortunately, it was right where the road course gets off the drag strip at Sears Point, and I had a drag strip to use to stop.

[Towncivilian]

I plan on regular maintenance for the brake fluid. My question was how often the rear drums themselves need servicing, sorry for being a bit vague there.

[VG33QX4]

I'm going to change em. New shoes were a whopping 25 bucks Wagner thermoquiets. It never hurts to have fresh material. The original ones are so hard in the morning it will drag the tires in the rear. If it's cold outside. It will hurt your neck to hit the brakes. It's time to change in my opinion

[Towncivilian]

I'm just wondering of the longevity of those Wagner shoes; will they last another 160k miles as OEM did? But then again, they'll probably work fine for a good long time regardless. At $25 they're roughly half the price of a set of OEM shoes.

[VG33QX4]

They are oem replacements. I've used them for years. The pads last as long as oem for sure. I've tried alot of aftermarket pads and have settled on this brand. The shoes I got look way thicker than what I got on the q now

[VG33QX4]

UPDATE : So I replaced them today. Easiest drum brakes I have ever had to change. Anyway. No more squeaks, no more cold grabby crap. Just smooth engagement everytime. Now I have only driven a few miles an I can say it doesnt have the initial hard bite the brakes use too. Probably just need to wear in
P.s. I had to turn the adjuster in about 8 turns or around a quarter inch. I'm only about 4 threads out on the adjuster it was at about 9-10 threads

These are a supposed to be self adjusting correct ?