Rear Differential Plug Removal Tool?

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RoyDaGeneral
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Car: 2002 Infiniti QX4 2WD
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Today I was planning to change rear diff gear oil, but after cleaning around fill plug, I put my 1/2 extension in there but it wasn't nice and snug, and a 3/4 extension would be too big. How do you take this plug off? Also do you apply any kind of adhesive (Loctite) to plug when screwing it back in?

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macgiver
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Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:21 am

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Yup , something that fits very snug IS what you want and outside of finding an "in between 1/2 & 3/4 "drive for it , I've found sometimes a BOLT HEAD will fit very tight - you then "vice grip " IT and voila.
Try all kinds of Metric AND SAE in your junk-box , this may work.
I just use that thick ,yellow,waxy chassis grease , on threads , and it does tend to "seal" OK , and you won't have to gorilla torque it tight -don't do THAT ! :facepalm:

Tip: always FIRST mark the position of these "plugs" , say 12 o'clock ,whatever 6 o'clock , then when you put it back - YOU KNOW WHERE YOU NEED TO BE :rotflmao

RoyDaGeneral
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Car: 2002 Infiniti QX4 2WD
Location: Berkeley, CA

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That's a neat idea to mark current position of plug, awesome! OK, back to my den to figure out an unscrewing solution!

RoyDaGeneral
Posts: 140
Joined: Wed Jun 05, 2019 10:55 am
Car: 2002 Infiniti QX4 2WD
Location: Berkeley, CA

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I was able to make a shimmy, shown here, and mounted it onto 1/2 extension and it fit just right, but I could not get plug to budge. I used my heat gun too, but it was a no go. I guess being under the car gave me little leverage. I don't have a breaker bar, and I was tempted to use my impact gun, but fearing the consequences, I decided to call it a night.

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04pathse
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2008.5 Mazda Mazdaspeed 3

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RoyDaGeneral wrote:
Sat Jul 20, 2019 9:04 pm
I was able to make a shimmy, shown here, and mounted it onto 1/2 extension and it fit just right, but I could not get plug to budge. I used my heat gun too, but it was a no go.
use a propane torch on it, like the ones plumbers use

yeldogt
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Car: 02 Pathfinder 4X LE (X2)

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They can really be on there --- my independent had to use a long pipe as a fulcrum after using penetrating oil for a day

RoyDaGeneral
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I'm thinking of using my small hydraulic jack to tackle the stuck drain plug. I will make a piece of hard wood to place between jack lifting head and the breaker bar I just got to create a secure fit. Basically, I'd be unscrewing plug using truck's weight. Does anyone see a problem with this plan!

R50JR
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Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2017 6:36 pm
Car: 03 pathfinder le

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RoyDaGeneral wrote:
Thu Jul 25, 2019 12:34 pm
I'm thinking of using my small hydraulic jack to tackle the stuck drain plug. I will make a piece of hard wood to place between jack lifting head and the breaker bar I just got to create a secure fit. Basically, I'd be unscrewing plug using truck's weight. Does anyone see a problem with this plan!
no problem with that, I've done it many times. Just make sure while you are lifting the breaker bar it is going straight up and not shifting so the tool doesn't slip out of drain plug and round it out.

macgiver
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Video this for poserity , a keepsake method or a disaster ?? :rolleyes:

Who's the Drain-plug next of kin ........ need to be notified ? :ohno:

macgiver
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What did the broken drainplug on the floor say to the dripping differential ?

Not a rhetorical question , but is it maybe should be answered ? Maybe not EVEN a joke me bloke :rotfl

macgiver
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This "stuff" is just how harbor fright got started.

yeldogt
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The pipe and fulcrum is a better idea as you have more control w/o the danger.

Use plenty of penetrating oil and let it sit -- do it a few times over many days.... it will come free.

macgiver
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If it's during many days - light to medium hits with a 1/2 LB Ball peen hammer ,all around circumference before & after applications of the penetrating oil - aids in penetrating of the penetrating oil into the treads .

RoyDaGeneral
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I've been gone for a couple of weeks, reason this post has gone to sleep. Well, I found there is very little seepage out of drain plug, like one weeping drop. Now, if I change the diff oil, and don't need to torque too hard, what will prevent it from future seepage?

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mdmellott
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I used a 1/2" square drive on mine but no amount of PB Blaster or any other lube was going to free up my plug. Ended up using a propane touch to get it hot enough to break free.

RoyDaGeneral
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I ended up using my hydraulic jack, on which I placed a piece of wood with drilled holes, which I placed between the jack and the long hand ratchet. Lifting the jack and supporting the ratchet handle got the plug loose, and really all I needed was to move it about 1/2" and the rest was steady unscrewing of the plug.

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rgk
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RoyDaGeneral wrote:
Fri Aug 16, 2019 1:40 pm
I've been gone for a couple of weeks, reason this post has gone to sleep. Well, I found there is very little seepage out of drain plug, like one weeping drop. Now, if I change the diff oil, and don't need to torque too hard, what will prevent it from future seepage?
They make special thread sealants for diffs.

RoyDaGeneral
Posts: 140
Joined: Wed Jun 05, 2019 10:55 am
Car: 2002 Infiniti QX4 2WD
Location: Berkeley, CA

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rgk wrote:
Sat Sep 14, 2019 10:06 am
RoyDaGeneral wrote:
Fri Aug 16, 2019 1:40 pm
I've been gone for a couple of weeks, reason this post has gone to sleep. Well, I found there is very little seepage out of drain plug, like one weeping drop. Now, if I change the diff oil, and don't need to torque too hard, what will prevent it from future seepage?
They make special thread sealants for diffs.
Thanks rgk! I recently picked up some thread sealant and got it done and it appears very well sealed now.

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rgk
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:dblthumb:

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mdmellott
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I just changed my differential oil again. Years ago I had to use a torch to get the drain plug to come loose using a 1/2" drive breaker bar. The 13mm square hole in the plug got very beat up in the process since the smaller 1/2" square drive twisted the square hole out of shape. I replaced the drain plug this time around with a new one from Nissan. I also used a proper plug removal tool for the job this time. Napa Auto Parts has a 3/8" drive socket to 13mm square bit drain plug tool. also used fore the fill plug, that can be special ordered for about $15 including shipping. I used a high temp RTV silicone sealant on the threads the last time I did this job. It took a heavy torque to remove it but not as heavy as the last time. The RTV sealant works very well of both plugs to ensure a leak free, no seepage, installation and assurance that it won't be stuck on like some gorilla torqued it down. Company23 has a 1/2" drive socket to 13mm square bit that is probably better than Napa's Carlyle brand but it costs about $23 including shipping.

BubbaFL
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Car: 03 QX4
Location: Central Florida

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I've used a 1/2" drive breaker but it's dicey, use the right tool or risk boogering up your drain plug - https://amzn.to/35Jx1Ye

wesinatl
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2007 Honda Pilot FWD
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I had to take mine to NTB and they put it on a lift and used a 4 ft breaker bar to loosen it for me.

wesinatl
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Joined: Tue May 30, 2017 11:32 am
Car: 2001 Nissan Pathfinder LE 3.5
2007 Honda Pilot FWD
2014 Toyota 4 runner SR5 4WD
2019 Toyota 4 runner SR5
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I had to take mine to NTB and they put it on a lift and used a 4 ft breaker bar to loosen it for me.


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