Rear coolant hoses

[tmorgan4]

Completely forgot to check back in! I just finished this and it works excellent. I haven't ran the engine yet, but I am confident it's not going to leak or cause any other issues.

I cut the tube off at the back of the head and tapped it with 3/8 NPT threads. The ID of the tube was a little larger than the ideal drill size for a 3/8NPT thread but it still cut nice threads and there was plenty there to "grab". I don't have part numbers on hand, but I used a 90* 3/8NPT to -8 AN fitting. I used a Loctite product (marketed as a replacement for teflon tape used on pipe threads) that was recommended for high heat and vibration environments. I tightened the fitting down pretty snug and shouldn't ever have to touch it again.

On the long coolant hose that runs through the valley of the engine, I cut off a couple inches and welded on a -8AN steel bung. I'd HIGHLY recommend TIG welding these to help prevent leaks if at all possible.

Here are a few pictures...much cleaner than the last setup. I replaced a few of the crankcase vent hoses with AN fittings at the same time.

Hope this helps at least a little????






Modified by tmorgan4 at 2:07 AM 12/3/2009

[solidglobe]

im not using heater core either . what i did was pull out the metal fitting off the head and installed a freeze plug to close that hole and no leaks. for the long tube i just cut it to the flange and welded it shut and no leaks. but for the long tube piece i am went with an electric water pump and no longer use the thermostat housing so that part is no longer there

[Steve Lloyd]

by doing that though, won't it affect cooling in the cylinder head since there is no flow???

I like the idea of just looping the hose to bypass the heater core.

[solidglobe]

no. it doesnt change flow by taking it off. i made sure when blocked it off the first time. it is same on both heads just on driver side it has heater core connections.