When I first got the truck I replaced the bottom rear control arm bushings with moogs. That GREATLY improved the sway and made it possible to drive over 45 mph.

I would still get bad sway with a heavy duty load in the rear at 55mph+ and smaller amounts of it at lower speeds.

Fast forward 14k miles and 4 years later and I got moog replacement upper rear arms installed the other day. Did torque with wheels on ground, full tank of gas, truck empty.

Still sways as before. Also have new shocks and sway bar links and ends back there. Thinking maybe coils next?

Someone save me from throwing too many parts at it. Thanks!

If it were me I'd probably get under the rear of the vehicle and firmly grasp the middle of each lower rear control arm and try to twist them. If you can twist them then the bushings you put in are already bad. The swaying movement you mention is related directly to how the rear axle movement is constrained by the upper and lower control arms and to a lesser degree, the sway bar. The coils primarily control up/down movement so based on your description they're less likely to be the cause of your problem. That said, I would also measure the distance to the ground (on a flat, even surface) from each end of the rear bumper to see if one coil has significantly weakened.

Would a significantly weakened coil cause this?

missionstreet wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 08, 2021 6:34 pm

Would a significantly weakened coil cause this?

Positively, if it's just one side.

Looking at Moog for replacement rear coils, I see ACDelco is 3 times as much. Why is that?

Should I try for oem?

There does appear to be leaning to the driver side from the rear... can't see it from the front

missionstreet wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 08, 2021 7:25 pm

Looking at Moog for replacement rear coils, I see ACDelco is 3 times as much. Why is that?

Should I try for oem?

Provided you're comparing identical application springs there shouldn't be that big of a difference. I would check out Rockauto.com and compare their selection and prices. If you end up replacing springs you're probably going to need the coil spring stop bumpers on the inside. If yours are original they're probably completely worn out.

Yes I saw that price discrepancy on rockauto.

missionstreet wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 08, 2021 7:25 pm

Looking at Moog for replacement rear coils, I see ACDelco is 3 times as much. Why is that?
Should I try for oem?

I bought the AC Delco Professional variable rate springs for my '02 because they provide extra spring force resistance with heavy loads in the cargo area yet they are still compliant enough to give a smooth ride compared to even pricier rough ride heavy duty springs. Mine were about twice the cost of the Moog constant rate springs but they are worth it given I never have the abrupt bottoming out issue anymore as I had with OEM constant rate springs. I just hauled 500 pounds in the cargo area, up and down the Sierras. It was a smooth ride the whole way and never bottomed out even when I took it on rough off-road conditions.

mdmellott wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 10, 2021 1:14 am

missionstreet wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 08, 2021 7:25 pm

Looking at Moog for replacement rear coils, I see ACDelco is 3 times as much. Why is that?
Should I try for oem?

I bought the AC Delco Professional variable rate springs for my '02 because they provide extra spring force resistance with heavy loads in the cargo area yet they are still compliant enough to give a smooth ride compared to even pricier rough ride heavy duty springs. Mine were about twice the cost of the Moog constant rate springs but they are worth it given I never have the abrupt bottoming out issue anymore as I had with OEM constant rate springs. I just hauled 500 pounds in the cargo area, up and down the Sierras. It was a smooth ride the whole way and never bottomed out even when I took it on rough off-road conditions.

Hmmm thank you for this input, I'm considering going that route since I frequently have a heavy load. I wonder if these springs will benefit my situation

missionstreet wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 10, 2021 4:41 am

Hmmm thank you for this input, I'm considering going that route since I frequently have a heavy load. I wonder if these springs will benefit my situation

It can only help, especially if your current springs are weakened due to age and one side is weaker than the other. I am currently awaiting delivery for a set of OEM control arm bushings and Panhard bar bushings to stiffen up my rear suspension back to normal. I don't have an unstable wobble issue but I can feel it is not as tight as it should be. The Panhard bar keeps the axle centered to the frame. It is just as critical as control arms in keeping the rear suspension stable.

mdmellott wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 10, 2021 11:20 am

missionstreet wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 10, 2021 4:41 am

Hmmm thank you for this input, I'm considering going that route since I frequently have a heavy load. I wonder if these springs will benefit my situation

It can only help, especially if your current springs are weakened due to age and one side is weaker than the other. I am currently awaiting delivery for a set of OEM control arm bushings and Panhard bar bushings to stiffen up my rear suspension back to normal. I don't have an unstable wobble issue but I can feel it is not as tight as it should be. The Panhard bar keeps the axle centered to the frame. It is just as critical as control arms in keeping the rear suspension stable.

If the panhard rod bushings are bad or somewhat deteriorated, can it not be detected with the rod still on frame? I can't see any play as it is.

missionstreet wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 10, 2021 11:50 am

If the panhard rod bushings are bad or somewhat deteriorated, can it not be detected with the rod still on frame? I can't see any play as it is.

The best way to check the panhard is to grab it with a channelok and try to rotate it. If the bushings are worn out or squishy, it will rotate quite a bit without much effort. Healthy bushings will take a good bit of torque to turn appreciably.

Worn out Panhard rod bushing symptoms are much like worn out rear control arm bushings, specifically in noticeable side to side lateral movement. They both work in concert with one another. The "wobble" symptom, while driving straight, is more indicative of control arm bushing issues, which is made worse by age softened Panhard rod bushings Driving into a turn puts the force into the Panhard rod which, if the bushings are worn, makes the frame sway off the centerline of the axle. I like the feel of my ride to be like I am driving on rails. Not that this is a sports car but it is a sport utility vehicle.

When i grab the panhard with channels and rotate i get a little play not a terrible amount

missionstreet wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 11, 2021 1:25 pm

When i grab the panhard with channels and rotate i get a little play not a terrible amount

Then it isn't the root of your issue. With the rear tilted as you describe, I think you're on the right track replacing the springs.

Ok, have never changed springs on a solid axle, any experience you could lend?

Will a spring compressor be necessary or can it be done otherwise?

It can be done with jacking and prying but I don't recommend it. Those springs are powerful and I've seen several co-workers get hurt over the years, one of them badly. A good quality compressor is the best idea.

Is an OEM brand rental any good?

Yah, most of the parts stores rent good ones. They don't want their customers getting hurt either.

missionstreet wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 11, 2021 5:30 pm

Ok, have never changed springs on a solid axle, any experience you could lend?
Will a spring compressor be necessary or can it be done otherwise?

The rear coil springs on your Pathfinder are removed without a spring compressor. The process is labor intensive but there is no other way. The steps are as follows.
1. Raise the rear of the Pathfinder and support it securely on jack stands under the frame near the ends of the lower control arms. Block the front wheels to prevent it from rolling and remove the rear wheels.
2. Support the rear axle with a floor jack placed under the differential. If you have two floor jacks, place one under each end of the axle tube. Two jacks will make the whole process easier.
3. Unbolt the rear brake hose junction block from the axle, then free the brake line from the securing clips along the rear axle housing. It isn't necessary to disconnect the brake line from the fittings.
4. Unbolt the Panhard rod from the axle.
5. Unbolt the stabilizer bar links from the bar.
6. Raise the floor jack(s) supporting the weight of the axle housing just enough to to begin compressing the shock absorbers so they are not fully extended. Disconnect the lower end of the shock absorbers from the axle.
7. Disconnect the breather tube at the top of the differential.
8. Slowly lower the the rear axle housing until the coil springs are fully extended, but no farther. Keep an eye on the brake hose and lines, making sure they do not get stretched or bent.
9. Remove the coil springs.
10. Check the upper and lower spring seats and the bump stops for cracks, hardening and general deterioration. It would be best to plan on replacing the seats and bump stops before you begin any of this process as it is likely they are worn out after 22 years.
11. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. When installing the springs, make sure the direction marks (usually a paint stripe on the coil spring) are facing the rear of the Pathfinder. If there is no direction mark, familiarize yourself with the orientation of the ends of the springs as they are seated before removing the old springs. This orientation is critical for proper installation.

mdmellott wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 12, 2021 12:22 am

7. Disconnect the breather tube at the top of the differential.
8. Slowly lower the the rear axle housing until the coil springs are fully extended, but no farther. Keep an eye on the brake hose and lines, making sure they do not get stretched or bent.

7a. Put a jaw or clamp type compressor on each side and there won't be any worries about dropping the axle too far and hurting yourself or the brake lines.