Rear Camber Kit

[S3t0_S13]

The local tire shop fixed my front camber wit a the centric bolt kit, making it in the right degree to keep my tires good for a while

now the tires in the back at -1.8 and -2.0 need to be reduced. my tires are completely bald on the inside, and he says the warehouse he gets his parts from, dosent have the centric bolt kit, but rather the complete arm kit at $270 each arm, and i dont have $500+ to fix my rear camber, and ive searched many websites for the kit, only the front is available, what should i do?

[180fan]

270/arm is overpriced. you can get cusco for the amount that guy is asking you to cough up.

It won't be an bolt that fixes the back camber, you'll need an arm.

couple makers of those arms you'll need:kazama, cusco, jic, spl

you'll also want the toe arms. When you get into the lower camber, your toe also gets jacked. But see where you're at first with the arms first.

[S3t0_S13]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem

Will that work to reduce it 1 degree? i dont want 2 spend 500 on adjustment, i just want 2 have decent tires, and have them last me a while, not 3K, what have other people done when they have lowered their cars??

[180fan]

basically those are the arms. but i think you should look for better quality arms, those look pretty janky.

[S3t0_S13]

u dont think those are good quality? wat company do u reccomend?

[Vanguy]

I bought the cheap ones off of ebay and I broke one in a few months. The spherical bearing dried out and seized and the movement of the suspension snapped it. I would get any brand that has a rubber boot to keep the bearing in grease (Cusco). Or grease the bootless bearing constantly.

On the cheap though, you could try to slot the hole in the upper arm. 240sx.org has a write up.Write Up

[ddgsxr504]

If your rear tires are excessively worn on the inside that is caused by seriously out of wack toe. It is ok to have a little camber on the rears. I am personally running 1.7/1.8 on the rears but my tires last about 2 years with scheduled rotation. I understand the you want to get the camber fixed and so do I but it sounds like your toe needs attention first.

[S3t0_S13]

nah my toe is alright, the spec sheet shows it in the green zone, just the camber is really tearing up my tires, ive had these tires on for like 1 year, and they were sittin in a garage for another 2 years, im thinkin they lost intergrity and wore out much quicker,

im thinkin ill jus get a new set and flip em every couple thou miles, how often should u flip em in and out/?

[ddgsxr504]

im thinkin ill jus get a new set and flip em every couple thou miles, how often should u flip em in and out/?

According to the service manual it says every oil change but then again it also tells you that every oil change should be 7500 miles so uhh yeah. I would say rotate the tires every oil change at 3000 miles, Thats what I do.

[ser2102]

to rotate them, it depends on if you have directional tires or not, and if you have different widths of rims. if they are dirrectional, they need to take the tire of the rim and switch them side to side to help with your camber problem. if they arent dirrectional tire, you can put them just put them on the other side without any problem. what size tires do you have and what size rims? here are some adjustable camber arms, good brand too, im getting their tension rods next week cause my rubber bushings are DEAD http://phase2motorsports.store....html

[S3t0_S13]

i have falken ziex 512 215/45 17'

i think im gonna have 2 take the tire off the rim and flip it around, but i dont know how often

[ser2102]

i always hear 5,000 miles, but that seems liek alot of cash once you start doing that often. usually a balance and mounting costs 40 bucks for all 4 tires. but its worth it to make your tires last longer.

[180fan]

dunno if it'll be worth the cost of rotation on the ziex's. they're already pretty cheap to begin with. usually it'll be the toe that'll chew up the tires more than just the camber.

[S3t0_S13]

crap they are directionals, i guess im jus gonna drive with -1.7 camber for a while till i can cough up 300 for the rear arms

[amolao]

Im in the process of getting my new SPL rucas on my S13. I dont care what anybody says, if you get coilovers and drop the car more than 2 inches YOU will need rucas. I heard of people having a hard time with the eccentric bolt attchment part....??? what should be the default setting for this bolt with the new rucas in place??? how about the default setting of the rucas.....? sorry didnt mean to hijack the thread...

[S3t0_S13]

nah its koo, we all need help, yea the bolts are only 4 the front,ive gotten mine installed, thye dont make bolts 4 the rear, it needs 2 be adjusted by a arm, but if im not mistaken, dont coilovers come with adjustments 2 correct camber?

wats rucas? lol i sound like a dumass

[chitownguy]

RUCAS=Rear Upper Control Arms

Well some coilovers come with pillowball upper mounts but some only for the front.

[574-240sx]

I have had SPL RUCA and they were nice. I'm using them again on my current project but I heard Battle Version links are suupose to be good too.

[S3t0_S13]

i see, yea i heard the battle versions are good 2, but i dont have the money now 4 a set, is this what every person with shock/spring upgrade has had 2 do 2 reduce camber though??

[180fan]

to reduce camber? Nope. With the Tanabe GF210's on Koni Yellows, my camber fell within oem spec. Once I got new wheels, I maxed out my oem camber adjustment to cram my Volks in there. I don't get terrible tire wear even at that point. Have you checked the bushings along the knukcle and links? If they're worn soft, they can give and cause your wheel to wobble and wear faster.

[S3t0_S13]

ur saying the battle version arms wont reduce camber??

no dude my mechanic showed me specs, he tried reducing as much camber wit oem adjustments, but that didnt work, and they dont make centric bolts for the rear.

my spec sheet that they made to check my adjustment says camber is off in the back by -1.7 and -1.9, they both used to be at -2.3, the car was lowered 2.2 inches, so the tires are really crouched. toe and caster is alrite, its all cuz of the spring and shock layout i have

[ser2102]

yes RUCAS will help with the camber issue. but dont forget, toe plays a big part in it too, because youre forcing the tire to go in another dirrection than just straight, its gonna put more stress on the tire. also, tire pressure is a key thing. too little pressure and you will have bald tires quickly, too much pressure, and you will only wear the inside of the tire with the bad camber. my suggestion is, get the toe control arms first, and make sure you are running a good tire pressure. to figure that out, draw a line across the tire with a piece of chaulk, then see how it rubs off after you take a little trip around the block. if it rubs off almost evenly, then youre tire pressure is good. only on the inside means its too hight, and if it rubs off only in the center, its too low.

[S3t0_S13]

the mechanic said he could try forcing it 2 the correct degree, but making the arm unsafe, id like totally breaking off the arm and suspension during a hard turn

so yea i think im gonna pass on that, and jus get rucas for camber reduction, and he checked, camber is way off, but toe and caster is withen oem specs, i think my springs having dropped my car 2.2 inches has something 2 do with this