Just joined this forum after reading on here for awhile. I have read most of the threads on this 'rear sway' problem, but still have a few questions. I have a '04 Pathfinder LE with 140K. I replaced the rear shocks and have decided I need to replace the bushings. I don't go off road much, just some semi rough dirt trails. I've decided to buy the bushing instead of the 'Dorman' arms.
1) Has anyone used both the split bushings and the 1 piece bushings (from 4x4 parts) ? Or, any advice on how much better, if at all, the 1 piece are. I assume the split will be easier to install, but I do have a friend with a press. Just trying to make the job easier if possible.
2) Do you install the bushings without the 'outer' metal sleeve? I called 4x4 parts and someone there told me to use the outer sleeve. From reading and watching some videos, it seems they are destroyed, when removing the old bushings, and not used again.
3) How important is it to buy the new bolts and not use the old bolts? I have already replaced the rear shocks and they were fairly easy to get off. The bolts on the trailing arms look similar. They don't look rusted at all.
I have asked these questions in another forum, but trying to get as much advice as I can. Thanks for any help
Rear bushings installation help needed
Re: Rear bushings installation help needed
First of all, youre making a great choice going with the polyurethane bushings.
1. I see no reason not to get the split design, I have installed them on 2 vehicles, and there really is no need to complicate the job involving a press with the other style, the split design are plenty firm and eliminate the sway completely.
2.You take the metal sleeve out. The easiest way Ive found (without a press) is to simply put the link on a piece of wood or vice held firmly, take a 1-4"-3/8" drill bit and drill around the inner metal sleeve, drilling the holes as close as you can manage to each other, effectively drilling a "swiss cheese" looking circle, at that point you can push the middle out with your finger if your holes are closely drilled, might take a wack or two with a hammer if you left thick portions of rubber.
Then to get the outer metal sleeve out I put a metal blade in my jigsaw, place the blade of the jigaw inside the hole cutting outwards, but flat across the entire inner sleeve, cutting a blade thin slit across. If your careful and cut slow and straight, you can stop just before the blade cuts completely through the sleeve, its not a big deal if you cut slightly into the outer material. Once you get that cut through, you can use a flat head or a chisel to bang the inner sleeve out easily, a can of wd-40 helps to keep your blade cool while cutting, and probably aids in the sleeve popping out easier. The new poly bushings just pop in with a smack from your hand.
3. I to also got lucky and my underbody bolts are still easily removed. I have re-used the bolts on both installations I have done, the fsm does say to replace them, but it adds considerable cost to the job, there big bolts and mine were in good shape so I coated in anti-seize and re-used.
1. I see no reason not to get the split design, I have installed them on 2 vehicles, and there really is no need to complicate the job involving a press with the other style, the split design are plenty firm and eliminate the sway completely.
2.You take the metal sleeve out. The easiest way Ive found (without a press) is to simply put the link on a piece of wood or vice held firmly, take a 1-4"-3/8" drill bit and drill around the inner metal sleeve, drilling the holes as close as you can manage to each other, effectively drilling a "swiss cheese" looking circle, at that point you can push the middle out with your finger if your holes are closely drilled, might take a wack or two with a hammer if you left thick portions of rubber.
Then to get the outer metal sleeve out I put a metal blade in my jigsaw, place the blade of the jigaw inside the hole cutting outwards, but flat across the entire inner sleeve, cutting a blade thin slit across. If your careful and cut slow and straight, you can stop just before the blade cuts completely through the sleeve, its not a big deal if you cut slightly into the outer material. Once you get that cut through, you can use a flat head or a chisel to bang the inner sleeve out easily, a can of wd-40 helps to keep your blade cool while cutting, and probably aids in the sleeve popping out easier. The new poly bushings just pop in with a smack from your hand.
3. I to also got lucky and my underbody bolts are still easily removed. I have re-used the bolts on both installations I have done, the fsm does say to replace them, but it adds considerable cost to the job, there big bolts and mine were in good shape so I coated in anti-seize and re-used.
Re: Rear bushings installation help needed
Canuck, thanks for the reply. The split bushings seem to make the job somewhat easier. Did you replace the pan hard rod bushings? Just wondering if they have any effect on the sway.
Re: Rear bushings installation help needed
I did not replace that one, I dont feel its necessary, my sway was completely eliminated and the truck feels planted.
Id make the call based on the visual condition of your stock bushing
Id make the call based on the visual condition of your stock bushing