jmess wrote:My 2 cents.
Turning or replacing the rotors insures you get 100% optimum braking performance with the new pads along with reducing the potential for squealing.
A brake job is a really good time to consider replacing the brake fluid.
Before I hit the 10k mark, I had had to take my car for service twice already for wheel vibration during braking at highway speeds (first one around just 300miles). Each time they told me that it is warped rotors and they "shaved" them. I thought the rotors that came with my car were defective, but they claimed that this is normal.SteveTheTech wrote:jmess wrote:My 2 cents.
Turning or replacing the rotors insures you get 100% optimum braking performance with the new pads along with reducing the potential for squealing.
A brake job is a really good time to consider replacing the brake fluid.
Sage advise.
Brake fluid is a make or "brake" ( ) component of the hydraulic braking system, and should be replaced at when the first set is replaced and at or near 60. Another thing I strongly recommend is keeping at least part of the factory shims. I know Akebono (OE manufacturer who also makes very high quality direct replacement) has a molded shim that works well as the inner shim but the silver one should have some brake lube applied to both sides, to really ensure they are quite. This really isn't written any where just my personal technique and it has not produced any come backs since I started greasing both sides. Also remove and replace the grease on the slide pins too, just in case some contaminates get on there it is better to be safe than sorry.
Also something I learned a while back. Always rotate the rotor at least 360 degrees before torquing the wheel down. Oh and always torque the wheels with new rotors, that is one of the most common causes of brake pulsation and the EX is (internet) infamous for pulsation problems.
Send them to me... and I'll post them for you.P1800 wrote:So, whoever cares to see what I did to my rear brake job please drop me a line so maybe I can e-mail the procedure to you. Better yet, if some can show me on how to attach a file than I can just do that!
What is your experience with cars like Audi, Volvo, or even Range rover? Certain models tear through brakes in <20k. Recently we had a used RR sport with Brembos and factory 20" wheels, it was a pretty truck but at 11k miles it needed 4 tires and round house pads and rotors. The total for brakes, parts alone was almost $2000.NJ_EX35 wrote:I had the vibration issue under high speed breaking and they replaced the front rotors under warranty. I had to argue with them that this is not normal and I would not pay for front rotor replacement... finally they caved in, but they got me for rear break job.
Steve, do you mean just spin the Rotor one full rotation, first ?SteveTheTech wrote:Also something I learned a while back. Always rotate the rotor at least 360 degrees before torquing the wheel down.
So?Tasman wrote:Old thread.
I think it all comes down to driving habits. I am a bit of an aggressive driver, but when I am coming to a stop, I calculate my speed and don`t brake the last minute....My problem is I am more on gas and smooth on brakes.....seldomseen wrote:The reality of the matter is Infiniti brakes are garbage! If you do an online search you will see that MANY people experience premature wear and frequent rotor warping just from normal driving and without high speed braking.
You will probably get better quality brakes if you get them from Midas, Meineke or from a small auto garage to be quite frank. Infiniti will just tell you that all the brake problems you have is normal or blame you for braking at high speeds, etc., which is complete BS. I had brakes put on my Eclipse from Meineke and put well over 40k miles on them without ANY issues to date.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that doing this gets the rotor aligned properly and parallel to the hub. On my EX, I don't recall seeing alignment screws (typically installed during the car's assembly) holding the rotor to the hub. I guess with some cars or brake rotors that don't have these screws, it's possible to have the rotors misaligned when installing them?EXceptional wrote:Steve, do you mean just spin the Rotor one full rotation, first ?SteveTheTech wrote:Also something I learned a while back. Always rotate the rotor at least 360 degrees before torquing the wheel down.
What does this do ?