rear brakes lock first
rear brakes lock first
after installing ss lines(4x), hawk hps pads(4x), slotted/xdrilled rotors(front), and reusing the rotors in the rear my rears would lock up first on my s13 nonabs. I dont want this. sometimes it would be the passanger side first or drivers sides, but it would never be the fronts.I havent found much in on the "dual proportioning valve" in the master cylinder and am hoping i can adjust this to solve problem. can any1 give me some input that will help me out and/or tell me about the dual proportioning valve. i dont want to throw money at the problem unnecassarilythanx
Re: rear brakes lock first (shooty)
I'm not positive, but doesn't the rear lock up first normally on 240's? I know basically every time my car locked up it was from the rear.
Anyway, 1 way I think would change this situation is to get one of the 300zx master cylinders; don't remember which one, but one of them has a lower "splitting point" or whatnot and starts favoring the front brake more. This will probably make braking less fun since you don't have the 300zx brakes though. I only found this out because I was doing research for my 300zx brake upgrade.
Another possibility may be to get oem pads for the rears, and keep your hawks for the front? Maybe if the pads didn't grab as much in the back, they'll less likely lock up? Also maybe take out the slotted/drilled rotors in the back (just to test w/ oem rotors) to see how the difference is, or the stainless lines. Basically just take the "bite" away from the back.
Or you can get a fwd car, - i'm just playing, but I think that "should" fix the rear locking up. hahaha.
Anyway, 1 way I think would change this situation is to get one of the 300zx master cylinders; don't remember which one, but one of them has a lower "splitting point" or whatnot and starts favoring the front brake more. This will probably make braking less fun since you don't have the 300zx brakes though. I only found this out because I was doing research for my 300zx brake upgrade.
Another possibility may be to get oem pads for the rears, and keep your hawks for the front? Maybe if the pads didn't grab as much in the back, they'll less likely lock up? Also maybe take out the slotted/drilled rotors in the back (just to test w/ oem rotors) to see how the difference is, or the stainless lines. Basically just take the "bite" away from the back.
Or you can get a fwd car, - i'm just playing, but I think that "should" fix the rear locking up. hahaha.
the front should never lock up first on any car. it is dangerous and could cause the car to spin. just FYI.
there's no way to adjust the prop valve in the master cylinder. there is a chance that it's bad though. all the upgrades you mentioned wouldn't favor the back any more than stock so there has to be a problem somewhere. assuming all your calipers are in good condition, the only thing i can think of would be the master cylinder.
if that doesn't fix it, you could use the suggestions broke gave. they would only cure the symptoms and not the actual problem, but sometimes that's all you need.
my only other thought is that the new front rotors are a little more slippery than your broken in rear rotors so they don't grip as much. give it a hundred miles or so and see how it does.
there's no way to adjust the prop valve in the master cylinder. there is a chance that it's bad though. all the upgrades you mentioned wouldn't favor the back any more than stock so there has to be a problem somewhere. assuming all your calipers are in good condition, the only thing i can think of would be the master cylinder.
if that doesn't fix it, you could use the suggestions broke gave. they would only cure the symptoms and not the actual problem, but sometimes that's all you need.
my only other thought is that the new front rotors are a little more slippery than your broken in rear rotors so they don't grip as much. give it a hundred miles or so and see how it does.