Hi
Just in the process of replacing the brake shoes on the rear on my N320 and replacing Axle seals as well.
Now I want to remove the whole brake assembly but the hand brake cable is stock on the locking plate, now how do I remove the cable from the locking plate?
or how do I remove the cable from the drums?
I've attached some photos...
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v390/ ... cable1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v390/ ... cable2.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v390/ ... cable3.jpg[/img]
and have a look how soaking wet of oil is my brake
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v390/ ... Brake1.jpg[/img]
Rear Brakes and Rear Axles
If you take the front brake shoe off, you should find a clip holding the cable liner to the backing plate. You'll have to release the cable from the toggle lever(behind the rear shoe) to be able to pull it through the backing plate.
You won't need to do this unless you need to remove the cable from the vehicle:
On the frontside of the bracket in your second pic, is another clip you'll have to slide off. Then the cable liner pulls back slightly and the cable slips through the slot.
You won't need to do this unless you need to remove the cable from the vehicle:
On the frontside of the bracket in your second pic, is another clip you'll have to slide off. Then the cable liner pulls back slightly and the cable slips through the slot.
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odpl_Razor
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm
When you release the brake shoe or the other end of the cable, it will give you enough play to work with. The cable hooks to the toggle arm kinda like a bicycle brake cable hooks to the handle...there's a lug on the end and it fits in a slot. I'm pretty sure there's a spring over the cable that pushes the arm toward the lug so that it can't bounce out when it's loose. The make special pliers for compressing that spring, but I usually have better luck with needle nose visegrips. You'll need to compress the spring to get the cable out of the arm.
If you're trying to get the backing plate and axle off the diff so that you can change the seal, you can always just disconnect the head end of the cable and take it with the backing plate. You can also remove the cottor pin at the top of the toggle arm to release it from the brake shoe. That would leave the cable and arm attached to the backing plate.
If you're trying to get the backing plate and axle off the diff so that you can change the seal, you can always just disconnect the head end of the cable and take it with the backing plate. You can also remove the cottor pin at the top of the toggle arm to release it from the brake shoe. That would leave the cable and arm attached to the backing plate.
If there isn't a clip....I'm trying to go off memory here.......holding the cable to the backing plate, then it's a spring steel piece that wraps around the cable housing. There should be 3 prongs that pop up after it's been pushed into the plate. You'll have to get all 3 of these pushed back down for the cable to slide out. Usually, you can get one started, then another, then another. I've never been able to do it on the first try.
As for the scans..... these are from a 521 manual that I paid dearly for a few weeks back. It's been copied and scanned to a .pdf file. I also have a 1973 L series engine manual that's been copied and is awaiting scanning. If all goes well, I will have the 521 factory parts manual soon and it will get the same treatment. I know most of this forum is 320's, but most of the chassis stuff is still good. I've been waiting a couple of years now for someone with a factory manual to offer it up for scanning, but no one has stepped forward. This is costing me a chunk of change, but the end result will be a CD that has all 3 books on it. It may not be the most professional end result, but I want to keep the cost down to about $25/cd. At this point, I'm hoping to include shipping in that price. I'm hoping that by keeping the cost down, more guys will actually buy their own copy and not start making dupes for everyone else. I'm not looking to make a profit, just recoupe my investment. Since I have to have the bindings sliced off each one, I pretty much kill the resell value, so if no one buys these, I'll be eating it. I'll still have the manuals, but I would have waited until I could get them A LOT cheaper!!!
I have no intention of ebaying this CD...it will only be offered to the forums that I'm on. It may be offered on the www.the620.com site.
As for the scans..... these are from a 521 manual that I paid dearly for a few weeks back. It's been copied and scanned to a .pdf file. I also have a 1973 L series engine manual that's been copied and is awaiting scanning. If all goes well, I will have the 521 factory parts manual soon and it will get the same treatment. I know most of this forum is 320's, but most of the chassis stuff is still good. I've been waiting a couple of years now for someone with a factory manual to offer it up for scanning, but no one has stepped forward. This is costing me a chunk of change, but the end result will be a CD that has all 3 books on it. It may not be the most professional end result, but I want to keep the cost down to about $25/cd. At this point, I'm hoping to include shipping in that price. I'm hoping that by keeping the cost down, more guys will actually buy their own copy and not start making dupes for everyone else. I'm not looking to make a profit, just recoupe my investment. Since I have to have the bindings sliced off each one, I pretty much kill the resell value, so if no one buys these, I'll be eating it. I'll still have the manuals, but I would have waited until I could get them A LOT cheaper!!!
I have no intention of ebaying this CD...it will only be offered to the forums that I'm on. It may be offered on the www.the620.com site.
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odpl_Razor
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm
Well, someone had deeper pockets than mine!! Let's just hope they are the type of datsun owner that will make the info available to the rest of us.
The parts manual went for just over $200. Oh well.....I think I can come up with another source for it anyway. Just a slight delay. The only reason it went that high is because I was willing to pay that much for the good of the datsun community....not sure about the other guy's motivation. If it went back of for bid tomorrow, I wouldn't bother....it would probably only fetch about $75. Boy did that seller get lucky!!!!
The parts manual went for just over $200. Oh well.....I think I can come up with another source for it anyway. Just a slight delay. The only reason it went that high is because I was willing to pay that much for the good of the datsun community....not sure about the other guy's motivation. If it went back of for bid tomorrow, I wouldn't bother....it would probably only fetch about $75. Boy did that seller get lucky!!!!
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odpl_Razor
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm
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odpl_Razor
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm
It took me half a day to clean the rear drums today I nearly gave up cleaning them.
I noticed that one of the drums is missing the retaining spring and spring lock plate for the adjuster.
and both drums are missing the spring inside the wheel cylinder.
Now another problem to look for these parts which in australia's parts stores/book 320s doesnt exist!!!
anyone knows If I can use parts from a different car? are these parts generic?
Can I just take them to a brake specialist to match?
I noticed that one of the drums is missing the retaining spring and spring lock plate for the adjuster.
and both drums are missing the spring inside the wheel cylinder.
Now another problem to look for these parts which in australia's parts stores/book 320s doesnt exist!!!
anyone knows If I can use parts from a different car? are these parts generic?
Can I just take them to a brake specialist to match?
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odpl_Razor
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm
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odpl_Razor
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm
Hi again
I put everything back together again but it wasnt successful.
How do you adjust the rear brake adjuster? there's no adjustment at the back so everytime you have to adjust it you have to take the drums off.
Stephen is it possible to send me the page for adjusting rear brakes/handbrake pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease?
Do you just manually turn the adjusters till you get the right setting?
I tried twice today and failed.
Whats the size of the bleeder nut? need to buy a flare nut so I can bleed my brakes.
Cheers
I put everything back together again but it wasnt successful.
How do you adjust the rear brake adjuster? there's no adjustment at the back so everytime you have to adjust it you have to take the drums off.
Stephen is it possible to send me the page for adjusting rear brakes/handbrake pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease?
Do you just manually turn the adjusters till you get the right setting?
I tried twice today and failed.
Whats the size of the bleeder nut? need to buy a flare nut so I can bleed my brakes.
Cheers
Did you get the E brake cable out?
I pulled the cable on a '69 yesterday and there is no clip holding it to the backing plate. The spring that slips over the cable is what keeps in from coming out. You take the brake shoe off the backing plate, then pull the cable in the opposite direction of the spring, until the cable will come out of the slot on the arm. The spring slides off. I used vise grips to grab the cable on the backside of the backing plate and wiggled it until it came out.
I pulled the cable on a '69 yesterday and there is no clip holding it to the backing plate. The spring that slips over the cable is what keeps in from coming out. You take the brake shoe off the backing plate, then pull the cable in the opposite direction of the spring, until the cable will come out of the slot on the arm. The spring slides off. I used vise grips to grab the cable on the backside of the backing plate and wiggled it until it came out.
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odpl_Razor
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm
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odpl_Razor
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm
Hi again
I'm in the process of adjusting my parking brake and it doesnt seem to work
I took off the rear drums and manually pulling each cable for each drum to see if the toggle lever is moving freely and noticed that the extension link connecting to the toggle lever doesnt even push the brake shoe
I installed it like on the diagram and double checked if anything misplaced but its all installed properly
how do I solve this issue?
cheers
I'm in the process of adjusting my parking brake and it doesnt seem to work
I took off the rear drums and manually pulling each cable for each drum to see if the toggle lever is moving freely and noticed that the extension link connecting to the toggle lever doesnt even push the brake shoe
I installed it like on the diagram and double checked if anything misplaced but its all installed properly
how do I solve this issue?
cheers
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odpl_Razor
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm
Sorry for not replying sooner but I'm not the 320 expert but will try to help ya...
It sounds like either the shoes are not adjusted far enough out or the adjuster cable is too loose...\
Have you crawled underneath and checked to see it the adjuster was tight enough? How much slack on the cable at that point?
Does your handbrake come all the way to the outer stopping point or does it stop halfway up?
It sounds like either the shoes are not adjusted far enough out or the adjuster cable is too loose...\
Have you crawled underneath and checked to see it the adjuster was tight enough? How much slack on the cable at that point?
Does your handbrake come all the way to the outer stopping point or does it stop halfway up?
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odpl_Razor
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm
I adjusted the brake adjuster in the drums to the point that when you try rolling the drums by hand it feels like its dragging like its loose 1/3 and feels like the shoes are touching the drums.
How do I know the right point where I should adjust the adjusters? I've read that you adjust it till it touches the drums then back off 12 clicks
I tried that and it was too loose.
How tight the drums should feel if I try to push/roll it by hand with handbrake off?
The cable has no slack on it when the handbrake is off.
There's probably around 5mm gap from the tip of the extension link to the shoe that gets pushed to the drums (leading shoe) when the handbrake is not pulled. I'm thinking its not going far enough to push the shoe to the drums.
Even disconnecting the cable and pulling it manually with a lot of effort to get the toggle lever and extension link to push the shoe.
How do I know the right point where I should adjust the adjusters? I've read that you adjust it till it touches the drums then back off 12 clicks
I tried that and it was too loose.
How tight the drums should feel if I try to push/roll it by hand with handbrake off?
The cable has no slack on it when the handbrake is off.
There's probably around 5mm gap from the tip of the extension link to the shoe that gets pushed to the drums (leading shoe) when the handbrake is not pulled. I'm thinking its not going far enough to push the shoe to the drums.
Even disconnecting the cable and pulling it manually with a lot of effort to get the toggle lever and extension link to push the shoe.
I have always adjusted my brakes to where they are just barely dragging (you can hear them) take it out for a drive and then spin the wheel again until they just start dragging again and go from there...you can freespin the wheel about 2 1/2 revolutions with it set this way and the dragging goes away after a day or so of driving giving me really tight feeling pedal...
the reason for driving it after the first adjust is to center the shoes as they aren't centered, no matter how hard you try, until you use them the first time...
I also adjust the e-brake until it will stop the truck before halfway up ...that way I still have an e-brake after the shoes wear down...about every 2-3 years I do a brake job whether it needs it or not...
Hope it helps ya...
the reason for driving it after the first adjust is to center the shoes as they aren't centered, no matter how hard you try, until you use them the first time...
I also adjust the e-brake until it will stop the truck before halfway up ...that way I still have an e-brake after the shoes wear down...about every 2-3 years I do a brake job whether it needs it or not...
Hope it helps ya...
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odpl_Razor
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 5:00 pm
When I adjusted it I feel like the shoes are dragging already as it was kinda hard to turn when handbrake was off.
It feels like I can turn 1/3 then it kinda gets heavy to turn the drums so thought thats far enough. if I back it off without the drag it wont even lock up when the handbrake is on.
I'll give it a try again, but my suspicion is at the toggle lever and extension link having a gap in between the shoe.
For me you have to pull the cable on each side (while disconnected) very very hard to make the extension link or the strut to touch and push the shoe.
Someone told me maybe the notch on the shoe is too far away but I took the shoes from the brake place and they actually measured and everything to match the new shoes.
I'll take a photo with drums off when handbrake is off and when its pulled to show the gap I'm talking about if its normal
It feels like I can turn 1/3 then it kinda gets heavy to turn the drums so thought thats far enough. if I back it off without the drag it wont even lock up when the handbrake is on.
I'll give it a try again, but my suspicion is at the toggle lever and extension link having a gap in between the shoe.
For me you have to pull the cable on each side (while disconnected) very very hard to make the extension link or the strut to touch and push the shoe.
Someone told me maybe the notch on the shoe is too far away but I took the shoes from the brake place and they actually measured and everything to match the new shoes.
I'll take a photo with drums off when handbrake is off and when its pulled to show the gap I'm talking about if its normal
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