Rear brake woes...

[skydragoness]

I drove 3 miles to my bf's house this past friday night and noticed a burning-brake sort of smell coming into the cabin. I found it odd, since the parking brake was not engaged at all. As soon as i got to the house, i got out and sniffed each wheel of my car to find that the rear wheel on the passenger side was hot to the touch and reeked of brake pad burnination

Today I took apart the caliper, and removed the pins and boots, cleaned them, and re-greased them with caliper grease as per recommendation of my buddy Paul. My bf noticed that the caliper's piston was extended a little far still, we cleaned it up as well, and had a hard time putting it back on to the assembly. After hooking everything back up, the rotor moved more freely, but there's still a slight resistance. I took the car out for a 3 mile drive, and this time the wheel was only slightly warm. My question is: what the freakin crap? I have to rebuild already rebuilt calipers? Should I try popping the piston out and cleaning it up as well? And lastly, I have two of the floating stock calipers left from my Z brake upgrade, are they the same size as the rear? I figure it would be just easier that way--if they're compatible.

EDIT: Nevermind, i went and looked at my stock front calipers, much bigger (naturally). Well, any advice for getting this caliper un-stuck?

[Exar-Kun]

1. try turning the rear piston back into the caliper(its got 2 holes on the face of the piston, turn those clockwise to turn it bakc into the piston.) then align those holes with the little nubs on the back of the pad..if they aren't alligned, it canc ause a pad to stick or wear badly, since its an "acctuated" rear caliper. I have seen thise twice on 240sx, since most people have NO idea what those little nubs are for, and most recently on a honda accord(also rear actuated calipers) and it did the same thing to his rear brakes.

2. if thats done correctly, check the inner and outer pad to make sure its worn even, and check the bleeder screw. Also, check your parking brake cable, pump it a few times..sometimes this can cause the pads to rub a bit tight on the rear brakes. Check where it nters the caliper. and allong its length under the car -chet

[skydragoness]

my buddy told me that after a couple of days the piston should go back to normal. I did drive my car from my house to a mobil station about 2 miles away and the wheel felt the same temp as the other wheels (to the touch). I may take the caliper apart again anyway when I go to take the sportlines off the rear by the end of this week. Now there's a click/shift coming from my driver's side Z brake and i have to have that checked out too. Preferably by the dude who did it. I had another Z guy tell me perhaps one of the clips was put in upside down. Other than that, the only thing i can think it *may* be is an inner tie rod. Since i already replaced my t/c rods, and outer tie rods.

[Exar-Kun]

sometimes I wished I had a dollar for everytime a "buddy" didnt give good advice, or was completely wrong,....I'd be a rich man....sorry, it's been a day of handling other guys screw ups at my work :/

I need to come up to NJ and fix your stuff for you with jeff. Seriously, take the rea pads off agian and check those nubs to make sure they're aligned with the slots in the piston..otherwise you'll just perpetuate the problem...

when does the click/shift occur? does it occur predictably?-chet:thinker