rear brake pad install

[kepani]

here's a quick run through for replacement of the rear brake pads for my 1996 240sx se. i noticed that the left rear brake constantly squealed. i finally figured that it would be the "low pad" metal indicator thingy (is there a better name for this?).

there's a big list of things that need to be fixed. however, i was fortunate enough to get this car from a friend who had to leave the country so i'm not complaining.

i headed over to the local nissan dealer to get a full set of pads (front and rear). turned out they didn't have the fronts in stock. i got the rears anyway since that was the source of the squealing. the set of rears cost me about $55.

tools: breaker bar torque wrench 14mm wrench hammer jack jackstands needlenose pliers brake wash

*unfortunately, my camera broke and would have definitely taken some pictures both for a record and for posting pics in a thread like this*

1) loosen lugs. previous mechanic who worked on the car did a full impact wrenching to the lugs. remember guys, always use a torque wrench! it should pretty loose when you break them.

2) jack up car.

3) remove lugs and wheel.

4) take your 14mm wrench and hammer. loosen the two 14mm bolts from the rear of the caliper. use the hammer to do the initial *break*.

5) push the caliper back and lift the assembly off of the disc. be careful not to rip the brake lines. they're pretty strong but just be careful.

6) pull out the old pads. be sure to either reuse the shims from the existing pads or use new ones. keep track of which shim came from which pad. large shim on outer, small shim on inner. also check how they're mated to the pads. sure enough, the metal squeal was due to worn pads! the indicator was flush to the pad surface.

7) install new pads. take a look at the new pads. the set i got had only one pad with the metal indicator. the one with the indicator goes on the right disc on the inside; metal indicator should be high, not low.

8) grab your trusty piston compressor to push the piston back in. or if you're like me without one (don't know i survived w/o one), grab a needlenose and turn the piston clockwise using the four indents. do it slowly as not to rip the piston boot.

9) lay the caliper back on the disc making sure it clears the new pads. you might have to go back and re-press or screw the piston further to get it in cleanly.

10) take the two 12mm bolts and tighten them back on.

11) remount your wheel and torque the 5 lugs (or 4 for the less fortunate ). per the manual, torque them between 72-87 ft-lbs. for the 5 lug pattern, torque them in a *star* pattern. for the 4 luggers, simply in a circle.

12) presto! no more squealing!

*just as a precautionary measure, please consult a certified technician if you are not sure how to do this yourself. i assume no responsibility for any incident that might have resulted from the information here.* :sigh:

hope the how-to was helpful! i might have missed some details but overall, you get the picture.

kepani

[sanioll]

just fkng change it dude. no need for all this fancy explanation.

only thing is important that, to make sure you align that pin on the back of brake pad and that thing(whats its name?) that comes outta brake calipers to push on the pads. if its not alighned, pads not gonna sit properly, so yougonna geta uneven wear and only abt 50% braking.

[MAXIMUS Nismo]

Nive write up. Thank you. Not all of us non-mechanical types can do this in our sleep. Take a computer apart and put it back together in 35 minutes flat I can do, but I need help with cars.

Once again, thanks.

[kepani]

just fkng change it dude. no need for all this fancy explanation.

if it's not useful to you, move on. some people might find the step-by-step useful. maybe you've done it before and can do it in a snap. i'm personally a beginner mechanic so i'm just sharing with those who might be in the same boat.

kepani

[amolao]

Any useful write up is a good write up, specially for things so important such as brakes, one quik tip, when doing the front pads there is no way to turn the brake piston (at least is that way on S13's) the notches are missing, but like you mentioned used the compressor or a simple C clamp will do....

[kepani]

...one quik tip, when doing the front pads there is no way to turn the brake piston (at least is that way on S13's) the notches are missing, but like you mentioned used the compressor or a simple C clamp will do....

interesting you note there aren't any notches on the fronts for s13's. unless someone else mentions it or if there are any comfirmations, when i do my front pads, i'll check to see if the notches are there as well.

but i'm definitely "investing" in a pistion compressor for my next brake job. turning the piston w/ a needlenose is kinda tough - especially since the seals were all mucky.

kepani

[DAEDALUS]

Great info Kepani! Replacing the pads are a bigger challenge than a lot of other jobs, such as removing the shift knob. I'm sure it'll help others. If you ever get pics, please upload them into the thread.

[amolao]

I just replaced my front pads this past weekend and there was no notches, a C clamp worked perfectly, and yes I do have notches on my rear brake pistons.....on those I use the "stick needle nose plier and turn" technique... I also got some caliper duplicolor and went for the bling bling effect, in conjunction with new brembo rotors. The paint job on the OEM caliper came out pretty nice.....

[amolao]

Ohh something else, the 2 little shafts that holds the pads on the bracket, you should slide those carefully (dont tear the little rubber boots) and lube them before putting everything back together.......my $.02....

[sanioll]

well, Gentle MEN, i certainly do apologize for my expertized burst. no really, it's really a complete step by step i wanna see, so does everyone else. Just always make sure you align that pin on the back of brake pad and cylinder coming out of the caliper. also, rear calipers pushed apart by twisting them, using special tool, which can be rented from the autozone.

and also:

Take a computer apart and put it back together in 35 minutes flat I can do.

too slow dude, way too slow.

good luck w/brake changes

[BadMojo]

Ohh something else, the 2 little shafts that holds the pads on the bracket, you should slide those carefully (dont tear the little rubber boots) and lube them before putting everything back together.......my $.02....

Yup...putting some caliper lube on those pins helped to quiet down my brakes a great deal.

Also, you can get a little adapter thing for < $5 that will make it VERY easy to turn your rear brake pistons in.

Most important thing to remember: push in the front pistons, turn in the rear ones. This will help you avoid much frustration.

[navysnail]

yup, turning is just because of the way the parking brake works, they have to be screwed back.

i know alot of people will find this very helpful, there is a fair share of posts concerning rear pad replacement.