Rear Brake Caliper sticking on Q:help

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Jeff Williams
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I noticed a scraping sound, yesterday on my left rear wheel. When I got home, I took the wheel off, and inspected the brakes. The outer pad is fine(I just put brakes on, about 8,000 miles ago), but the inner pad is 90% GONE! Now I need front & rear rotors. It's time for the Brady Cross-Drilled & Slotted.

When I loosened the bolts, and swung the caliper away, I noticed the upper bolt was seriously stuck. I could not remove it. Like the grease that allows the pin to slide, ans the pad wears, had turned to glue.

I tried to remove the pin, but was unsuccessful. I know I need to get a couple gallons of break cleaner, and clean it up, but is there any reason this upper bolt coes not come out?

When I replaced the pads, I just removed the lower bolt and swung the caliper up, to get to the pads (I am a little lazy).

Any help would be great.


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Not totally cleaning the pins and sanding them smooth of the old pin grease and not using the correct ultra high temp grease. At each pad change...........heck I regrease everything at each 6,000 mile rotor retrue. Sometimes I change the pads when they are half worn to delay the heat transfer to calipers.

These marginal [heat capacity] brakes take some serious maintenance ALL THE TIME.

Remember they thought the car would be traded at 60k-70k at best........you have exceeded the warranty by 100,000 miles and the design age limit by 60k.They assummed that the brakes would be redone every 20k.

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Jeff Williams
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Dennis, Thanks for the info. I ment to ask about the grease, and I am glad you responded. It's like you read my mind.

I am looking at the irotors cross drilled/slotted. What is you recommendation, for pads? Noise is not a big issue, not nearly as big as stopping.

maxnix
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Jeff Williams wrote:I am looking at the irotors cross drilled/slotted. What is you recommendation, for pads? Noise is not a big issue, not nearly as big as stopping.
Jeff, Might do a search for "Brakes". This one has been seriously flogged before.

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Q451990
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I'm probably going to go back with PowerStop - they seem to be the only source for reliable quality in drilled non-OEM rotors. I think a group buy on PowerStop rotors may be in the near future.

Heath

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Q451990
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Dennis,

What kind of grease do you recommend for the caliper pins?

Heath

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elwesso
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Ill go for a group buy on rotors!!!

Q45tech
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http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/301http ... oe....html

Might find this interesting, how ceramic pads are not good above 500F and wear faster than semi metallics.One panic stop per 10 minutes........scarey!http://www.akebonobrake.com/co...h.pdf

"The parent company has about a 40% market share in Japan. The corporation has achieved a 28% market share in North America. There is something to be said for concentrating on one's competency"

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/

use the search function for ceramic pads and multi other things you will be rewarded with hundreds of excellant articles

"These high-tech ABS systems are closely calibrated to the friction characteristics of the OEM brake linings so it's important that aftermarket replacement linings closely match the OEM linings to maintain the same operating characteristics of these systems."

"For this reason, brake experts now recommend relining both the front and rear brakes at the same time with application-specific linings from the same supplier. This approach, though more costly, can minimize the risk of mismatched brakes if the rear brakes are not relined until later."

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Jeff Williams
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Heath, I bought the Permatex Caliper grease. it was $9.99, and ther si enough for 2,000 to 5,000 applications.

Dennis, The upper pin was nearly welded in. I had to remove the pads, then use a hammer, to influence the caliper back, to remove the pin. It was covered with a dust/grease-like glue.

Repeated cleanings with the brake cleaner, and a little light sanding, got it back to new.

New set of pads, and some grease, I am now back on the road.

Thanks for all your help.

I have decided to go with iRotors(best price), but specify Bradi rotors, with the zinc plating. I might get a complete set of pads from them, at the same time, to do a thorough test of their products.

This Forun rocks!:ylsuper

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Q451990
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Jeff Williams wrote:I have decided to go with iRotors(best price), but specify Bradi rotors, with the zinc plating. I might get a complete set of pads from them, at the same time, to do a thorough test of their products.


Someone here checked recently with iRotors and said that they're not able to get more Bradi blanks due to some sort of legal dispute between Bradi and Brembo. I think they were going to substitute a domestic rotor that's "just as good." One member had major problems with his iRotor purchase and couldn't get any help from them - while another had good results and no issues. I wonder if one got Bradi blanks, and the other one got the domestic ones.

Looks like iRotors will be a gamble, but you may be fine. I think I can still get PowerStop from Olympic parts for $88/ea - and given that I've been using my last set for about 60-70K with good results, I'm probably going to stick with them. As far as aftermarket brake pads, I tried some with my PowerStops the first time. They were great for the first 4-5K and then glazed the rotors and started making a hellacious noise. Luckily they refunded the purchase price and I went back to OEM.

Check out this thread!

Heath

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With Powerstops only oem pads or Metal Masters on front oem on rear. Then you get the stopped groan when released but such is life


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