Ready to install...few last minute questions

[dj_hype]

First off, hi yall. This is my first post here so I'm gonna try and not sound like an idiot although it probably won't work.

Like the name say, I'm about ready to install my pieced together kit and have a few last minute questions before I finally go KA-T. But first, a little background.Car: 1997 Base ModelGarrett T3 Turbo (from Audi 9000T)SSAC Top mount maniX-Large eBay IntercoolerCustom IC pipingCustom DPMSD BTMVortech 8:1 FMUWalbro 255 LPHCustom Flare Fitting Stainless Braided Oil Line crap...Vodoo II MBC (eBay, $12)JDM Blitz BOV (recirculated)Maximum Boost by Corky Bell (Just because)

Ok, first, please don't try and talk me out of the FMU. It's cheap, it will get me by for a while until I get some financial situations taken care of. I'm only looking to boost 6-7 psi. Car will be daily driver.

1) Is the MSD BTM necessary for 6-7 psi? Some say yes, others say no. Since I bought it I'll probably use it.

2) Can I expect to run rich or lean or just about right with this 8:1 fmu at 6-7 psi? My calcultions show that at 6psi x 8 = 48 + 40 = 88 psi on the fuel rail. Actual flow being forced through injectors would be somwhere close to 386 CC/min (SQRT(Rail PSI/Base PSI)*Inj. Size (SQRT(88/40)*260=385.6)). Rail psi at 7psi boost is 96psi...a little close IMO.

3) When making the DP, do I need to weld in a bung for the stock O2 sensor or is that located on a the piece of piping that connects the DP to the cat/rest of exhaust system?

4) With the IC piping, can I just use couplers or should I/will I need to weld some of these pipes together?

5) This really has nothing to do with Turboing my KA but, I'm buying a 95 J30 diff and was wondering if thats all I needed to buy? I know I may have to find a shorter driveshaft but, will I need to find different output shafts or can I use the ones that are already on the car (97 base model with open diff)?

Thanks for any and all answers. I can't wait to go KA-T. Peace yall.

[crzycav86]

1) Is the MSD BTM necessary for 6-7 psi? Some say yes, others say no. Since I bought it I'll probably use it.

2) Can I expect to run rich or lean or just about right with this 8:1 fmu at 6-7 psi? My calcultions show that at 6psi x 8 = 48 + 40 = 88 psi on the fuel rail. Actual flow being forced through injectors would be somwhere close to 386 CC/min (SQRT(Rail PSI/Base PSI)*Inj. Size (SQRT(88/40)*260=385.6)). Rail psi at 7psi boost is 96psi...a little close IMO.

3) When making the DP, do I need to weld in a bung for the stock O2 sensor or is that located on a the piece of piping that connects the DP to the cat/rest of exhaust system?

4) With the IC piping, can I just use couplers or should I/will I need to weld some of these pipes together?

5) This really has nothing to do with Turboing my KA but, I'm buying a 95 J30 diff and was wondering if thats all I needed to buy? I know I may have to find a shorter driveshaft but, will I need to find different output shafts or can I use the ones that are already on the car (97 base model with open diff)?

Thanks for any and all answers. I can't wait to go KA-T. Peace yall.

Hey. Not bad for a first post. You seem to have done some research. Welcome to NICO.

To answer your questions:

1) Typically, you don't need to retard timing until after 8 or so psi. However, since you have the BTM, I would go ahead and use it. Set it to .5* per psi, and you'll be golden.

2) You'd probably be decently rich(around 10:1). At 5psi, my 370cc's would stay at around 10:1 with zero correction on the safc.(I'm using a t3 as well btw). I'd still take it to a dyno though.

3) The O2 sensor is mounted on the stock manifold. When you go turbo, you'll want to have it welded on the downpipe about a foot from the turbo. You also have a second O2 sensor after the catalytic convertor. You won't have to mess with that one though.

4) You'll most likely have to weld a few of your pipes. You could probably get by with all couplers, but you'll have a lot of couplers, and a higher chance of them blowing off. Also, if you want to keep your stock batter location, you're gonna have some tricky cold-pipe routing. You'll wanna have that welded, because you'll have a bunch of little pieces of pipe.(at least I did)

5) yeah the differential will drop right in. Check this site out: http://www.ka24development.com/vlsd.html

Good luck.

[get_up_mark]

You also have a second O2 sensor after the catalytic convertor. You won't have to mess with that one though.

Good luck.

is it neccasary to use the second o2 sensor, i wil have nowhere to put it once i convert to a test pipe? what will the ecu respond like if the second o2 sensor is disconnected?

[crzycav86]

is it neccasary to use the second o2 sensor, i wil have nowhere to put it once i convert to a test pipe? what will the ecu respond like if the second o2 sensor is disconnected?

Well, if you're going to use a test pipe, you will never pass emissions. The second o2 sensor is there to test the effectiveness of the cat. So in your case, you can just leave it unplugged. I'm pretty sure the second o2 sensor doesn't have any bearing on performance.... but perhaps the obd2 guys can chime in on that one.

[virus77]

2nd 02 is garbage, get no need to have it.

[dj_hype]

thanks crazy cav for the welcome and the useful information. I'm doing a mock up not this weekend but next and then the weekend after that I'll probably be doing the install. i'll keep yall posted. i plan to do a full write up with a ton of pictures that will be hosted on my website (see sig below). hopefully, yall will be able to point people to that if they have questions about installing a turbo system on their 240. again thanks yall and i'll keep ya posted.

[sunnys14]

2nd 02 is garbage, get no need to have it.

yeah, i didnt even weld a new o2 bung onto my downpipe for the 2nd o2 sensor.