read defrost question

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wild_maxx
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Joined: Mon Jun 28, 2004 11:07 am
Car: 90 TT pearl yellow z32
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my rear defroster does not work so i figured i might as well find out why. first off, am i using the correct setting to check for continuity (sp?) i know there must be a break in the defrost line or something cause it will not work. i checked the fuses and they are all fine. the switch itself will light up as well but the defrost lines do not heat up.

correct setting to check?

ok so if i check from this terminal #1 to the next terminal #2 it will get a solid "beep" from the mulitmeter meaning that there is continuity correct?terminal #1

terminal #2

now when i check the third terminal ( which doesnt look like a terminal it just looks like its soldiered to the window) i dont not have continuity. #3

there is the same terminal on the pass. side of the rear window as well and i do have cont. when i checked it. the only place i am not getting any cont. is to the third connection. any help?


NISTECH
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Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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I think your third connection is an antenna. you should only have 2 for the defroster. one at either side with a black connector on a lug. your gettin a bit ahead of your self. You need to see if power is even being sent to the grid, you also need to check for continuity to ground on the other side of the grid.

turn on the defroster and put your neter on the 20v scale and test for power at both the connectors ,[make sure they are both unpluged from the glass.] if one has 12 volts getting to it you know its ok. on the oppisite side of the window check for continuity to ground on that black plug with your meter set to the 200 ohm scale.

What you are using on your meter in the picture is a diode check, although it does work for quick contiunuity checks it really doesnt help much in checking the integrity of a circuit.

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wild_maxx
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i get 12 volts on connection #2 but not #1 so that is the problem. all the fuses are good so what do you suggest i should do?

NISTECH
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your not testing it right. on one side of the glass there is a terminal with a black connector on it, on the other side there is an identical connector. Find which one has power, one of the 2 will. The other one is the ground. with both connectors pluged in and the defroster turned on put you red lead of your voltmeter on the glass terminal, place your black lead on a good body ground. now your measureing voltage, it should not be higher then .2v if the grid is powered up properly you shouldnt see 12 volts on the other side of the grid.

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wild_maxx
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i checked the way you said and the pass. side connector has power to it but only when i ground it to the chassy. if i connect driver side connector and pass. side connector i dont have any voltage.

NISTECH
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ugh I am getting confused, what did I say??..lol

ok let me start over here.. plug everything in the way its suppose to be.

turn the defroster on.

place your red lead on one terminal[with it plugged in]

place your black lead on the other terminal [with it plugged in]

you should see 12 volts [or -12v depending on your polarity of your leads]

If you dont have any voltage, leave the red lead where it is and move the black lead to a good body ground and see if voltage is present now.

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wild_maxx
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i did what you said and i dont get any voltage when i connect to both of the plugs on the window. when i connect to the pass. side connection and ground the meter on the chassy i do get 12 volts to one of the connectors but not the other.

NISTECH
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Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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ok got you now put your neg lead of your probe on the body grond and place the posiotve one in the middle of the glass directly on on of the traces. If you have voltage at the traces your negative terminal is not making contact with the grid strip. if you dont have power your poistive terminal is not in good conytact with the grid strip. The grid is mearly wire across the glass.


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