RE7R01A(Nissan/Infiniti 7-Speed) and Amsoil ATF

[anewstartinchrist]

I recently had my local Nissan dealer service my car. I had them do a transmission flush service. I bought the car recently and I noticed it had harder shift points before I purchased it. The day I bought the car I had Nissan do the service with the Matic S fluid. I'd say it started shifting about 40-50% better. However it still shifts a little rough at times or jerks at times. Nothing drastically wrong and no codes. I've been told that these 7 speeds are typically like this. My goal is to drop the pan and change the filter which Infiniti says is not "serviceable". They said I'd have to get the entire valve body lol... for like $2k... Yea right... I'll change the gasket and the filter and torque everything to spec. I do suspect that I'll end up draining 4-6 quarts doing it this way. Amsoil recommends the Signature Series Fuel Efficient ATF fluid and the "OE" Fuel Efficient ATF for my 2012 m37x which is Matic S compatible and can be mixed. I already have 6 quarts of the signature series I was going to use for my Titan and I already use Amsoil products for everything else with great results. After dropping the pan this time and I plan on doing a few drain and fills after this. Anyone have experience using Amsoil ATF for their transmission fluid? Specifically for the RE7R01A(Nissan/Infiniti 7-Speed). If so, what was your experience?

Does anyone know the torque specs for the trans filter? I believe it is 80 inch lbs.

[Ilya]

Haven't used Amsoil ATF in many years (did use it on my Maxima's and it was fine) but the shifting is definitely a little clunky...especially downshift from 2 to 1 when in manual mode.

[anewstartinchrist]

Haven't used Amsoil ATF in many years (did use it on my Maxima's and it was fine) but the shifting is definitely a little clunky...especially downshift from 2 to 1 when in manual mode.

I was quite surprised lol. I spoke to the parts guy at my local Nissan dealer and he owned a Q50 or Q60. He said the same thing. I figured Amsoil would help smooth it out. But my theory is that the filter isn't flowing as freely due to debris so the fluid isn't flowing as it should. There are times when it shifts smooth and times when it's rougher and will jerk. I plan on dropping the pan soon and changing the filter & can gasket. I will get the torque specs from the service manual.

[sshocker96]

I did a spill and fill using signature series last year at around 55K. I didn’t notice any difference, but I’m not having any ‘problems’. I do have the slow downshift symptoms like everyone else, but my Q40 behaved the same way so I consider it normal.

If you’re AWD, consider doing both axles and the transfer case.

[Ilya]

I think it's the programming of the TCU on these cars. They will hunt for gears sometimes too, etc. Those that are UpRev tuned (like myself) report much better transmission response after the tune if you get tuned by Seymore4 on here.

[VStar650CL]

I think it's the programming of the TCU on these cars. They will hunt for gears sometimes too, etc. Those that are UpRev tuned (like myself) report much better transmission response after the tune if you get tuned by Seymore4 on here.

I know this Alphabet Soup 101, but for clarity (not being critical), you should say "TCM" when you mean the transmission controller. On a Nissan product, "TCU" means the Telematics controller. Many of the M's and descendant Q's have a TCU, so that can definitely make for confusion.

[Ilya]

Good clarification - TCU was the first acronym that popped into mind and I blame video games since that's how they usually refer to the transmission computer/controller hah.

[anewstartinchrist]

I did a spill and fill using signature series last year at around 55K. I didn’t notice any difference, but I’m not having any ‘problems’. I do have the slow downshift symptoms like everyone else, but my Q40 behaved the same way so I consider it normal.

If you’re AWD, consider doing both axles and the transmission case.

I figured it wouldn't hurt to do the ATF drain and fill procedure with the Amsoil ATF but also changing the filter so I can get more fluid out. I will probably make a drawn out schematic for the filter on a piece of cardboard to be sure I put the bolts back in the right order and place. I got a filter from Oreilly's that I will be sure is completely clean. It seems to have some kind of wax on it. I will use a degreaser, then wash it with some Dawn soap/water. Then I'll probably hit it with some electronics cleaner to be sure there isn't any residue on it. I'm already ahead of you on the oil changes on the Front/Rear Differential and T-Case using Amsoil . I'm not sure if/when it was ever changed bc there was no record on CarFax and the previous owner said he never touched them. I'm also considering using Lubegard products with the Nissan Matic S Fluid first to see if it makes difference but Amsoil is probably just as good or better. I did the same with my 2010 Nissan Titan and used Lubegard and its shifts are pretty smooth. I just know if there was ever an issue and I tried to seek a remedy through Amsoil's warranty they'd deny it bc I used another additive. Decisions...decisions.. I appreciate the engagement.

[anewstartinchrist]

I think it's the programming of the TCU on these cars. They will hunt for gears sometimes too, etc. Those that are UpRev tuned (like myself) report much better transmission response after the tune if you get tuned by Seymore4 on here.

Thank you for letting me know. I have no knowledge on how to tune a vehicle or where to start but I will look into it and also explore some local options. I'm honestly looking for an Infiniti/Nissan community locally in the Triad of NC for networking and learning.

[Ilya]

I think it's the programming of the TCU on these cars. They will hunt for gears sometimes too, etc. Those that are UpRev tuned (like myself) report much better transmission response after the tune if you get tuned by Seymore4 on here.

Thank you for letting me know. I have no knowledge on how to tune a vehicle or where to start but I will look into it and also explore some local options. I'm honestly looking for an Infiniti/Nissan community locally in the Triad of NC for networking and learning.

Seymore4 is a user on here based in WA. He remote tuned my car after I gathered data for him using UpRev's software, etc.

seymore4-u197822.html

[anewstartinchrist]

Just finished up on the ATF replacement with Amsoil Signature Series Fuel Efficient ATF. It took me two days. I ended up dropping the pan and changing the filter the first day and put everything back together and torqued to spec. The second day, today, I refilled the transmission according to the service manual. So I needed almost 8 quarts. Man it was tough but I am thankful for the service manuals on here. I followed the manual as best I could. I don't have access to a lift so I had to get the car off all fours onto jack stands. I prayed the whole time I was under the car lol. But I had my jacks in place too just in case. I replaced the pan gasket and all of the pan bolts and the drain bolt with OEM hardware. The pan did have material on the magnets but I cleaned everything off and scraped the rim of the pan and the mating surface with a razor blade. The old filter was dirty and I did see some build-up of clutch material in places. For some reason I could not find the new fill plug I'm sure I purchased so I had to use the old one which was kind of rusted where the T30 torx screw head goes into the bolt. When I tried to torque it to spec it started to round off so I couldn't tighten it to spec. I believe I have it tight enough but I will need to get a new one and replace it asap. But I hope I can get it back off. I believe the torque spec was 9 ft. lbs or 108 inch lbs. I was using my inch lbs. torque wrench since the foot lb amount is so low. The torx bit and bolt initially got stuck together when I took it out so I had to use Kroil and do some prying to get them apart. That may be why I have the issue I have now. But I will check for leaks over the next two weeks until I can get the fill plug.
As far as how the transmission shifts, it does feel smoother. I am not getting the shudder and drop in rpm's I was getting when shifting between park, reverse, & drive. I noticed that I still have a slight slip when accelerating, but not as bad, and first gear is still a little sticky but the rest of the gear shifting is smooth as silk which wasn't the case before. I will do a drain and fill and will just replace what drains out in the future. I think as I continue to replace the fluid with more Amsoil ATF things will smooth out more. I will continue to post updates. Definitely made a mess in my driveway when I dropped the pan but I consider it all a good learning experience. I did this service at 177,350 miles and had Nissan do a flush when I bought the car at around 173,430 miles in October of 2024.

[emm3seven]

Just finished up on the ATF replacement with Amsoil Signature Series Fuel Efficient ATF.

First of all, thanks for bringing us along on this! I'm going to be doing a lot of this same work on my 2011 M37x in the next couple of months, and sharing your experience in detail definitely helps.

I'm curious about a few things:

• Checking in at the 2 month mark, how is performance with the Amsoil ATF?
• If you had to do it again, would you bother to replace the filter?
• What did you end up using for torque spec on the bolts for the filter?

Thanks!

[Q70sGuy]

The issues you describe about the 7 speed with the M are just normal behaviour in my opinion. That first gear really doesnt move unless you hit the throttle and I blame that on the stock tune, especially is normal or eco mode. Sport mode feels more like a normal car. I had my fluid changed at 100k KM (60k miles) and its changed absolutely nothing in how my transmission drove. I also saw a TSB from infiniti that the transmission fluid will become dark almost instantly so color is not an indicator of quality (as long as its red and not brown or something). I am curious how did your filter look though, did you notice anything concerning there?
Also I'd avoid downshifting from 2 to 1, unless youre at extremely low speeds coming to a stop, at least from my experience with manual cars thats an extreme gear change and is never smooth since the ratios are massive between them...

[anewstartinchrist]

Just finished up on the ATF replacement with Amsoil Signature Series Fuel Efficient ATF.

First of all, thanks for bringing us along on this! I'm going to be doing a lot of this same work on my 2011 M37x in the next couple of months, and sharing your experience in detail definitely helps.

I'm curious about a few things:

• Checking in at the 2 month mark, how is performance with the Amsoil ATF?
• If you had to do it again, would you bother to replace the filter?
• What did you end up using for torque spec on the bolts for the filter?

Thanks!

No problem! I am grateful for this forum full of owners who have similar experiences with crazy knowledge on these cars! So far so good on the Amsoil ATF. I wanted to do another drain and fill but had somehow lost the new fill bolt from the first time I dropped the pan and changed the fluid and filter so I had to use the old one which ended up with a stripped head. So I had to buy a new pan, gasket and fill/drain plugs. When I first bought the car I had the Nissan dealer do a flush and they DID NOT change the drain and fill bolts like the service manuals tell you to do every time you do this service. So it is what it is. As far as the filter, I created a template out of cardboard to place the bolts into because there are 3 different sizes and they MUST, I repeat, THEY MUST go back in the same places. Otherwise you could end up damaging the valve body. SO I suggest you do the same with the new filter as a guide when you get it. Feel free to review the service manual section for the M/Q70 on this forum to find what you need on torque specs for everything. I referred to the TM-181(page) of the TM manual(Transaxle & Transmission) for my 2012 model. I torqued the filter bolts to 70 inch-lbs using an inch lb torque wrench. I noticed that according to the diagram on that page there were bolts on the valve body torqued to that amount so I used that number. When dropping the pan the 2nd time it was still tight and not loose. I would replace the filter as preventative maintenance. There was little bit of material in the filter but nothing alarming. So it won't have to be replaced again for the life of the car. Right now I am having some vibration through the car which I thought might be a wheel bearing but I am leaning towards the driveshaft flex disk which I need to inspect. 've already had the tires rotated and rebalanced so I know that's not it. I have considered the torque converter or the engine & transmission mounts but I am not sure. I watched this video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yCxhyTlysw. And I am having the exact same symptoms so I may start there. This is a common fail point on Infiniti's too and when they fail they cause horrible damage that is costly. Let me know your thoughts and if you have any other questions.

[anewstartinchrist]

The issues you describe about the 7 speed with the M are just normal behaviour in my opinion. That first gear really doesnt move unless you hit the throttle and I blame that on the stock tune, especially is normal or eco mode. Sport mode feels more like a normal car. I had my fluid changed at 100k KM (60k miles) and its changed absolutely nothing in how my transmission drove. I also saw a TSB from infiniti that the transmission fluid will become dark almost instantly so color is not an indicator of quality (as long as its red and not brown or something). I am curious how did your filter look though, did you notice anything concerning there?
Also I'd avoid downshifting from 2 to 1, unless youre at extremely low speeds coming to a stop, at least from my experience with manual cars thats an extreme gear change and is never smooth since the ratios are massive between them...

Thanks for you input! The transmission fluid was a dark red when I drained it myself the 1st time around. I had the dealer do a flush when I bought the car in October 2024. When I changed the ATF & filter the first time myself I didn't notice anything too alarming. I did have more clutch material on the magnets than I was more comfortable with. But I believe out of 170k+ it was the 1st time the pan was dropped so it was probably normal considering that. I plan on somehow resetting the TCM to hopefully get the car adapted to how I drive. I don't want to have to drive around in SPORT mode all of the time. Right now I am experiencing some vibrations throughout the drivetrain mainly when I first drive it in the morning but as of yesterday I felt it on the highway as well. I've considered the front wheel bearings & the engine & trans mounts. I've already had the tires rotated and rebalanced so I know that's not it. I recently watched a video speaking on the flex disk which I know is a common failure point on Infiniti's which can cause costly damage. The video is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yCxhyTlysw. I am experiencing the same symptoms in this video. I will probably make a separate post on this topic for help & input. I don't drive in manual mode either so going from 2 to 1 won't be an issue. I appreciate it.