Re-shimming DE valve buckets

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slipnfall
Posts: 1819
Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 9:43 am
Car: '06 D40

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Hi folks, I dropped my head off at the machine shop to have a general clean-up and basic valve job. I marked my buckets with intentions of re-installing them in the same position. The machinist told me that wouldn't work, since if he had to grind the valves, that it would need re-shimmed. So I went to Nissan, and they told me that they will sell me individual shims. Good deal.

First question is, anyone have a source for the two tools listed in the FSM?(one is to rotate the cam, the other is to 'jam' the bucket down). Local Nissan didn't have a tel. number for the mfg'r of the tool(can't remember it off hand).

Second, how exactly are these tools used? The FSM doesn't give a good explaination. You rotate the lobe to press down the bucket, but what exactly do you do with the other tool? Do I wedge this between the cam(not lobe) and the outer-rim of the bucket? Do the lobes ride directly on top of the shims, or is the top-most one a retainer of sorts?

Thanks folks,-Jamie


slipnfall
Posts: 1819
Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 9:43 am
Car: '06 D40

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FYI, I'v found the service tool at http://www.spxkentmoore.com

::edit:: holy #$(*#, they want $130 for this tool! ::edit::
Modified by slipnfall at 1:01 PM 12/9/2004

s13sr20chris
Posts: 4148
Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 9:32 am
Car: '89 Nissan S13 w/redtop running 13psi and not leaking fuel anymore
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the tools are unnecesary if you cant afford it. i have seen guys just use some screwdrivers and be very carefull. the point is to push down on the bucket and pop out the shim. it does not matter how you push the bucket as long as you stay away from that cam lobe. then i like to use a magnet to grab the shim. the heck with that little spoon thing.

slipnfall
Posts: 1819
Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 9:43 am
Car: '06 D40

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Oh IC. Well I did end up finding both tools in a set for $28. It's at http://zdmak.com/wbstore/main....wCt=0 Not too bad.

Anyways, I think I get the jist of what has to be done. One last question: the FSM says to measure lash while the engine is hot, which makes sense. However I need to get my shims close to even start the car. How can I avoid ordering shims twice(and end up with some I don't need)? Now I know I can get it close by swapping in the original shims, but my machinist said that if he grinds the valves, it will affect the over-all valve length. These shorter stems will make for tigher clearances.

He said he has been bitten before trying to grind down valve stem tips on other foreign cars: should I make him return the stem to OEM length anyways? Local Nissan said to make up for the difference in length w/the shims.

I know it sounds gheto, but can I heat the head/cams (ie a heat gun) to get a closer adjustment?

Thx for the response!-Jamie

s13sr20chris
Posts: 4148
Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 9:32 am
Car: '89 Nissan S13 w/redtop running 13psi and not leaking fuel anymore
Contact:

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wow, i never thought about a heat gun! thats a great idea. still wont be a "hot" measurement but it should be closer. i have always just done it cold and never had any probs. i think sticking it in the oven at 180 for a few minutes would prob be a good idea.

navysnail
Posts: 3335
Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2004 1:33 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX fastback

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i *think* the fsm says to heat it in oil or somthing at 350 degrees, not sure on that one though, ill check up on it

slipnfall
Posts: 1819
Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 9:43 am
Car: '06 D40

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Yeah I like the oven idea better, it would surely give better heat distribution. I *think* the oil bath is to remove the guides, but I may be wrong. We'll see: I don't think my better half will like the idea of cooking motor oil in her oven. :-) Hearing that the valve lash has been equally close being cold eases my mind a bit.

Thanks folks,-Jamie


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