Re: Important Gauges

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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scotty-2-forty
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Someone from a while back was asking what gauges were important for monitoring his turbo set-up. My answer was first and foremost, oil pressure. Hmm, I wonder why? ;)

This is what happened to me after the second engine tear down. It could have been worse all things considered, but the oil pressure gauge once again saves the day! (This was back in late January)



While I was in there, figured I'd swap out the oil pump, since it was the only thing I didn't replace new during the fresh build. Some scoring was noted, so in with a new one!



Also pulled the crank main and #1 rod bearings ... looked good :) ... no problem!


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sil80drifter
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what exactly was the problem there? i can tell that the little oil seal is mangled... anything else?

sil80

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I’m confused as well…did you have an oil leak?

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klattr1
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scotty.............have u done a compression test on your motor yet?I got 128, 130, 128, 128 on my 8.5:1 and made 310 rwhp at 17 psi of boost. It seemed low to me but I wanted to see if you had close to same results since you have the same static compression ratio and the longer duration Jim Wolf cams like me.Let me know thanks!

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scotty-2-forty
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sil80drifter wrote:what exactly was the problem there? i can tell that the little oil seal is mangled... anything else?

sil80


Well, aside from the leak, apparently the pump was bad (or getting there) too. The new one has a bit different design in the fins ... maybe Nissan new???

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scotty-2-forty
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klattr1 wrote:scotty.............have u done a compression test on your motor yet?I got 128, 130, 128, 128 on my 8.5:1 and made 310 rwhp at 17 psi of boost. It seemed low to me but I wanted to see if you had close to same results since you have the same static compression ratio and the longer duration Jim Wolf cams like me.Let me know thanks!


No compression test just yet ... dyno day is coming "soon", so we'll be doing some other diagnostics then too. I say "soon" because everyone's just too dern busy (including me)!

Projex240
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He has cam gears tho homie---keep tell ya that :)

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sil80drifter
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scotty, btw you have one of the best clean looking s14 koukis I've seen yet. no asskissing, just realized that when looked at the pic. usually i don't like koukis, cuz they look too much like a mazda 626 in the front, kinda blunt and without character. yours is different, congrats on the well chosen wheel/paint/body trim options.

sil80

j-z
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i agree with you scotty about the important gauges. when im asked i always say oil pressure because without any oil flowing you have no motor. good thing you caught it before something severe happened. also im gonna agree with sil80drifter. your car is clean as hell man. i would love to see it in person, perhaps watch it in action when you get it on the dyno. i have a lil somethin brewin up over here and when its done i would love to go out for a drive with a fellow boosted 240 owner. later

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WDRacing
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Damn Scotty, atleast you caught it before you had major bearing damage.

I'm buying an nice oil pressure gauge with the low pressure HEY LOOK AT ME!!! light just for that reason.

Quick question, what pump did you go with? Do you think the return passages from the head to the pan are big enough to support high hp and more revs? I was contemplating having my race block's oil passages enlarged. I knwo the RB26 suffers from this problem. Just a thought, ket me know.

WD

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scotty-2-forty
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Projex240 wrote:He has cam gears tho homie---keep tell ya that :)


D*mn right, yo! Camzin ma schnizzle ba quizzle yizzle, yotch! PAYCE!! :D

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scotty-2-forty
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sil80drifter wrote:scotty, btw you have one of the best clean looking s14 koukis I've seen yet. no asskissing, just realized that when looked at the pic. usually i don't like koukis, cuz they look too much like a mazda 626 in the front, kinda blunt and without character. yours is different, congrats on the well chosen wheel/paint/body trim options.

sil80


Thank-you ... thank-you ... thank-you ...

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scotty-2-forty
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j-z wrote:i agree with you scotty about the important gauges. when im asked i always say oil pressure because without any oil flowing you have no motor. good thing you caught it before something severe happened. also im gonna agree with sil80drifter. your car is clean as hell man. i would love to see it in person, perhaps watch it in action when you get it on the dyno. i have a lil somethin brewin up over here and when its done i would love to go out for a drive with a fellow boosted 240 owner. later


Yes, oil is the blood of any engine ...

I'll be dyno'd at Speed Injected here in Hallandale Beach ... I'll announce when (when I know) and as well, I'm going to try to video it. Watch for the announcement and maybe you can schedule time to drive down here to see. :)

Oh, and thank-you ... thank-you ... thank-you ... it's all these compliments that keep me hangin'round! :D

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scotty-2-forty
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WDRacing wrote:Damn Scotty, atleast you caught it before you had major bearing damage.

I'm buying an nice oil pressure gauge with the low pressure HEY LOOK AT ME!!! light just for that reason.

Quick question, what pump did you go with? Do you think the return passages from the head to the pan are big enough to support high hp and more revs? I was contemplating having my race block's oil passages enlarged. I knwo the RB26 suffers from this problem. Just a thought, ket me know.

WD


I'm doing the same with the oil pressure gauge, adding a VERY bright light ... hell, I might go as far as headphones and a vibrating seatback!

As for what pump, it's a new OEM version of the KA24DE oil pump right from Nissan. Apparently they redesigned the fins. I might add that I shimmed the pump to produce more pressure (approx. 18-20psi at idle cold, 10-12psi hot). I have seen a few 400hp+ KA's with no oil pressure problems running this method. Enlarging the passages *might* reduce pressure, but I'm no rocket scientist ... just a test pilot. :D

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sil80drifter
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does anyone know if the DE oil pump will fit the E block? how do you shim the fins?

sil80

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scotty-2-forty
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Ack ... just caught myself :alcoholic . It's not the pump that is shimmed, it's the oil pressure regulator. In any event sil80drifter, you can't shim the fins ... :slap .

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sil80drifter wrote:scotty, btw you have one of the best clean looking s14 koukis I've seen yet.
umm....if you're talking about the one in his sigpic, I'm pretty sure that's a zenki S14.

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sil80drifter
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ur right, i messed up, zenki is 1st gen and kouki is 2nd gen

my blah

how do you shim the oil pressure regulator?

sil80

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scotty-2-forty
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sil80drifter wrote:ur right, i messed up, zenki is 1st gen and kouki is 2nd gen

my blah

how do you shim the oil pressure regulator?

sil80


Alright, well, without giving away too many of my secrets ... It's an old racer's trick by which you increase pressure by stiffening the spring in the regulator ... add washers. That's all you get. :P

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sil80drifter
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mhm, ok. i don't get it.maybe i'm not supposed to get it yet.thank anyway tho :)

sil80

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WDRacing
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Instead of adding a stiffer spring, you simply shim the stock spring, therefore increasing spring tension and increasing pressure. Not somthing to play with if your not competent.

WD

Projex240
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Same way you increase pressure on a BOV thats design like the turbo xs RFL. Putting shims in it makes it stiffer-----viagra for springs.

Scotty---fo shizzle dizzle, thizanks fo' the phiznat hizzelp yizzo.Ive been trying to get my buddy to get those cam gears. He has the JWT cams in his built KA, and recently did a compression test.The numbers were really low. 128-130-128-128I thought it was because of the large overlap on the cams--JWT doesnt even know. I called brian crower at crowere cams and we talked. He told me that the overlap will cause low compression, but too have it that low--the JWT must have ALOT of overlap. The cam gears are the only way to remove the overlap by retarding the intake, and adving the exhaust. However, they look like, and I have been told, they are a bizznitch to install and work with.Any comments? Have you comp tested your motor yet? Do you have unusually low numbers? 8.5:1 is lke 160-ish---128 is just way too low.

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Fo Shizzle Dizzle....it just has a nice ring to it...lol.

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scotty-2-forty
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Projex240 wrote:Same way you increase pressure on a BOV thats design like the turbo xs RFL. Putting shims in it makes it stiffer-----viagra for springs.

Scotty---fo shizzle dizzle, thizanks fo' the phiznat hizzelp yizzo.Ive been trying to get my buddy to get those cam gears. He has the JWT cams in his built KA, and recently did a compression test.The numbers were really low. 128-130-128-128I thought it was because of the large overlap on the cams--JWT doesnt even know. I called brian crower at crowere cams and we talked. He told me that the overlap will cause low compression, but too have it that low--the JWT must have ALOT of overlap. The cam gears are the only way to remove the overlap by retarding the intake, and adving the exhaust. However, they look like, and I have been told, they are a bizznitch to install and work with.Any comments? Have you comp tested your motor yet? Do you have unusually low numbers? 8.5:1 is lke 160-ish---128 is just way too low.


Projex240: Installing the cam gears is no big deal if you know how to install the timing chain. You only have to remove the top of the chain to install and adjust. The only drawback is that the valve cover must be removed, the top of the timing chain removed and the cam bolts as well to re-adjust. But really, I had no intention of any re-adjustments ... just the initial retard/advance to compensate for the larger cam profiles. Worked like a charm and I highly recommend them to those doing performance cam swaps, especially for turbo :) . And no, I haven't done a compression test yet ... will do at the dyno (whenever that occurs) :confused: .

WDRAcing: The whole "fizzle ma nizzle yaz tenzzle centzzle crackzzle *****zzle" drives me insane as I have no freakin' idea what any of that means ... but I do think it's dope, YO! Oh, and thanks for giving up my secrets ... I'll get you my pretty ... AND YOU'RE LITTLE DAWG TOO! :ylsuper

Projex240
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You just put double z's inbetween the two syllables of a word--if it doesnt have 2 to begin with--then you make it have 2.

Example:Scizzoty's 240 is the shizzle yizzo. BTW--shizzle means "****" and "sure"--dizzle means "dawg" im hoping you got that already---:D Its actually alot like a little language.

LMAO--I cant believe i even took the time to post this.

PLEASE let me know about the comp numbers when you hit the dyno. Itll help me out a good bit deciphering what the f is wrong with my buddies numbers. If in fact there is anything worng--it amy just be the lobe seperation. It may actually take some of the overlap out as speeds get up or revs go higher. hmmmmmmm

Its times like this I wish I was a freakin genious

:confused:


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