RB30 Q&A

Post by **REDLN** » Mon Jul 31, 2006 2:56 pm

maybe and i hope your right. What rods are you using?

Post by **Stealth-Z** » Mon Jul 31, 2006 3:02 pm

Spool Rods.

Sent you an email earlier. Lots of info in it.

Post by **REDLN** » Mon Jul 31, 2006 3:55 pm

thanks for the email mate. lots of good info there too. yeah we need a sticky too!! please

Post by **Chaos the Xile** » Mon Jul 31, 2006 4:17 pm

Hey Stealth Z! can u shoot that email this way too? [email protected] Thanx man.

Post by **ISL33P** » Tue Aug 01, 2006 12:35 am

same rods that i have arriving soon. just trying to figure out what pistons/compression ration etc.

Post by **Stealth-Z** » Tue Aug 01, 2006 1:38 am

Piston / CR has been one of my confusion areas of the RB30 build. From information gathered, the key is to initialyassemble the crank, rods and pistons, then measure the piston height. A professional machinist will know how to do this.

Using the flat top Wiseco pistons, a CR range of 7.9 to 9.3 can be obtained through a combination of decking the block, surfacing the head, and head gasket thickness. Up to 1mm can be taken off the head safely while the block can have up to 1.5mm.

Post by **ISL33P** » Tue Aug 01, 2006 1:46 am

yeh going to talk to a local engine builder and see what he says

i like the idea of 9.0:1 with a t51r

Post by **Chaos the Xile** » Tue Aug 01, 2006 5:19 am

Stealth - Z thanks for that email man, mos definatly. Raise your hands if you want a sticky!~

Post by **REDLN** » Tue Aug 01, 2006 9:21 am

that's a nice shinny rod piston combo you got there mate. it'll be a while before i get some of those.

Post by **GTR Shop** » Tue Aug 01, 2006 4:11 pm

If you use a GTR PFC you're going to run into issues using 1 AFM on a single turbo setup.GOing to have to try and fit 2AFM in or go to a D-Jetro.D-Jetro works, but you have to know what you're doign tio get them setup correctly.

Post by **Stealth-Z** » Sat Aug 12, 2006 7:03 am

Thought it would be nice to keep this post going a bit. These are Vid's of a RB30DET in action. It is in a R31 Skyline owned by Skylines Australia member StockyMcStock. Since Australia measures speed in Kilometers, divide his numbers by 1.6. 140KPH would be about 88MPH.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1IP_x_X ... PghQq26gKs

Post by **REDLN** » Sat Aug 12, 2006 4:10 pm

man that sound nice! i can't wait to get mine.

Post by **projeks13** » Sun Aug 13, 2006 10:46 pm

sticky sticky! so's ppl dont have to waste space by asking random questions about a little known swap!

Post by **Chaos the Xile** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 5:03 am

I keeep saying the same thing. STICKY! Soon this will be a sticky when more and more swaps become plentiful. Nice work on the 30! Massive torque I see. In that one vid you can see the car kick out before the camera boggs down!!!

Post by **DanCouga** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 10:03 am

Why not just append information to the RB20DET vs RB25DET vs RB26DETT FAQ? It makes more sense.

Post by **DanCouga** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 6:03 pm

So when I first entertained the idea of doing this, I had a bookmark for a billet crank girdle from a shop in NZ. At some point in time, I lost my favorites. Does anyone know the shop that makes it?

Also, does anyone have information on any RBs running dry sumps? Does anyone know of a dry sump pan available already? How close is the L6 family in regards to the RB? It's a long shot, but I have found plenty of dry sump systems available for them and it would save a nice chunk rather than having a custom one milled.

Post by **GTR Shop** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 6:37 pm

The RB30 girdle is almost IDENTAIL to that found in any of the turbo RBs.Why go to a 1 billet one that would require the std one to be machine up into individual caps??

Dry sumps.. as long as you always have oil at your pickup.. not needed. Few ways around this

Post by **DanCouga** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:57 am

I'm not going to question you on the crank girdle. When I first started researching this project, I had read that RB30s crank girdle and block were slightly weaker and that the billet girdle increased block rigidity. Of course, all of that information came from the manufacturer of the girdle, so they could have been slightly biased.

As for the dry sump vs. wet sump, I would prefer to go dry sump for a few reasons. It would give me the ability to drop the motor farther down to compensate for the 30s taller block. While most sloshing, starvation and churning can be "solved" in a wet sump system, I would prefer to protect my investment and just use a dry sump.

Also, you need to e-mail me back

Post by **REDLN** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 2:00 pm

all most lost this so for a bump i ask how much tall is the rb30 then the others? I need this in a sticky so i can always find this.

Post by **Eikon** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 2:14 pm

This is a great thread you guys!

Too many stickies tend to make forums stale and less intereresting. But this thread should be easy to find.

I edited the RB20 vs RB25 vs RB26 sticky to include a very short description of the RB30 with a link to this thread.

If you guys want... flush out Pro's and Con's of the RB30 to mirror the other engines, and I can add those as well. zer...77883

Post by **DanCouga** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 3:25 am

REDLN wrote:how much tall is the rb30 then the others?

I have read everything from 20mm to 38mm. I don't have a 20/25/26 block, but when I get home tonight I can measure the 30 block for you.

Post by **DanCouga** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 10:24 am

Since this thread is quasi-stickied now, I will go ahead and add useful tidbits as I think of them. First being the DOHC RB30 PDF.

Post by **REDLN** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 2:01 pm

sweet write up you found and posted!!!! So much there that i didn't know. Well the little thing that some don't talk about.

RB30 Q&A

Re: (Stealth-Z)

Re: (REDLN)

Re: (Stealth-Z)

Re: (REDLN)

Re: (ISL33P)

Re: (ISL33P)

Re: (Stealth-Z)

Re:

Re: Re: (Stealth-Z)

Re: RB30 Q&A (Chaos the Xile)

Re: RB30 Q&A (projeks13)

Re: RB30 Q&A (Chaos the Xile)

Re: (DanCouga)

Re: (REDLN)

Re: (REDLN)

Re: (DanCouga)

Re: (DanCouga)

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