RB26DETT Question

[Nesquick]

im plannin on buildin up my 26.

what is the first thing that usually goes on these engines internally?

i wanna build this thing up right and dont want any problems.

thanks for the help

[mattblancarte]

Here's some learnin' for ya.

http://hubpages.com/hub/nissan_rb26

What are you building it for?

[Nesquick]

buildin for a t67.

[Booztd 3]

buildin for a t67.

Put a headgasket, and some headstuds on it and call it a day

I beat the piss out of mine for the last two years making over 550-600rwhp.....and for several months last year making 650-700rwhp

Make sure its got a good tune, the right plugs, and quality fuel.......its hard to break these things

[pumpkin]

the oil pump drive on the 32 crank is shorter and the pump can end up with catastrophic failure. You can have it sleeved

12200-05U01 - used in RB26DETT's in the R32 from 89/08 - 93/0212200-05U02 - used in RB26DETT's in the R32 from 93/02 on andalso used in the R3312200-05U03 - used in RB26DETT's in the R34

It also looks like the xx01 and xx02 cranks are superceded by the xx03 crank as well.

So from this I think we can assume that if you have a GT-R that was built before 93/02 you need to check the oil pump drive and make sure to upgrade it when you have the motor apart.

[Nesquick]

my rb26 is a R33. not sure what year tho....

[Booztd 3]

my rb26 is a R33. not sure what year tho....

If you arent doing any hard tracking with the car where it will see sustained high RPM's I see no reason to dig into fixing the oil pump and snout issue.....

And IF you are planning on doing so, then you're going to want to invest in more items such as oil cooler, oil pan baffles, head drain, head restrictor, etc....

If this is just a street car thats going to see alot of spirited driving (street/strip) just do the normal maintenence (new idlers, timing belt, tensioner, seals, compression test, etc) and what I said earlier (headgasket and studs) and you'll be fine

[mattblancarte]

+1

I agree with Booztd 3. I do, however, have to say that I've heard that you can have issues with the stock pistons if you have more than 500hp. Booztd is proof of not having an issue (yet?) with that. I'll let him have the last word.

I only get into the "oil cooler needed" range after 2-3 laps at Phoenix International, so that is for sure the truth. The oiling issues are really for high-revving (7k plus) cars that plan on extreme lateral acceleration while holding those high revs. Nissan figured this out while racing with the motor.

I put a 3qt accusump on my car that automatically feeds oil into the system if I drop below 40 psi. I figure that will be just fine for HPDE and Time Trials driving. If I were to be running for more than 30 mins without giving the motor a break, I would go the next step and worry about keeping the oil around the pickup.

[Booztd 3]

+1

I agree with Booztd 3. I do, however, have to say that I've heard that you can have issues with the stock pistons if you have more than 500hp. Booztd is proof of not having an issue (yet?) with that. I'll let him have the last word.

You are correct, short of AEM's sucking, and a wiring issue I had, the engine setup itself, has had 0 issues its 2 years of existence....

These motors will LAST, if you take care of them. I regularly changed oil, plugs, and monitored other vitals. The car was tuned on E85 and had a relatively 'safe' tune on it. Not one point last year on the cars 7-8k miles was it making under 500rwhp......and in fact most of last year I was making over 600-650rwhp (I was trapping 135-136 at the drag strip in a 3600lb car)

I say, take the money you save not 'building' the motor, and put it into a good EMS and have it installed and tuned by a reputable shop. I CANNOT stress the extreme amount of value having a good tune on a car is worth........lots of my friends around here believe in 'street' tuning and frankly I think they're ignorant for doing so......I will use the street to iron out small issues like when the temp changes (on a map setup it changes more than you'd think) but for the most part tuning on a dyno in a controlled environment is where its at....

[Nesquick]

im not going to be doin much tracking with this car, maybe once or twice a summer.

in summer its gunna be my dd, if i see a race, ill race, otherwise just give a bit of juice when i see a hot girl or sumthing lol

my trust oil cooler is still in good condish with steel braided lines.

so the oil shall stay cool.

my AEM EMS is on the way right now, and i can get on a dyno whenever i want seeing as my cousin owns a performance shop, im also getting him to tune it.

also, are you still running your MAF? if not, how did you convert it to MAP? (Boozted 3)

[pumpkin]

im not going to be doin much tracking with this car, maybe once or twice a summer.

also, are you still running your MAF? if not, how did you convert it to MAP? (Boozted 3)

i think he may be using pfc d jetro to run on map. the pfc l jetro runs maf im honestly not a huge fan of aem, i have no idea if they have the option to run map or not and i agree with booztd getting your car on a dyno, getting a good tune and regular maintenance

[Booztd 3]

im not going to be doin much tracking with this car, maybe once or twice a summer.

in summer its gunna be my dd, if i see a race, ill race, otherwise just give a bit of juice when i see a hot girl or sumthing lol

my trust oil cooler is still in good condish with steel braided lines.

so the oil shall stay cool.

my AEM EMS is on the way right now, and i can get on a dyno whenever i want seeing as my cousin owns a performance shop, im also getting him to tune it.

also, are you still running your MAF? if not, how did you convert it to MAP? (Boozted 3)

screw a D-jetro..lol

I run the AEM EMS 1621 box....

Converting to MAP is easy.....you take the #1 MAF sensor signal wire and that should go to the green wire on the MAP sensor (Map sensor has 3 wires: 5V+, Sensor Ground, and Signal wire) There are a ****load of sensor ground wires on the RB sensor to tap into, and you can just use the 5V power wire from the MAF sensor as well.

If you search my previous posts there was a guy that started a thread about wiring up an AEM map sensor and I did a write-up with pinouts I believe....

AEM reliability sucks *** but its user interface is bar-none......easy to use, and they usually have really good phone support....alot of the other EMS's its hard to get someone on the phone

[mattblancarte]

I'm running Apex'i Power FC. My tune is awesome. ^_^ Very reliable.

My HKS EVC VI, however... Huge pain in the *** to figure out. I can't find ANYTHING on it. Even two really awesome tuners have had trouble figuring it out. It's current setting is nice because it gradually builds boost, starting at about 9psi at 3000rpm, building to 15psi at about 6500rpm. I'm running stock r34 turbos.

I wanted it to be set to full boost as soon as possible, but we couldn't figure out how to make it come in full at low rpm. If we set the initial boost too high, it would try to gradually build to dangerous levels.

I guess the gradual build at lower boost is just fine for HPDE.

[Booztd 3]

I'm running Apex'i Power FC. My tune is awesome. ^_^ Very reliable.

My HKS EVC VI, however... Huge pain in the *** to figure out. I can't find ANYTHING on it. Even two really awesome tuners have had trouble figuring it out. It's current setting is nice because it gradually builds boost, starting at about 9psi at 3000rpm, building to 15psi at about 6500rpm. I'm running stock r34 turbos.

I wanted it to be set to full boost as soon as possible, but we couldn't figure out how to make it come in full at low rpm. If we set the initial boost too high, it would try to gradually build to dangerous levels.

I guess the gradual build at lower boost is just fine for HPDE.

I have found the best EBC's are the most simplistic ones....

I always run Profec B or Profec S controllers (profec B spec II sucks ***)

[Nesquick]

yea currently im running a power fc, but got no controller for it

all of my buddies are running AEM.

MR2 with 480whp....AEMPlymouth lazer with 400whp...AEMTalon with 380whp.....AEMMKIII with 350whp....AEM

all love it and never had a problem with it.

should i stick with my pfc? opinions???

thanks guys

[Booztd 3]

yea currently im running a power fc, but got no controller for it

all of my buddies are running AEM.

MR2 with 480whp....AEMPlymouth lazer with 400whp...AEMTalon with 380whp.....AEMMKIII with 350whp....AEM

all love it and never had a problem with it.

should i stick with my pfc? opinions???

thanks guys

If you already have an AEM EMS on the way then theres no reason to ask.......

[l0nestar]

Andy,Who did your tuning? Sound Performance in Chicago, correct?

[Darius]

I agree with Booztd 3. I do, however, have to say that I've heard that you can have issues with the stock pistons if you have more than 500hp.

Not the case for the RB26. You might be confusing that 500hp "limit" with the RB25. The RB26 has a much thicker top ring and lower ring land so it's able to handle more stress than the RB25's. Plus the RB26 pistons have internal oil cooling channels. Please refer to my thread about RB25/26 piston comparison or something like that. There should be pics too.

As a result, the RB26 pistons hold up to higher hp than 500. Of course, tuning makes all the difference in longevity at this power level.

[Booztd 3]

Andy,Who did your tuning? Sound Performance in Chicago, correct?

I had SP do the original E85 tune on the 60mm turbo. I did the tune on the 66mm turbo afterwards....

Up until that I had done all my own dyno tuning for ~5 years on that bish....

[mattblancarte]

Not the case for the RB26. You might be confusing that 500hp "limit" with the RB25.

Ah, indeed.