RB26DETT info

[Gold Digger]

So, my R arrives this week, and I am curious to know if there are any major issues with the R33 RB26? Iknow the crank collar issue on the R32's were taken care of, but , is there anything else I need to be aware of?

Also, I have heard conflicting stories on this, but did the 26 use ceramic wheels?

Not going to be doing any major tuning right away. Gonna do regular maintenence for starters and get underneath the car and learn the AWD system as best I can (I know how it's set up, just want to get a first hand view of it.

I'll get some pics of the R and the engine when I get some time this weekend.

Thanks, guys.

[mattblancarte]

Google is going to be your very best friend, very soon.

Yep, the r33 turbos have steel ball bearings and ceremic wheels. Don't boost above 1 bar unless you want some dead turbos. I have my HKS EVC VI set to gradually gain boost. It starts at 7 psi around 3500rpm and climbs to 14.8psi ( a tad above 1 bar) at about 6000rpm.

The other answer is... it totally depends on what you're going to be doing with the car she's dropping into.

If this is going to be street car that rarely revs out... no worries at all just drive it around. Oh ya... don't bounce off of the rev limiter unless you upgrade the oil pump to greddy or tomei.

If you want to do more... make sure you upgrade the cooling system for both coolant and oil. You'll also want to look into the innate oiling problems of the RB26. There are a few, unfortunately.

Other than the oiling and cooling system... I don't think there are any glaring issues with the motor.

[Gold Digger]

The other answer is... it totally depends on what you're going to be doing with the car she's dropping into.

The engine isn't being dropped into anything...it's staying right inside the car it's in right now...R33 GT-R.

As for the other info, thanks a bunch. I'll be sure to keep my eyes and ears open for other info that may float my way as well.

Again, much appreciated.

[Carl H]

if its a late r33 then the crank issue has been fixed.

[mattblancarte]

The engine isn't being dropped into anything...it's staying right inside the car it's in right now...R33 GT-R.

As for the other info, thanks a bunch. I'll be sure to keep my eyes and ears open for other info that may float my way as well.

Again, much appreciated.

Haha my reading comprehension and situational awareness goes to crap late at night.

You're going to have a gt-r...

Basically the rb26 has big trouble keeping oil down in the pan when you run a lot of lateral or longitudinal g force coupled with more boost. That and the stock and N1 pumps have an awesome record of failing if you rev high or bounce the limiter. I have my fuel cutoff set to 7500 rpm...

If you get into the 11 second quarters or road race, get a tomei baffle plate at the very minimum. I would consider ripping it open and putting oil gallery restrictors, too.

I piped in an accusump to my setup because I'm pretty paranoid about the pump failing.

This page has a good writeup: http://hubpages.com/hub/nissan_rb26

Very happy to help. I'm not an expert, but I've done a TON of research into what makes the motor reliable in race conditions.

[raremotive]

Sup Neal,

I am assuming you are going to try to keep it mostly stock for now.

The cooling system is something to watch for.. The real pita for the long block is trapped air which create hot spots. If you spend the time to let air out the system and there are systems in the market in hopes to remove air out while running.

Another thing is try not to push the rev limit. The crank is long and semi-counter, so once you get up in high rpms it will vibrate like crazy. This also a source contributing to destroying the oil pump. You should have the the enlarged crank snout since late R32 started receiving them.

Make sure your gauges are reading correct, oil pressure, temp, and coolant temperatures.

Your turbo's turbines are ceramic, and they will hold up to 14 psi before busting.
Modified by Rare_f8 at 12:41 PM 10/21/2008

[AZhitman]

Does anyone make a crank scraper for that motor?

Seems to me a windage tray, scraper, and baffle plate would be MORE than sufficient to prevent oil starvation.

[l0nestar]

That and the stock and N1 pumps have an awesome record of failing if you rev high or bounce the limiter. I have my fuel cutoff set to 7500 rpm...

That concerns me.

[Coolwhip]

there have been attempts of an crank scraper.

Other built formats were an all in one deal that added billet main caps all in one girdle with scraper and 4 bolt mains.

Trick stuff, big money.

[mattblancarte]

I looked into an rb25 race pan... 1145 AUD. Still contemplating if I need it.

http://www.etperformance.com.a...0.htm

[raremotive]

Does anyone make a crank scraper for that motor?

Seems to me a windage tray, scraper, and baffle plate would be MORE than sufficient to prevent oil starvation.

Interesting. However the pan is deep enough that not even a scraper would prevent the oil from sloping to one side resulting exposing the pick-up to air.

I have seen custom designs to keep the pickup submerged.

http://forums.hybridz.org/atta...01815

But then even tomei offers a bolt on trap door.

http://www.300zx.com.au/pricel...e.jpg

[Coolwhip]

i can see this thread driving into the whole Oil problem/solution debate thing again... :P

a swinging oil pick up is where it's at, for wet sump

[raremotive]

i can see this thread driving into the whole Oil problem/solution debate thing again... :P

a swinging oil pick up is where it's at, for wet sump

haha, indeed...

Trying to be straight with Hitman's proposal, actually had me think about it and pull my oil pan out of the closet to imagine it.

[AZhitman]

I can't imagine it's that difficult, but what do I know.

I have a scraper and windage tray on my KA-T, and it's a beautiful design. Zero-tolerance against the crank and definitely prevents any oil starvation issues.

Am I being overly simplistic in thinking that if simple lateral G's expose the pickup to air, there's not enough oil in the pan?

Dual pickups on the outboard edges of the pan, with a Y-connector perhaps?

[gawdzilla]

I can't imagine it's that difficult, but what do I know.

I have a scraper and windage tray on my KA-T, and it's a beautiful design. Zero-tolerance against the crank and definitely prevents any oil starvation issues.

Am I being overly simplistic in thinking that if simple lateral G's expose the pickup to air, there's not enough oil in the pan?

Dual pickups on the outboard edges of the pan, with a Y-connector perhaps?

if you do that you'd probably still have issues if one become uncovered. it's easier to suck air than oil. either way these oiling issues depend completely on your driving style and what the car is used for. keep in mind the only issue nissan addressed was the oil pump drive. take what you read online with a grain of salt (including what i say of course). wouldn't you think the r32-34 gtrs did a fair amount of track duty in their primes and during testing?

if the car is on full slicks, over 1.5 Gs lateral force, tracked redline to redline (or higher) all the time, heavily modded, then yes. i'd do the oiling mods. if your car does an occassional hpde or spirited street drive i would not worry about it. keep your oil topped off on or slightly above the H mark, check it often, and save yourself the money.

[Booztd 3]

That and the stock and N1 pumps have an awesome record of failing if you rev high or bounce the limiter. I have my fuel cutoff set to 7500 rpm...

Maybe I'm lucky, but I have an R32 engine that has seen 9400rpms before...and frequently sees 8200-8300 and is making over 540rwhp....it has been running this way for 2 years now....i have made probably over 85 drag strip passes and everytime I do a burnout I peg the limiter serveral times at 8500....

I have an RB25 modified pan using the rb25 built in pan baffles and no 26 baffles

[arauz]

^What oil pump are u using?

[Booztd 3]

^What oil pump are u using?

I have a completely stock R32 oiling system

[mattblancarte]

Maybe I'm lucky, but I have an R32 engine that has seen 9400rpms before...and frequently sees 8200-8300 and is making over 540rwhp....it has been running this way for 2 years now....i have made probably over 85 drag strip passes and everytime I do a burnout I peg the limiter serveral times at 8500....

I have an RB25 modified pan using the rb25 built in pan baffles and no 26 baffles

Haha daym you're a madman!

Ya it's certainly not something that happens to everyone. The problem is that is happens to enough people (initially happened to race teams like Tomei) that if you don't take the proper precaution, you may end up with a rebuild on your hands.

To each his own when it comes to taking risks.

[raremotive]

Maybe I'm lucky, but I have an R32 engine that has seen 9400rpms before...and frequently sees 8200-8300 and is making over 540rwhp....it has been running this way for 2 years now....i have made probably over 85 drag strip passes and everytime I do a burnout I peg the limiter serveral times at 8500....

I have an RB25 modified pan using the rb25 built in pan baffles and no 26 baffles

Interesting enough that the pan is a rear sump design, which also get's a direct dump of oil from the head. The rear of the pan is also shaped like a V which holds the oil back better from acceration Gs.. opposed to it being flat and more square.



Once inspecting the rb26 pan.. you have a support dip that has tiny holes drilled in. The returning oil is slowed down and most likely has to overflow the dip to get into the wet sump of the pan.. so more oil is required in the system to just over come that obstacle... And second the rear portion of this wet sump is flat and square, therefore more oil will flow that way as acceleration occurs.

so really.. it's not the same system anymore.
Modified by Rare_f8 at 3:41 PM 10/22/2008

[Kalypso]

insightful thread to a non RB owner.

thanks for the artcile MR. mattblancarte