sr20tom wrote:they look the same. the car is a gts with an rb26 and at 25 trans
Yes I know they are the same. When I received the motor, it had those rb25 mounts on them. Maybe r33 rb26's came with rb25 style mounts ? I duno..sr20tom wrote:they look the same. the car is a gts with an rb26 and at 25 trans
yes feed and return. I don't exactly remember which is which, but it really doesn't matter anyways. Just run one water line from the water neck to one side of the turbo, and the other water line on the back of the motor to the other side of the turbo.sr20tom wrote:just what i was looking for. Now when you say inlet/outlet does that mean its a feed or a return. Where do i get the water feed from and where is the water return? What size fittings are they and what size line should we use?Thank you for all the help.
The only real difference between Rb25 and Rb26 mounts are that Rb26 mounts are designed to allow clearance for the front turbo.noodl35 wrote:sorry to be offtopic but aren't those rb25det mounts? My r33 rb26dett came with those mounts and I was told those were rb25 mounts. So I sold those and got the supposedly "rb26" mounts. Look at pics below. Can you please verify?
Here are the "rb25" mounts that people were telling me it should not be there
here are the "rb26" mounts I bought to replace.
This r33 rb26 is going into my s14 with Mckinney mounts. Should I be fine?
Here is another question. Lets say i wanted to block the second (rear) oil return, does anyone know what size that 2 bolt flange is or should i just bold it back up and just cap it somehow for now?Bluefire wrote:2 is your oil fead1 & 3 are your oil returns. Pick one and cap the other.4 is one of your water inlet/outlet. The other water inlet/outlet comes from the upper water neck in front of the motor. 5 is vac/boost. cap or use for your wastegate6 is probably another vac/boost, but it shouldn't be way down there. I'm guessing the line is bent and should actually be up by 4&5.
-Bluefire
it's super easy to make one. just take off the original 2 bolt piece and use a marker to trace the outline on a small piece of metal. cut it out, drill 2 holes in it and you have your blockoff plate. find some shorter bolts and bolt it on. use a bit of rtv around the outside so it seals against the block.sr20tom wrote:Here is another question. Lets say i wanted to block the second (rear) oil return, does anyone know what size that 2 bolt flange is or should i just bold it back up and just cap it somehow for now?
ok on your link now how did you do the water plumbing? Did you utilize the freeze plug water source or did you use the the #4 in my diagram to the turbo and then the turbo to the thermostat neck?gawdzilla wrote:this should help you out for coolant. i don't remember what 4 and 5 are, but i don't believe either of them are vacuum. either way, you should be able to trace it and figure it outhttp://forums.nicoclub.com/showthread.php?t=169158wtf this forum won't let me link to freshalloy and keeps changing my url. change the "nicoclub" to "freshalloy"
the original diagram is missing one of the coolant sources from the block. it's under the cylinder 6 freeze plug and can be seen in the 2nd motor pic posted in this thread
Modified by gawdzilla at 2:11 PM 12/17/2009
How exactly do you loop that #4 line onto itself? I plan on taking the intake manifold off and removing the metal lines running behind the motor, but how do you loop that line? Do you take plug the hole that its coming from or just run that line ito somewhere else?gawdzilla wrote:You'll see later in the thread someone recommends a way to do it, so i did it that way. i looped the #4 line back on itself near the source somewhere on the intake side so its not being used.
then i used the thermostat neck and the freeze plug water source as my 2 connections to the CHRA