Hey, I am completley new to this forum. Id like to start off by saying I just finished my RB26dett 240z, it is running and on the road. The motor is completley stock, and uses the stock ecu with stock MAFs.The issues are as follows:when the motor is warming up, the car screams. As soon as it warms up and gets hot, I get a very bad misfire. I have cleaned my MAFS and checked for any air leaks. I belive it may be a ignition problem. Does anyone know where to start?
Another problem (may be related) as soon as my spal fan kicks in, the idle breaks up and the car runs very rough. Now I am thinking when the fan kicks in, this is when my ignition problem occurs. Can anyone tell me why my electric fan is causing my idle to break up?any rb26 alternator wiring gurus out there? I have it wired up good but my voltage sensing wire isnt hooked up directley to the batterey and my fan is.
I was also screwing around with the knob on the ecu, is there a certain position for this knob to sit for the motor to run right?
Rb26dett 240z, drivability issues, just insured and on the road. help
welcome to the forums.
your coil packs might be a little baked with age. try removing the center cover and running without it. take out the coil packs and inspect them. there is a DIY thread about inspecting/refreshing the coil packs that you should search for. I think they use some flexane or something to re-coat/insulate them. they tend to wear down their insulation and start grounding out to the head.
E-fans draw a lot of amps. if you can, maybe try going back to the mechanical fan since the Z bodies are a lot roomier than the S bodies. If not, you can also do the quest alternator upgrade (125 amp). search for it on this forum and you'll find writeups about it too. the 26 has a higher rated alternator compared to the other RBs (i think 90 amp iirc), but it may not be wired right, or might be on its way out.
your coil packs might be a little baked with age. try removing the center cover and running without it. take out the coil packs and inspect them. there is a DIY thread about inspecting/refreshing the coil packs that you should search for. I think they use some flexane or something to re-coat/insulate them. they tend to wear down their insulation and start grounding out to the head.
E-fans draw a lot of amps. if you can, maybe try going back to the mechanical fan since the Z bodies are a lot roomier than the S bodies. If not, you can also do the quest alternator upgrade (125 amp). search for it on this forum and you'll find writeups about it too. the 26 has a higher rated alternator compared to the other RBs (i think 90 amp iirc), but it may not be wired right, or might be on its way out.
How did you power your ecu and ignition system? If you are pulling power through the original z harness it might be causing the problems you are describing. Mine would dip the idle when the signals came on and headlights came on untill I ran a relayed switchboard and powered the important stuff off the battery. Car started idling like a champ and running way smoother, also it was not effected by other electrical draws.
Re: (virus77)
I powered the ecu through the original Z ignition harness.
Just a quick update: no more misfire or bog, fuel filter was blocked. Runs good now, with the exception of the idle. Idles fine when cold, but poorly when warm. The cooling fan kicking in aggravates the idle even more. O2 sensors, crud in the injectors, anything sound like it could cause this?The charging voltage is 14.1 at idle. Seems a little low, but reasonable.
Modified by 240zdan at 10:17 PM 6/12/2009
Just a quick update: no more misfire or bog, fuel filter was blocked. Runs good now, with the exception of the idle. Idles fine when cold, but poorly when warm. The cooling fan kicking in aggravates the idle even more. O2 sensors, crud in the injectors, anything sound like it could cause this?The charging voltage is 14.1 at idle. Seems a little low, but reasonable.
Modified by 240zdan at 10:17 PM 6/12/2009
Re: (240zdan)
virus77, can you tell me what you powered off the relayed switchboard? any pics of ur setup?
Re: (240zdan)
anyone have any ideas?I am thinking one of two things:something to do with closed loop, so a sensor issueOr somethign to do with heat, ignition/electrical issue.
I gave the ecu relays a nice 12v signal through a 30 amp switch. Ran the fuel pump and fans off relays and I even ran the RB ignition system off a relay (i converted to buick coilpack but you can power the RB coils like this too). I powered all the relays from a nice 12v from the battery and switched the relays on with some 15amp switches.... I could have activated the relays with some kind of switched ignition source but I like switches lol.
How are your fans wired? through a relay or???
How are your fans wired? through a relay or???
Re: (virus77)
The fan is powered by a flexalite adjustable controller.I am 99% sure I have found the problem.The fan kicks in and blows hot air into the MAFs. I havent made the intakes yet. The fan blows hot turbulent air directley into it and messes up the idle. I copnfirmed this by shielding the mafs with my hands when the fan kicks on, iidle problem dissappears. This can also explain why I get pops and hesitation, as well as loss of power on the highway. I am not driving the car anymore until I get the intakes made up. I didnt realize MAFS were picky, having worked only with MAPS. hopefully i didnt run the motor lean, but i think it woudl cause it to run rich, as its gotten terrible milage for a 2.6 and there is alot of soot on the tailpipe.
Either way, not good.
I know as a rule of thumb there shoudl be at least 6" of piping between them, but Im wondering know what type of filter to use. An airbox woudl be ideal but I have very limited space to work with. Will a cone filter with metal shield to cover the filter from engine bay air be good?
Modified by 240zdan at 2:23 AM 6/17/2009
Either way, not good.
I know as a rule of thumb there shoudl be at least 6" of piping between them, but Im wondering know what type of filter to use. An airbox woudl be ideal but I have very limited space to work with. Will a cone filter with metal shield to cover the filter from engine bay air be good?
Modified by 240zdan at 2:23 AM 6/17/2009
Re: (WhatsADSM)
it was the mafs. I am working on an intake solution. Its impossible to get 10" of piping between the turbo and mafs. Once I get it sorted its off to the dyno.