RB26 - Which Oil Pump already!?

[Mr.Red]

Hello All,

Time and time again i read on every forum possible but it just goes back and forth. Everything is contradictory. I already understand that no oil pump is invincible... Reading all these forums makes me scared to run any pump besides the tomei. Every one has a different set up with certain circumstances making it hard to compare to stock set-ups on a normal DD.

The Question
Sooo I just want to know if it is okay to run the stock oil pump on a stock set-up, driving daily and with some "fun runs" on the high way (0-60mph) seeing high revs? And is it worth the $300 to rebuild the stock oil pump with the remax upgrade? Also are tomei restrictors necessary on a stock set-up like this?

My circumstances- I have the engine on an engine stand so everything is easily accessible and the head is already off.

For the s13 rb26 swap
To my understanding the rb26 oil pan cannot be given a water tight weld because the oil has soaked into the metal of the oil pan. So what are the options for the oil pan to fit into the s-chassis?
P.S i have read everything but found nothing but arguments, and when i find a good post i usually find another that say the total opposite.

Thanks for all answers!
Mr.Red

[themadscientist]

For the pump, there are two important considerations, the pump and the crank. For a warmed up engine that doesn't spend it's life balls to the wall, a new stock pump will be fine. There are two aspects concerning the pump, the volume and the gears. The go-fast pumps increase oil volume and the gears are not sintered like the stock pump. For 400hp and under DD, the Tomei is overkill IMO.

For the crank, the R32 crank's drive eccentric was too thin and didn't have enough contact with the pump. It would twist off the pump gear and destroy it. Picture a wrench half off a bolt being pulled really hard till it rounds off the bolt head, like that. In your description you mention R33 engine so you should have the fatter drive land. I'm not sure why the early 26 was like that. The CA18 of the same vintage had the same design and the crank's drive eccentric was fat as hell.

I do love bringing up the RB's oil pump problem in the RB26 vs 2JZ pissing matches.

As far as the pan. Certainly, a cast pan is stiffer, but realistically, the RB25 or RB20 pan should work with a modified pickup and you won't have the diff problem.

[Mr.Red]

Hi themadscientist,

Thank you for your fast reply. You make really good points and by the way that is actually the reason why i had bought the r33 instead of the r32. So you wouldnt say that the N1 pump is at all good?? And as for the oil pan i have heard that there are a few bolt holes on the rb25 pan that are missing that the rb26 pan has.

Thanks!

[themadscientist]

Missing holes? Hand me a drill! I hear that the N1 pump is just a stock pump relabeled. Even so, it would be fine for the use you describe.

[Mr.Red]

Missing holes? Hand me a drill! I hear that the N1 pump is just a stock pump relabeled. Even so, it would be fine for the use you describe.

Thanks for the reassurance! Haha you have no idea how much that helps!

[themadscientist]

Keep the revs out of the red on the tach and you will be fine. It's the RPMs that really do the damage. At the speeds that will pop the pump you are hurting other parts of the stock engine too.