RB26 Down!!!

[Nesquick]

ok...

so i was going for a rip in my silvia and was boosting pretty hard to show what my car could do to my passenger.

so after i finish 3rd, i slow it down. all of a sudden, the car starts filling with a blue smoke, and there is a cloud of blue smoke behind the car.

i pull over to check under the hood and it stalls... i try to turn in back on, but it wont start without giving it some gas. and to keep it running, i have to keep giving it gas. after about 10 mins of giving it a bit of gas, it would stay running, but would have a VERY rough idle. and after giving it a bit of gas, there is air coming out of my filters.

so i got home, took off my turbos to see if i broke them, they appear to be alright, but there was oil on the bottom of both of the air inlets. oil seal???

after talking with some friends, they said it could be my rings as well. true?

any ideas of what i broke?
Modified by Nesquick at 2:18 PM 5/31/2009

[Shocker]

Sounds like a ring/piston sealing issue. Most likely cracked a ringland, or something along those lines. Stop driving the car and do a leakdown and compression test. Its not idling most likely due to a loss of compression which results in a very rich issue thus stalling occurs.

Sorry to hear this. Mods to the car?

[Nesquick]

stock r33 rb26, just the bolt on stuff like tomei cam gears and trust intakes, etc.

tomorrow im going to build a leak down tester and test it.

but for a compression test, i dont wanna run the engine to warm it up incase other stuff will break.

[Shocker]

stock r33 rb26, just the bolt on stuff like tomei cam gears and trust intakes, etc.

tomorrow im going to build a leak down tester and test it.

but for a compression test, i dont wanna run the engine to warm it up incase other stuff will break.

Cold compression test will give you an idea, if you have a gauge reading below 90-80 psi I'd be worried about that cylinder. If they are all pretty close then thats a good sign. However I feel like there is some internal damage...

You can also pull all the plugs and take a look in the cylinders with a flash light, they should be repetitively dry of any type of oil.

Check to make sure your cam gears are in the proper position as well.

[Nesquick]

yea i will do that when i wake up tmrw. im also going to fab together a leak down tester (found instructions on the net).

i shall update when im done tmrw morning. if it is the rings and/or pistons, i got a lil sumthin to buy to replace

[maryjane]

broken ring land or cracked ring

[Nesquick]

well just finished a comp test..... im scared.

____________Back Of Engine

507575140115132

Front Of Engine.

test was done on cold engine with oil in the pistons.

also, on the cylinder with the 50psi comp. this is my spark plug. definately wasnt like this when i did my last comp test

[Largekid]

looks like a rebuild time.

[Nesquick]

im excited for a rebuild

weisco pistons and eagle rods with ARP hardware

hopefully ill be going in 2 months.

still want to do a leaker test tho... my buddy is being an a** and wants me to pay him to borrow it

[mattblancarte]

Wowza... sorry that she went to crap on you.

I'm very interested to see pics of your tear-down.

[gawdzilla]

im excited for a rebuild

weisco pistons and eagle rods with ARP hardware

hopefully ill be going in 2 months.

still want to do a leaker test tho... my buddy is being an a** and wants me to pay him to borrow it

no point in doing a leakdown test at this point. motor is definitely toast . start tearing down and take more pics of carnage.

[Shocker]

Please do take pictures of your pistons, I'm curious to see what the damage looks like.

That looks like a pre-det issue to me if that electrode has been burnt off. Hard to tell from the pics.

[WhatsADSM]

Yea you can o the leakdown, but as mentioned before the info isn't that useful since it is pretty much toast.

Looks like det to me.

Just make sure once you build it again you fix the issue you had in the first place. Last thing you want to do is go through 2 rebuilds!

[Nesquick]

lol yea, 2 rebuilds FTL!!!

im just settin myself up for tmrw when i start to break her down.

i got a FSM, but its kinda F&%^ed up.

it says to remove in order showed..... first off, there is no "1", 2x "4", no "5", 2x "8". WTF is that apparently i cant even start lol.



could someone shed some light on this?

if anyone has a walkthru of how to do said rebuild, would help TONS.

oh and im accepting all donations to get back on the road

[Shocker]

You need a hand removing your rocker covers?...

[GTRs13]

There's that infamous lean condition in the #5 and #6 cylinders.

This is your 2nd rebuild?

[Carl H]

^ possibly so... the plug looked lean to me even tho half of the electrode is missing.what fuel pump are you running, and if you say stock silvia pump then you deserve what happened.

also if you're having a hard time following the fsm instructions on how to tear down the engine it would be wise to let a proper machine shop do the rebuild for you including tear down.

[Darius]

bah tear down is easy. Everything is either screwed or getting replaced or machined anyways. In general with heads, manifolds, rocker covers and other long pieces of metal. Think of them like a table cloth. When laying it down you want to start from the center and spread it out equally in both directions. Same goes for torquing. Start at the center and work your way side to side and away from the center. Removal is the opposite.

Definitely a lean condition on #6. Don't feel bad, you're not the only one that has done this. Many an RB has met its demise this same way.

[Nesquick]

You need a hand removing your rocker covers?...

no this aint my 2nd rebuild. just saying if i had to do it again would suck

[sepulchralx]

That sucks... I wouldn't touch the motor... I'd have professionals deal with it.... Will you sell me your solid lifters?

[Nesquick]

some more things were takin off....

fuel railvalve coverthrottle ASSYcam gear cover

workin on the intake manifold now, but its impossible to get at the bottom nuts.

i guess ill be pulling the motor out tonite after my buddy is done work so i can borrow is engine hoist.

pics will come after engine is out

keep finders crossed for me

[Shocker]

some more things were takin off....

fuel railvalve coverthrottle ASSYcam gear cover

workin on the intake manifold now, but its impossible to get at the bottom nuts.

i guess ill be pulling the motor out tonite after my buddy is done work so i can borrow is engine hoist.

pics will come after engine is out

keep finders crossed for me

Dude just pull the cam gear cover/cam covers. Removing the timing belt, then unbolt the head bolts, and remove the 3 small screws from the head/block. Then pull the ENTIRE assembly. Turbos, manifolds all that s*** cam come up at once.

Or just pull the whole engine, you can leave all that stuff on.

[Nesquick]

im pulling it for other reasons as well, im going to be painting the engine bay, painting the block, cleaning up messiness and all that jazz.

i was going to leave it in, but i want to do all that other stuff, might as well do it now instead of later.

[Nesquick]

alright, so i guess ill turn this thread into my build thread as well.

goal #1 = build bottom endgoal #2= build head.

so im building the bottom end, iv already decided to bore the block 40 over.gettin wiesco pistons, eagle rods, ARP hardware.

only thing im not sure of is bearings....was looking at a set of cosworth main + rod bearings for $225. good deal?

if not, anyone know of a good aftermarket brand i should get?

[GTRs13]

I really like ACL bearings. They have a calico coating as well.

Only 150 for the rods and mains.

I'm sure that after this failure, you don't want to do it twice. But don't let OEM scare you.

You have to take into consideration that these engines are 20 years old on the high side, so stuff tends to be worn out to begin with.

And why .040" over? That's a pretty big over bore, making the walls that much thinner.

Don't forget to get the block Torque-plate honed, and the mains line-honed *WITH* the ARP's installed.

This will ensure everything is square when re-assembling

I've built quite a few engines in my day (Wow, I sound old) and I would say:

-Weisco/Eagle/ARP -ACL bearings-Crank collar/oil/water pumps-Triple check all your clearances

And you will have a solid, solid engine.

Good luck!