Rb25neo running issues...

[TimTurboZ]

I'm still having issues. I have no boost leaks and it will go to 10:1 afr with1/3- half throttle. It spools up waits and then will pull. All my injectors are working and its not missing. My ngk copper plugs are at .040 Gap.
My tps is .45 at idle I imagine the tps is functional. I never quite full throttle the car because or it being hesitant and running so rich. I have witnessed it go from rich to lean while trying to accelerate more in higher boost like before.
Last I checked the MAF voltage was normal at idle after I swapped another N62 in.
Sorry if my description isn't worded well enough or in depth.

I'm also having an issue where a coilpack stops working I replaced them all and tonight I had it occur again. They are 100% wired correctly and are getting power. Perhaps they are getting too hot? I had to swap coilpacks on cyl1 and then cyl3 started missing immediately so I swapped in another coilpack and it was ok, I'll have to try them on another cylinder to test if they are dead but is there anything I can check? My wiring isn't exposed or grounded anywhere I checked.

Any ideas appreciated

Tim

[TimTurboZ]

Ls2 truck coils to be specific. I can screen shot my dwell setting in nistune for reference if wanted

[Darius]

I'm still having issues. I have no boost leaks and it will go to 10:1 afr with1/3- half throttle. It spools up waits and then will pull. All my injectors are working and its not missing. My ngk copper plugs are at .040 Gap.
My tps is .45 at idle I imagine the tps is functional. I never quite full throttle the car because or it being hesitant and running so rich. I have witnessed it go from rich to lean while trying to accelerate more in higher boost like before.
Last I checked the MAF voltage was normal at idle after I swapped another N62 in.
Sorry if my description isn't worded well enough or in depth.

I'm also having an issue where a coilpack stops working I replaced them all and tonight I had it occur again. They are 100% wired correctly and are getting power. Perhaps they are getting too hot? I had to swap coilpacks on cyl1 and then cyl3 started missing immediately so I swapped in another coilpack and it was ok, I'll have to try them on another cylinder to test if they are dead but is there anything I can check? My wiring isn't exposed or grounded anywhere I checked.

Any ideas appreciated

Tim

If the tune is so rich that it is causing a misfire, that misfire will show up on the wideband as a lean condition because of all the air and fuel from that cylinder being dumped into the exhaust unburnt. Try leaning out the tune, check spark plug gap, and verify spark on each individual cylinder while the car is running. You should be able to pull the plug wire off of the coil and see sparks arc-ing across to the terminal.

Are you able to adjust the coil dwell settings in your ECU?

[TimTurboZ]

I have nistune so yes on the dwell adjustment, I have the fuel Map set to reach 10.8~11.2 it should never even see 10:1.

Going to try and log some runs and email them to Matt at Nistune he's been very helpful.
I have verified spark in all cylinders and that the injectors are working.

I can try to set my fuel map leaner but it seems odd it would be so far off.

It's simple, choose n62 Maf it adjusts the tune, I say it's 370cc stock and 570cc now and it make the adjustments that to where I mess with the k constant or the injector latency a bit for the afrs. My tuner set the dwell settings

[TimTurboZ]

I'm more than likely going to start with a oem tune again make the necessary changes and see how lean it will run on a oem fuel map. I just don't always have time before work to try and street tune the car.

[RRRRB]

.040 gap is huge.. I run like .025 or so

[TimTurboZ]

Made a new tune two changes were made from my old tune for the better. Also the fuel maps which I did play with from OEM it drove better than before. It was not going directly to 10:1 stays around 11.2 where I wanted it. I saw my boost gauge hit 1.5bar which is its limit so I turned down my MBC but then I was at 0.9bar it went to 10:1 then it spiked to 1.5. Believe last run was 1.1bar and spiked to 1.5. would this more than likely be my MBC or possibly the wastegate (which is new but from ~2001) spark plugs I will replace again I suppose, since my plugs have less than 500 miles but always have been run rich on I've cleaned them off a few times lastly after I had it drivable out of boost AFRwise

[TimTurboZ]

This was a first time for a spike in boost to occur that I've witnessed, the MBC held 1.4bar and 1.2 before since I've had it (used from a friend)

[TimTurboZ]

Do you have ls2 coils? Sorry just getting back on here don't recall your setup, I Still had issues when I brought it down 0.30 I believe it was but now my tune is different

I have BCPR7ES-11 plugs

Just am sure I read ppl running a 1.1m gap ~0.47 but I'm unsure of there boost levels.

Maybe the spike were from it cutting up top.

I will regap the plugs when I wake up Ive been up all night it's 8:35am and I work at 3pm lol

Hope that possibly fixes it I do understand the gap was large and the plugs kept coming back to me as a problem in my mind.

[Yellow4g63]

The only thing you changed was the coil dwell since you only installed the coils?

[TimTurboZ]

The only thing you changed was the coil dwell since you only installed the coils?

Elaborate...

matt at Nistune said to leave the dwell duty vs Rpm. Table alone and just adjust dwell time

Want to tell me more?

Other adjustments vs a stock tune then yes I have made adjustments.

Oh 0.25gap didn't help

[USMCgetsome]

FUEL PUMP PROBLEMS!!!! Check your fuel pressure. When my walbro 255lph pump was on it's way to dying it would stall my engine on the way up the rpm. It would literally fall flat for 1-2 seconds then pull to the top slowly. Listen to pump when driving and keep an ear open for any WHIRRING noises or LOUD HUMMING.

[TimTurboZ]

Sorry I assumed some people knew my build or that my build thread is a few posts away.

Rebuilt motor (bottom end and head)
Wiseco forged pistons 8.5:1 CR
570cc r35 injectors
N62 Maf
Holset HY35 topmount (~3076)
Jgy Fuel rail
Aeromotive fpr
New ls2 coilpacks
Walbro 400 fuelpump
Nistune


I already had a weak walbro 255 and replaced it. Plus it will run too rich and then go lean

[Darius]

Sorry I assumed some people knew my build or that my build thread is a few posts away.

Rebuilt motor (bottom end and head)
Wiseco forged pistons 8.5:1 CR
570cc r35 injectors
N62 Maf
Holset HY35 topmount (~3076)
Jgy Fuel rail
Aeromotive fpr
New ls2 coilpacks
Walbro 400 fuelpump
Nistune


I already had a weak walbro 255 and replaced it. Plus it will run too rich and then go lean

Thanks for that. It helps summarize what we are dealing with.

Have you checked your fuel pressure? I see you have an aftermarket regulator.

How was your fuel map tuned? Did Matt just change the injector size in the tune and leave the fuel map itself alone, or did he fine tune that as well?

Is the closed-loop setting turned on or off? If on, the narrow band O2 sensor should be attempting to compensate for the rich condition. Do you have a narrow band on the exhaust?

[TimTurboZ]

Matt Brown at Nistune only looked at my tune I sent him.

My tuner I was using Matt Poole (used to run a shop called Driven Authority and worked on 300zx's mainly) made fuel map adjustments.

I only said I'd possibly try a stock fuel map because mine kept being too rich.
I did change them from stock when I started with a fresh tune.

I had the simulated o2 signal wire off the AEM uego. (Sorry didn't mention wideband) wired to the ecu O2 signal wire.
For a reason I can't recall we unhooked the wire (possibly he thought it was making negative effects on the car running).

It should run based off my tune tho right?

[Darius]

I'm not exactly sure how the nistune software works, but I know it is similar to the PowerFC. PFC has a setting to enable or disable O2 feedback, which is the narrow band O2 sensor signal. If your tune was off, you could enable that setting and it would allow you to drive the car until you had it tuned. You need to find out if that setting is an option on nistune and if it is, what is its status? That will be helpful for sure.

If O2 feedback is enabled and expecting a signal from your narrow band (or UEGO simulator) but isn't hooked up to the ECU, then I can see why it would be acting up.

Keep feeding us info. I think we are getting closer

[TimTurboZ]

There is an.option on some but not the NEO to enable.and.disable the o2 otherwise I have to max out a setting that causes the o2 signal to make the car cut to make it have no effect. I believe that's right I was reading at 2am about it and am.at work now.

It is looking for the signal currently it's not shut off how it's tuned now. I had major boost leaks when my tuner had me undo the o2 signal wire on some street driving to log my runs. Now that I have the car leak free I will rehook up the o2 signal and see if it helps

[Darius]

Yeah it should make a difference with it hooked up especially if it is expecting to see it. It would be like driving around with a bad O2 sensor. The ECU doesn't know what the actual AFR is because it doesn't have that signal so it is just dumping fuel in to make sure it is safe.

[TimTurboZ]

My email to Matt at Nistune:

Would my o2 signal wire not being hooked up cause a problem? Also I have no codes but if a knock sensor has the plug undone will it cause any cut? My connector broke so I have a butt connector attached to the wire and it slides over the knock sensor prong but it has come off before. I could try and ensure it has a better connection if that's a problem? And if it matters I did copy the fuel maps to the knock maps.

Matt:
Hi Tim
Not really. It just would not use O2 feedback. Reset your O2 trims in the software.
If knock sensor is not connected it wont cause a cut







So it just runs off what its tuned to run as I imagined.

[TimTurboZ]

I pulled up what settings are changed from stock on my nistune for anyone that has a clue lol

STOCK


My Tune


my tune part 2

[TimTurboZ]

the above fuel map was me trying to keep it from going rich


this was what it previously was at


Thanks for your replies!

[TimTurboZ]

More from Matt-

(The o2 signal) Its only used to hold closed loop and will adjust trims also.

If knock is unattached it will pull timing around the knock flag region of the timing map because there would be a fault code. But wont cause other issues like you are having

[Darius]

What is your base fuel pressure?

[TimTurboZ]

Was 40 psi I set it down to 38 because it would go rich. I'll take my hood off and put the dam fpr against my windshield to see if it works when boosting since I don't have a dyno handy.

It is a brand new fuel pump and fpr so I doubt these are the issues but I tend to have bad luck.

[TimTurboZ]

im going to try and just run my wastegate spring pressure and avoid possible issues with a bad MBC I forgot about that! it was spiking.

I just had my dwell above 5ms at idle so i lowered it down. a coil pack got quite hot and stopped working. none of my other 5old and 2new coils worked...i plugged the one that had stopped working back in and it worked. I read someone say 3.5 ms was ok so maybe I will drop the dwell time even more cant keep killing coilpacks.

[lexcrob]

I would probly call holley and ask them what they run for dwell and what not on their multiport efi systems. Might be fastest way to solve that stuff.


I read through the thread and there is too much going on to get somewhere.
Boost spikes...fuel map changes...different tunes...spark plug gap...coils defecting...

This kind of build is a bit out of my park.
Id stay on the track you are and hammer down your boost spike issue first. I would leave the spark plug gap at a constant and not mess with it. Spark plug gap doesn't really make a difference. The only goal is to open it up as big as it can jump the gap right?(then longevity and other factors come in) Id just gap them to what ever an lsx engine calls for as that's what coil your running and never touch em again.

As far as the tune stuff im not much help. Ive spoke with the local rep in TN about nistune and they are very informative on software end not much help tune wise. Maybe contact aem haltech or a respected rb tuner for quick answers there.


I don't know if that will help or not. Good luck sounds like it will go pretty good. Im curious what kind of numbers that holset puts down!

[TimTurboZ]

Just today a coil stopped working and interchanging it with another cylinders worked. I will now triple. Check my wiring around my tech but the coilpack harness is 100% correct they always have power at the connector just the coilpack stops working. 2 of my brand new ones appear to be dead (I tried them first before switching a coil from another cylinder) I will take pics to prove its right.

I tried stock dwell settings bit no real difference.

I tried a friends home made mbc it held at 0.7 and 0.9bar but it still goes to 10:1 if I keep increasing throttle and will cut.

My log runs I still show it at 27degrees then it shift to 7 so I changed my timing table to go to 17 where the lower #'s were (lowest was 13/14degrees max load)

I'm at work so typing fast I will post about the timing change results when I drive it home.

I love I can change my tune on my lunch break

[TimTurboZ]

after timing change its still running rich. it ran what seemed better but it still doesn't want to pull properly.

I may drive to a friends out of town to try his n62 maf and see that for sure my maf is not my problem. I plan to once again unwrap my coilpack harness and check that nothing is out of order, and all my grounds by my ecu are correct. I was sure everything was right but Im lost

MY VTC SOLENOID clicks when i rev from idle wasnt sure if thats normal seems not, I have to check but i believe my other head has the solenoid so I may swap it.

Also I run 91oct gas here in CA I really dont want to go e85.

also my vtc enable and cut is set ay 5400 on my nistune...thats stock i may just lower its since my car spools much sooner possibly an issue? I never thought it would of been an issue.

[TimTurboZ]

WASTEGATE WAS LEAKING after about 7/9psi when I performed a boost leak test...I cant recall if I tried soapy water on it before but today I definitely saw air bubbles. Must have been caused from the fire I had in the engine bay awhile back....no big deal lol

I will post up after I replace the WG

JUST TAKE ALL MY MONEY RB!!!!!