rb25det waterpump ?

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
ultraspeed707
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Nov 28, 2009 9:38 am
Car: s14 rb25det, s13 w/s14 blacktop

Post

is there any interchangeable waterpump for a rb25det? and is there a list of all interchangeable parts for rb25det? thanks


jrhdohc
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:34 am
Car: R32 GTR

Post

RB26 N1 is the upgraded version of normal RB25/26 pump.

Cjmartz2k
Posts: 1845
Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 1:39 pm
Car: Hunting for a '89 GTR now
Location: Okinawa, Japan

Post

It's not an "upgrade" for most daily driven cars. It actually flows less at a given rpm, it is just designed not to cavitate at 7k rpm+ like some of the insane circuit cars do for hours on end at a track. N1 water pump is NOT an uprgrade for a street car, it just costs more.
Modified by Cjmartz2k at 5:48 PM 11/28/2009

jrhdohc
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:34 am
Car: R32 GTR

Post

yes it is an upgrade. R34 Nur has N-1. it is a factory street car.

Cjmartz2k
Posts: 1845
Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 1:39 pm
Car: Hunting for a '89 GTR now
Location: Okinawa, Japan

Post

jrhdohc wrote:yes it is an upgrade. R34 Nur has N-1. it is a factory street car.
Is that what you are basing your argument on or do you actually know anything about the pump and what it does?

jrhdohc
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:34 am
Car: R32 GTR

Post

i'm not trying to argue. i'm just saying it is. you don't trust me so i'm telling you another source, Nissan.flow at idle is not as important as flow at speed...

ultraspeed707
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Nov 28, 2009 9:38 am
Car: s14 rb25det, s13 w/s14 blacktop

Post

so dose that mean i have to use a rb waterpump only? kinda hard to find one in vegas. mine is screaming everytime it starts up when cold

jrhdohc
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:34 am
Car: R32 GTR

Post

yes sir

Cjmartz2k
Posts: 1845
Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 1:39 pm
Car: Hunting for a '89 GTR now
Location: Okinawa, Japan

Post

jrhdohc wrote:i'm not trying to argue. i'm just saying it is. you don't trust me so i'm telling you another source, Nissan.flow at idle is not as important as flow at speed...
Unless you enjoy idling your car in traffic on a 90* day at 90% humidity with the a/c on and you have a 4" thick front mount blocking some airflow to the radiator. Ask me how I know.

ultraspeed707
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Nov 28, 2009 9:38 am
Car: s14 rb25det, s13 w/s14 blacktop

Post

ok ill see if i can find one on ebay or something.. but do you guys know if i can use a shifter out of a sr20? i dnt want to get shifter and mine is worn out

jrhdohc
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:34 am
Car: R32 GTR

Post

i have used one on for almost 10 years. first with stock radi. then with 53mm AL radi. now with 25mm AL radi. drive it in traffic all the time. oh and it has a big front mount and factory hood and plastic engine cover on the bottom.

like i said stock R34 Nur has one so it has been tested in all extremes by Nissan. it the car over heats it's not the water pump. might be old clogged radi.

please don't think i'm trying to argue and if i sound like a i have an attitude sorry. someone else said i had one... maybe i'm just tired or a jerk or something. not trying to be one.

Joe
Posts: 6511
Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 8:29 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Post

jrhdohc wrote:i'm not trying to argue. i'm just saying it is. you don't trust me so i'm telling you another source, Nissan.flow at idle is not as important as flow at speed...
says who?

you are wearing my patience thin.

since 99.5% of the cars on this board will NEVER see a track long enough to warrant use of that pump yes, flow below 3000rpm is FAR more important than flow at 6000+rpm

you are one of those people that thinks that just because its on a racecar that means its better for everyone right?


Cjmartz2k
Posts: 1845
Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 1:39 pm
Car: Hunting for a '89 GTR now
Location: Okinawa, Japan

Post

Joe, I can see you getting pissed, and for good reason, but PLEASE don't ban this kid. I'm having too much fun

Joe
Posts: 6511
Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 8:29 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Post

only for you.

jrhdohc
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:34 am
Car: R32 GTR

Post

Joe wrote:
says who?

you are wearing my patience thin.

since 99.5% of the cars on this board will NEVER see a track long enough to warrant use of that pump yes, flow below 3000rpm is FAR more important than flow at 6000+rpm

you are one of those people that thinks that just because its on a racecar that means its better for everyone right?
look i don't need to justify myself to you. it is what it is. better. you are too closed minded. it has led you down a path to ignorance.

Joe
Posts: 6511
Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 8:29 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Post

jrhdohc wrote:
look i don't need to justify myself to you. it is what it is. better. you are too closed minded. it has led you down a path to ignorance.
what are you talking about?!

how am i ignorant?

it is YOU who is the one who are ignorant. im not gonna sit here and type out my resume to some douche on the internet but im not the moderator of the RB forum because i lost a coin toss.

you wanted to prove that you know what your talking about and we are wrong, so do it.

for a primarily street driven car, why is a n1 pump better?

you keep saying we dont know what we are talking about so enlighten us? i look forward to hearing your magazine racer explanation to this.

jrhdohc
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:34 am
Car: R32 GTR

Post

the points have been made: less flow at idle and more flow in mid to high.

if the car is over heating at idle (even in 110 degree heat and 99.9% hum) then there are other issues. it's not the pump (assuming it's a good stock or good N-1).

have you or one of your friends gone from stock pump to N1 then over heated?

jrhdohc
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:34 am
Car: R32 GTR

Post

i guess what i'm saying the small difference in flow at idle should not put your cooling system over the edge... then the car will also be prone to over heating under high loads and other situations not related to engine rpm.

not sure if i'm getting it out right.

Cjmartz2k
Posts: 1845
Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 1:39 pm
Car: Hunting for a '89 GTR now
Location: Okinawa, Japan

Post

One of my friends with a daily driven 1000hp R32 GTR took off an N1 pump at the advice of some pretty heavy hitters back in Oki and it helped his overheating considerably. I also notice you mentioned you were still running your under engine tray as if that was hurting your cooling, when in fact it helps. I acts like a duct and keep the fan pulling air from in front of the car instead of from other places. There was an article done by some guys down under about it. Pretty interesting and surprising. They also blew the spacer on the back of the hood to vent better myth out of the water. It does worse.

You should keep in mind, most of the people on this board are running RB swapped S-chassis which don't usually allow enough room to run the factory clutch fan. E-fans don't flow anywhere near as much as a factory clutch fan. Also, Kanagawa Prefecture isn't near as warm as some other places.

jrhdohc
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:34 am
Car: R32 GTR

Post

it get pretty hot in the summer don't let the latitude fool you

i agree with the undertray but Mine's has done tests tells R32 owners to take it off.

one minute the arguement is most people don't gove over 3000rpm now we got 1000hp GTR in your friends garage. well thats cool good info to know.

jrhdohc
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:34 am
Car: R32 GTR

Post

how high does he need to rev to get 1000hp? just curious?i've got 2.8 and only go to 8500. but it's not a drag car or anything crazy. just street and circuit.

Cjmartz2k
Posts: 1845
Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 1:39 pm
Car: Hunting for a '89 GTR now
Location: Okinawa, Japan

Post

I think he's revving to 9k at least. It's got a T88GK on it right now, but he's planning on going Borg-Warner 400 something or other soon. It's a 2.6L still BTW. The reason I brought him up specifically as an example is because he does daily drive it with a/c and he has every conceivable cooling mod possible. He was still getting too hot, and he switched to the regular 26 pump from the N1 and it helped his problem. How much hp you make doesn't effect how your car behaves heating wise below 3krpm too much.

jrhdohc
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:34 am
Car: R32 GTR

Post

thanks for the info! i'll pass it on to anyone over here that starts to overheat. oddly N1 is just a giving and no thought but into it. guess after 100's of engines they just stopped worrying about it.

Yeah he’ll probably like switching way from t88 (of course I don’t know BW turbos I like twin set-ups). t88 at 10000rpm needs like 40-41psi. a better match is 32-33psi 12,000rpm (or 3.0l+33psi+9,000rpm). not even sure how he’s doing 1000hp at 9000(maybe NOS). Oh well not important.

kind of weird he was overheating... maybe his timing is not correct. he must know this but just a reminder. exhaust and water temps will increase from both too much timing and not enough. it's an inverted bell curve. check the low load timing. Also, check his fan. Stock clutch wears out easy (spins but outputs much less). Or if electric; fan’s CFM rating might be too low for his engine/radi set up. And make sure it's pushing/pulling the air in the correct direction. anyway not on topic and probably already looked into so i better stop rambling.

thanks again for the info


Return to “RB20DET / RB25DET / RB26DETT Forum”