rb25det transmission/shift issues/clutch

[240sxed]

Today I bled my newly swapped rb25 swap. After bleeding it for a while, bleeding from the dampner box and from the slave itself, we couldn't get the pedal to firm up as much as we would've liked, nor could we get it to return fully. When I tried to shift into first, it was hard to put in gear, but no grinding, same with reverse and second gear. When im fully depressed on the clutch, the car moves forward if its in first gear.

Im wondering, could it be the master cylinder ? I don't think its the slave cylinder b/c i bought a new one from mckinney to prevent this kind of thing from happening? Im going to try the one that came on the transmission tommorow.

After bleeding the thing a while, only 1/4-1/3 of a regular sized water bottle, the 1 dollar bottles. Typically when i bleed the clutch i coulda sworn almost half the bottle gets filled from bleeding? or maybe thats only the breaks? I don't see any leaks coming from any of the lines... could the masterclyinder still be bad?

Ive tried to search on it, but it seems like some other people have had similar issues, but im not quite sure if theres were only related to the trannies or to the throwout bearing used.

I've done many clutch jobs, know how to put on the TOB and grease the inside where it goes on the imput shaft...

specs:

z32 n/a ACT 6 puck heavy duty pressure platez31 thow out bearingpilot bearing that came with the z32 n/a kit.

valvoline 75-90, figured i'd flush it after about 1000 miles along with the oil, and put in some redline.

[dekand]

lucky for you i just bled my clutch!

first off, take the damper system completely out, its useless and youll never get it bled lol ... me and my dad tried for hours...

so take it off, and bend the line from the master cylinder around to connect directly to the rubber hose going to the slave cylinder. then jack up the car 2 feet or so in the air and bleed it, should only take 5 minutes now.

now as far as the shifting in the gears i dont know, mine was a little hard to get in first and 2nd and reverse when i first drove it around the block but the second time it got easier, i think its just from sitting up so long and not really having any transmission fluid circulated, at least thats what im hoping.

[kouki-gymkhana]

Yeah, back when I first changed my KA clutch I spent 3-4 hours trying to bleed it. Dekand's advice is right...eliminate the dampener box as it serves no useful purpose and only complicates your life. There are no ill effects from its removal. My RB25 transmission is a bit notchy but it's been sitting unused for the past 2 years and I've only put about 50 miles on the car since the swap. I've noticed that it's starting to feel better as time goes by though.

[BoostFab]

that's exactly what i had---bend the hard line from the master cylinder and bolt in direclty to the slave cylinder. it definately have a better pedal reponse.

[240sxed]

Just eliminated the box. NowI when I press the pedal, the slave doesn't move at all, the level doesn't go down at all. I had a friend pump it forever but it never got harder.

Im assuming that the master cylinder is shot. But... I will try bleeding it one more time, but the pedal never gets harder even if you keep pumping. If im not mistaken, even if there is some air in the system, after multiple pumps it should move the slave a little, it doesn't even move a MM. I've ordered one anyways, i figure its preventative if that isn't the problem.

[dekand]

i replaced my master cylinder before learning about the damper box mod... but i tried bleeding it with the new mc and got the same results, but yes it should move a little bit if any fluid is in there...

did you bleed it with the front end off the ground a few feet? thats what the service manual says iirc to help get the air out...

and yeah a new master cylinder is like 45$ (got mine at orielly) so it doesn't hurt to change it even if its not the problem.

[240sxed]

yep , does it matter how high, i mean its up ... enough for my fatass to get under =T