rb25det tomei oil orifice HELP

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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virus77
Posts: 1775
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 9:43 am
Car: 95 S14, 71 240z, 97 e320

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My friend is putting back his RB25 together and he asked me about the tomei oil orifice and I'm not sure if he needs it. Running a stock pump and redline with a built bottom end...pistons, bearings, rods. running ~ 400-450whp.... On tomei spec sheet it clearly states NOT to use with lash type motors, ONLY solid lifter type engines. The skyline down under website says otherwise via their PDF chart they made....

So do I takes tomei's word or some aussies.... please enlighten me.

SQUARED IN RED


Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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There are two differing schools of thought on the whole "over-oiling the head" topic. I won't get into that since it has been beaten like a dead horse.

What I will add is that I have had a blocked oil orifice and Tomei restrictor in my RB25 with stock lifters and it has worked fine for 3 years. So, it hasn't proven to be bad. But I don't think it is necessary in his case especially with stock redline and oil pump.

Either way, I think he is safe if he is running the motor as you described in your post.

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eh?
Posts: 1781
Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2004 2:26 pm

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Take tomei's advice and common sense. The hydraulic lifters need a good amount of oil to function.restrictors & extra oil drains= bad for hydro lifters.Only use something like that if you've got a pump that puts out a ton of volume.

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virus77
Posts: 1775
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 9:43 am
Car: 95 S14, 71 240z, 97 e320

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Honestly I've put like 10k miles on my motor with no orifice, including track events. My other friend with the RB s14 has like 4 track events with no restrictor and we both seem to be fine.

Now this third friend has had terrible luck in the past (three years cars not running) and some douchbag tuner recently told him he NEEEEDS to have restrictors because hes gonna spin rod bearings in two seconds blah, blah, blah. I personally think the guy is a POS because he was tuning my friends car on a dyno and the valve cover breather shot out a quart of oil and the guys like" oh your head is lifting or you blew a head gasket... get it fixed and well re-dyno".... My personal theory when the tragedy happened was (A) Lifting a head is not a joke, this isn't a d-series honda running 35 PSI (B) he blew the snot out of the stock pistons cuz he started tuning at 23 psi on a GT35 sized turbo and worked his way down to 16 which is a** backwards but my friend claimed this guy is a dyno guru and believed it was gasket failure. I was obviously right since he had a freaking hole in cylinder #2 when we opened her up but whatever..... (I know this was sorta offtopic but I've been wanting to rant about the whole thing since it happened)

For some reason my friend wants to take the guys advice STILL and I'm so sick of working on his car and not doing things MY way and trying to do what he wants. I told him to run 400whp originally on the stock block regardless of what PSI it might be, and it made 404whp at 15psi which I was happy with.(this was on a gt30r a week before the motor blowing but the turbo was used and died on the dyno which is when we ended up with a GT35ish sized journal bearing turbo but that's really not important info but I'm telling you the guy has bad luck LOL)

This all brings us to the present day where the motor is being rebuilt and I just want this car to be DONE once and for all and I told him he shouldn't run restrictors and he wants them... so I made this post. On another side note I personally tuned my own car and my other s14 buddies car on NISTUNE ecus and the blown motor guy didn't want me doing it because he wanted a "professional" to do it on his fabulous AEM EMS. I GUARANTEE if he had let me tune his car MY way on the ecu that I RECOMMEND his car would be running... this goes back to my rant but I just needed to vent guys... sorry.

Modified by virus77 at 10:13 PM 10/15/2009
Modified by virus77 at 10:14 PM 10/15/2009

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eh?
Posts: 1781
Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2004 2:26 pm

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I think we all have friends that are just the same lol. I just give up and let them do what they want. A properly baffled oil pan is a smarter idea..

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virus77
Posts: 1775
Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 9:43 am
Car: 95 S14, 71 240z, 97 e320

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Keep your mouth shut on that, if I mention an oil pan baffle he'll end up putting me on a hunt for part off the hubble telescope he heard was good for its heat transfer properties LOL

Cjmartz2k
Posts: 1845
Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 1:39 pm
Car: Hunting for a '89 GTR now
Location: Okinawa, Japan

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eh? wrote:I think we all have friends that are just the same lol. I just give up and let them do what they want. A properly baffled oil pan is a smarter idea..


Skip the tomei orifice. The skylinesaustralia guys will buy anything tomei/greddy/HKS/Apexi produces and swear you need if before you even idle your car or it'll blow up. Namebrand nutswingers. The reason they spin main/rod bearings is the baffling in the pan on 26's sucks a**, not oil getting stuck in the head.

synergy
Posts: 144
Joined: Sun Jun 07, 2009 3:59 am
Car: s14 rb25 s1

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The reason why over oiling in the head is bad for the 6th bearing is because too much oil in the head doesnt leave enough time for it to get back to the oil pan to get to the bearings. With that said if anyones taken apart a motor after it has sat for a year or two will know there was still oil on those bearings. I think add an extra quart to be safe and run it.

Cjmartz2k
Posts: 1845
Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 1:39 pm
Car: Hunting for a '89 GTR now
Location: Okinawa, Japan

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synergy wrote:The reason why over oiling in the head is bad for the 6th bearing is because too much oil in the head doesnt leave enough time for it to get back to the oil pan to get to the bearings.
Question, and I'm not trying to be a d!ck in the least. What are you basing this information from? Something you've read on a forum somewhere on the internetz?


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