Post by
OutToWinPAHC »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/outtowinpahc-u66900.html
Wed Nov 09, 2011 10:13 pm
Traded my LS6 240sx for a ECR33 with a RB25DET series 2 (swapped from Series 1). The old owner swapped in the following R33 engine with spec sheets and receipts for work. I am new to RB and there are certain issues I am addressing, but I wanted to know your opinions on the best solution.
As received
-ARP Head Studs
-Cometic Metal Head Gasket
-Wiseco Pistons .20 over
-Eagle Rods
-Custom Turbo Manifold by Element Racing in Utah ( equal length runners)
-Garrett 60 Trim T3 .63 A/R Turbo
-SS Oil Lines
-V 33mm external WasteGate with screamer pipe
-ISIS Intake Manifold (freddy / Greddy type)
-DeatschWerks side feed 550cc injector
-1G DSM BOV (atmospherpic)
-Custom 2.5 inch Intercooler piping
-4" Intercooler Core
-1999 WRX MAF (on boost side after intercooler)
-Greddy Turbo Timer
-A'pexi Power FC with hand commander
-FC Datalogit tuning software
Issues were that the entire wiring harness was hacked up. Since he converted from series 1 to series 2 he located a harness, but items were missing and he ended up making one from about 3 and the work was bad. I sourced a good harness from Pride Performance and swapped it out half way. I also noticed spliced wires is the lower harness and removed the intake manifold to see what was doing and found a mess there too. I am going to rewire this, then perform a wire tuck (since I need to lengthen the TPS and TPSW for the aftermarket intake manifold).
Questions
In discovery I have notice the throttle body coolant hoses have been removed and capped off. I assume that these should be connected back together? This is what I did with the old LS motor of mine.
The oil filter housing has a massive heat-sink with coolant lines in and out. My guess is that this is to maintain similar operating temps between the both. Is there a way to remove this heat-sink? I rather not heat my oil after it's heated unless there is a T-Stat built into that.
Broken knock sensor ( no biggie )
No ECU o2 sensor... my guess is this was tuned set MAP closed loop WHICH I WILL NOT KEEP. I ordered the sensor, but due to not having a factor manifold, down-pipe, or turbo I have no idea where the ideal location is. I assume the down pipe within 10 inches from the turbo exit. Can someone tell me the distance from factor and maybe post a photo of the the factory o2 bung?
WRX Maf sensor make no sense at all. Since I am stand alone I will convert to Q45/Z32 and recirculate the BOV.
Intake manifold bolts seems a bit short, not much bit on the threads, is there a list of lengths that is ideal for a greddy / freddy intake?
The throttle cables have an offset pull with the intake manifold swap, is there something to fix this. I can see future issues in this area if not.
The I will download a similar open loop base-map and start fresh and retune after a Q45 Throttle body
Wanted
Looking for a very good Series 2 coil pack harness, a bad series 2 MAF (weird I just want it to make something), AC compressor with brackets and bolts, and thats it for now.