RB25DET Pull/Write ups abound. For noobs and others.

[Kansei240sx]

Death and Rebirth ProjectThis is a write up for just really anyone that needs a refresh or something like that. Ill try to include more of an indepth detail about it for certain bolts and TQ specs later for the RB community.

Well as some of you know my car had the wrong transmission, and i a year ago wasnt knowledgeable enough to notice the two slight differences between what i have, ( Assuming its an RB25DE transmission rather than a RB25DET which has a different slave mount and shift plate angle. Flat on mine, compared to sloped down at the back on the RB25DET.

So i am pulling the engine, going through coolant line bugs, and all the other essentials and doing a write up to where EVERYTHING on the greddy intake manifold goes. For those of you that dont have a manual or get the japanese moonspeak version that you cant read.

So in four hours i got the stuff disconnected and motor out.

To make pulling a motor MAKE sure you pull the shifter out of the transmissoin to keep it from snagging, this makes it much easier to pull, and also make sure you drain the transmission fluid out of bottom so it doesnt spill out of the shifter hole once you've removed the shifter. The bottom of most nissan trannies you can either use a bigass Crescent wrench or an allen wrench on that bolt becuase its go another small drain nut with an allen head on the inside of it.

Now if you live in the midwest or where theres alot of bugs... TAPE STUFF UP.. .And so things dont get dust in it or scratched up ( paint ).

Heres a quick list of things to remember to disconnect in somewhat order to keep from making a mess. BATTERY/and or POWERLINES FIRSTEngine Wiring Harness ( this can be draped to the side as seen in the picture and or hanging out of the car till the motor is back out. You dont really need to pull the bottom one, just make sure when you're pulling the motor out, that its securely ziptied to the motor. Exhuast components after the turboIntakeFmic/Smic PipesAny Vacuum lines or gauges that might run off wires electronically that go to the interiorRadiator hoses/Radiator/Fan assemblyHeater HosesFuel linesPowersteering systemHoodDriveshaftSlave cylinder lineMotor mounts ( loosen top nuts, or whichever you think will make it easier. I just undid the top isolator nuts. ) transmission mounts

Take the Radiator out, Fans, anything that could be damaged in the path of taking the motor out.

Now that it is out, to take the transmission bolts off or anything requiring torque, its a ***** to do while its on the hoist, so get a wrench and a hammer and tap-knock it loose and bam, now you can work some more on it tommaro.

[crazylizard66]

hey, nice wirte-up. where are the heater hoses? i just got my 95 240 with an rb, and i knew the a/c didnt work, because he didnt have any lines fabbed up, but the heater doesnt blow warm air. the blower still runs fine, just doesnt change tempo when i switch the knob. thanks

[Kansei240sx]

Ill post that part here next.

[l0nestar]

Two questions,

1. Is the load-leveler really helpful for angling the motor in and out? (Is it worth the additional $40 or so for it?)

2. Where exactly did you mount the leveler to the block at?

Thanks!

[Darius]

1) Yes it helps immensely and is worth well over the $30-40 that you spend on it.

2) There are bolt holes at the rear of the block and on the metal bracket at the front of the block. Just run a bolt through the bracket with a couple hefty washers and a couple of short chains.

[l0nestar]

Excelent! Thanks Darius!

The leveler that I am looking at has two chains coming off of it with a tab and a bolt-hole. Will this help or hinder me? PS, where do you bolt-to on the KA-DE to extract it (with AT attached)? I'm used to pulling SBC's , dont want to mess up my KA-DE by pulling on the wrong area.. I was planning on using a log chain around the # 1 & 4 runners on the IM. Thanks again!

[Kansei240sx]

that will work lonestar, and yes... the load leveler made pulling the motor go in 3-5 minutes, it was extremely easy. On the KA24DE i put the chains on the 1st intake runner and 4th runner and the same for the exhuast.

On the RB25 i put one on the back of the motor on the side right where ground bolts go in and another on the lift point by the front passenger side of the motor up by the timing cover. I've got another update for today, but i need sleep, i've been up for 22 hours and i've gotta crash, school, work, and homework leaves not enough time for this stuff, but im working like hell on this motor becuase it deserves it.

[l0nestar]

Kansei,

Than you so much as well! Now go get some sleep! You remind me of when I was in college... (I graduated with a BS!) But it is worth it afterwords! :smile I'm thinking about pulling the motor this weekend, are there any guides for pulling the KA-DE ?(yeah, I know, search or research...) I have the FSM and it was somewhat scant in places.

From what I remember: loosen the Xmember, unbolt and seperate exhaust header (past O2 sensor), loosen trans mount, remove driveshaft, put small jack under trans, loosen motor mounts, start to lift motor. Finish removing motor, break for a beer I already have most-everything removed from the engine bay.

Anything else?Again, thanks alot!

[l0nestar]

I found some instructions from PalmerWMD, but wondered if you had any input as well. Thanks!

l0nestar.

[Kansei240sx]

Ok

DAY 2

Ill explain where hoses and such go.

Ok, with this one there is something wrong but for a reason, You see the hose at the top thats going from the TURBO COOLANT RETURN LINE (circled RED )? INTO THE FEED LINE FROM THE BLOCK ? I've seen this mistake made several times with the installation of the manifold, this will no doubt cause overheating issue ESPECIALLY in the back of the motor where gurgling of the heater hoses and built up pressure ensues everything back there, SO MAKE SURE follow what i did in the next two pictures.

Anyhow the RED line is obviously the feed line to the heater core which goes to the TOP port of the heater core on thefirewall, and the bottom BLUE hose goes to the return line which is ONE of the steel tubes that is not connected to the underside of the intake manifold.

I got a high pressure hose just becuase it was laying around and abundant. and i routed it too ( see next picture )HERE, the coolant return nipple, doing this eliminates use of the coolant bleeder valve, and another reason i choose not to fab something up and use it, is becuase im not running coolant lines to my throttle body. Now, MINUS 4 AND 5, the first three can be arranged or used for whatever you want, im just showing you how I HOOKED it up becuase those three are mainly for Accessories or whatever vacuum/boost sensitive object needs a source.

1. Boost Gauge

2. Fuel Pressure Regulator

3. Blow off valve

4. PCV Vavle

5. Brake booster line

Here is a basic diagram of where the AIC/Air regulator setup hooks up and how air is flown in at idle/load NOW, the big hose close to the throttle body, make sure you hook that into your FMIC Pipes before the throttle body. Here is an underside shot picture of where the hoses line up and connect. You can actually use the stock hoses and cut them to fit on your current manifold, EXCEPT for the long hose that you see run along the bottom of the manifold, i used the stock heater hose that came off the motor and cleaned it out with a pipe cleaner so it didnt get junk in the system. The hose plugs in right under the 5th Intake runner ( Obviously the green highlighted hose )