Post by
ItzGenX »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/itzgenx-u1074.html
Tue Feb 22, 2011 3:54 pm
The problem with the 25 pan is that it's stamped sheet steel with no internal mounting points etc like a cast aluminum 26 sump (with bolted in baffles). You can't just take a kit for one sump and make it work for another in this case. By the time you modded and fabbed enough for a 26 baffle system to work in it, the kit would be heavily modded. The best way is just to make your own baffling system out of sheet steel and weld it into the pan.
I knew a road racing buddy in Dallas that told me about his oil starvation problems with his RB25 on hard corners and low speed hard acceleration causing his oil gauge to bounce between 20-80psi. What he ended up doing was buy some 20 gauge sheet metal and welded up a square leaving the tops and bottoms open. He then used 4 cabinet door hinges with flaps welded to them. The bottom of the square (open end) has a rectangle cut out a hair larger than the flap. Now the flapped hinges are welded into the square with the flaps being able to swing into the square, but they can't swing out of the square. After this was done, he puts the square into the pan with the flaps on the bottom and tack welds the corners into the pan. The oil pickup will reside inside of the square when the pan is installed, and the flaps are trap doors that let oil into the square with no escape route. It was enough to fix his oil starvation problems, but he went overboard the following month and removed the pan again to weld on side sump extensions (1qt per side) from his extra sheet metal. The 4' x 4' of 20 gauge steel I picked up for him was only $16 from a local metal supplier, and he only went through half of it.